CTB16PC doesn't reset as expected

[WhitePlainsNY]

I have one CTB16PC V2 controller with 06 as its ID that has one channel (number 8) that doesn't turn off. The channel outputs 54 volts whether the data cables are plugged in or not. I've power cycled the controller with no change. I tried to reset the board by disconnecting both A/C cables and the data cables and then removed the J0 pin jumper that normally sits in the 2nd position from the top. I reconnected both power cables and the red LED flashes rapidly. After about 30 seconds, I disconnect the power and replace the A/C cables. I connect only one data cable that connects to a laptop. Running the Hardware Utility with the Show disabled, I search for the controller and it finds one, 06. I expect it to show 01 or am I wrong? Channel 08 still outputs 54 volts. I'm almost resigned that the triac will need to be replaced but the reset error makes me holdout for hope. Suggestions anyone?

Thanks,

Chuck

Edited December 8, 2012 by WhitePlainsNY

[LOR Staff]

You are wrong. The reset typically will not change the unit number.

[WhitePlainsNY]

Bummer! Then it must be a triac related issue. I even tried a hair dryer to eliminate any moisture and placing a demanding load on the channel with no change.

Thanks!

[Max-Paul]

Yep, I agree, must be a triac issue like at least one half of it is shorted on at all times. Seeing how 54 volts is about one half of of wall voltage.

[HiTechLights]

You are wrong. The reset typically will not change the unit number.

 

Mike I'm troubleshooting a CTB16PCg3 controller right now, and was doing a reset per the documentation at: http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/CTB16PCg3_UserMan_Web.pdf  where is specifically states on page 9 the following:

 

Reset resets everything.

The Unit ID reverts to 01,

all channels are set to

the Standard dimming curve

and downloaded dimming curves are deleted.

 

Please update the manual if this is incorrect.  I've reset this controller 5x already and the Unit ID doesn't change. I was thinking there was an issue, after your post apparently not.

 

---Michael

[LOR Staff]

No problem.  Let me point the firmware guy and the documentation folks at that and see what/where the disconnect is.  

[HiTechLights]

No problem.  Let me point the firmware guy and the documentation folks at that and see what/where the disconnect is.

While you are at it, we just found another doc error last night. In the docs: 160xWg3  and I would think in all of the related doc and I would think in all of the related doc's as well. In the Hex to Dec Conversion table (page 46-47), it shows 8E=142 and then says 9F=143. However 8F=143. Later on, it does show again that 9F=159 (which is correct).

---Michael

Edited October 19, 2013 by LORAdmin
Admin edit to fix links.

[a31ford]

For What it's worth, the MOC type Opto-coupler, Can (and has for me) been an issue, with the exact problem you are talking about (Half voltage), yes it can be the Triac, but it can be the opto as well, 

 

If the opto is toast on one side of the AC cycle (or the Triac even) you will get the 54 volt thing,

 

TO test remove the opto (or cut the trigger trace to the triac) if the channel goes dead, then it's the opto (MOC 6 pin Chip for that channel), if it is still lit, then it's the triac.

 

to resolder the trace, use a fine wire (or a couple strands out of a larger multi-strand cable to re-connect the trace) follow the original trace and solder in place, use hot glue or conformal coating to protect the new connection.

 

Greg