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where Can I Buy 20 Amp Fast acting Fuses


Sabre03

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Upgrading a couple of my controllers to 20 amps per side. Where Do I buy the fuses? are they the same as fast act microwave fuses?

Thanks

Edited by Sabre03
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Upgrading a couple of my controllers to 20 amps per side. Where Do I buy the fuses? are they the same as fast act microwave fuses?

Thanks

Yes they are the same as a Microwave.

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Specify 20A (or 15A) when ordering (great price but will take 2-4 weeks to arrive since on the slow boat from China):

http://www.ebay.com/...=item564d455ae6

20A (arrive in 2-6 days):

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3f1ac29137

15A ones (arrive in 2-6 days):

http://www.ebay.com/...25526787&_rdc=1

I bought the last 2 previously and was pleased--arrived quick.

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Specify 20A (or 15A) when ordering (great price but will take 2-4 weeks to arrive since on the slow boat from China):

I bought the last 2 previously and was pleased--arrived quick.

Or...

Just go to your local hardware store (Lowe's, HomeDepot) and buy some.

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Light O Rama recommend a ceramic fuse, and there is a difference in the way the fuse acts between a glass fuse and a ceramic fuse. what has your experience been using a glass fuse? or is everyone using ceramic

Edited by Sabre03
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that's what I'm going to do, don't need to take any chances. I picked up some 20 amp ceramic microwave fuses from Home Depot this will take care of my immediate need and I will order replacements. the links posted above say agc 20 amp, the ceramic microwave fuses I bought this morning say abc 20 amp. which is correct

Edited by Sabre03
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True but one is at about the same price as 20 of them online.

True. Just providing a local source for folks needing them now.

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I figured it out ABC is fast acting ceramic fuse agc is fast acting glass fuse

Edited by Sabre03
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Light O Rama recommend a ceramic fuse, and there is a difference in the way the fuse acts between a glass fuse and a ceramic fuse. what has your experience been using a glass fuse? or is everyone using ceramic

Overlooked your last question.

For me, I've used both glass and ceramic and didn't see any difference in performance between the two.

BUT... here is more in depth info about each type.

In a glass fuse, the element is visible, and this makes inspection easy, while a ceramic fuse is opaque. A glass fuse has a low breaking or rupturing capacity. What this means is that the fuse element melts when there is a high current or voltage. It is therefore not suitable for appliancesicon1.png and equipments that draw a lot of current. Ceramic fuses, on the other hand, have a high breaking or rupturing capacity and are suitable for high current and voltage circuits. Some ceramic HRC (high rupturing capacity) fuses can safely interrupt upto 300,000 amperes of current, while normal glass fuses have a much lower capacity, sometimes as low as only 15 amperes.

Glass fuses have a low thermal stability and shatter in high-heat conditions. Ceramic fuses, on the other hand, can withstand high temperatures and are more thermally stable.

Ceramic fuses, unlike glass fuses, are also often filled with a filler like sand to prevent the formation of a conductive film. When there is a short circuit, the fuse element melts and vaporizes. It deposits on the inside of the barrel or body as a film. In a glass fuse, the body continues to get heated and the film begins to conduct electricity, thus rendering the fuse inefficient. The sand in a ceramic fuse, however, absorbs the heat energy and prevents the fuse from heating and therefore conducting.

Edited by Santas Helper
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Glass fuses have a low thermal stability and shatter in high-heat conditions. Ceramic fuses, on the other hand, can withstand high temperatures and are more thermally stable.

Another option, using a short length of copper tubing, doesn't have any of these problems. ;)

(Yes, I'm just kidding!)

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Shockingly I don't know the answer to the following. How do you tell if a ceramic fuse is still good?

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Shockingly I don't know the answer to the following. How do you tell if a ceramic fuse is still good?

Test it with a multimeter.

Instructions


    • 1
      Always make sure there is no power going to the fuse you wish to test. If it is an appliance, make sure it is unplugged before you go further. If it's a fuse in your home wiring, it's safer to turn the power off in case there is a short in the fuse box. Blown fuses mean something has gone wrong, and caution is warranted.
    • 2
      Remove the fuse, using your fuse puller. If the fuse is a screw-in type, simply unscrew the fuse. Place the fuse on a table with good lighting.
    • 3
      Plug in the red and white wires to your volt-ohm meter as per manufacturers instructions, and set the volt-ohm meter to continuity or ohms, depending on manufacturer guidelines. Touch the end probes of the wires together and look at the reading on the volt-ohm meter. (Do not touch the metal parts of the probe with your fingers, as your body will conduct the electricity, which can give a false reading). The needle on your analog display should give a reading of zero. A digital display will display the continuity symbol, or "0.00" . Some will beep when continuity is achieved. Once you know your tester is working properly you can test the fuse.
    • 4
      Touch the red probe to one end cap of a tubular fuse. Touch the other end cap of the fuse with the black probe. Check your meter. If the needle does not point to zero (analog) or show "OL" (over limit) on a digital unit, then the fuse is blown. Test a screw-in fuse by touching the red probe to the center contact at the bottom of the fuse and the black probe to the screw section of the fuse. Check your meter for continuity using the guidelines above. Touch the red probe to one of tab on a car fuse and the black probe to the other tab and check the reading on the meter for continuity.

[*]Or if your electrically experienced, check for voltage on each end of the fuse (120vac) but beware, live electricity is needed for this test. You should get the same voltage on each end.

Edited by Santas Helper
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Another option, using a short length of copper tubing, doesn't have any of these problems. ;)

(Yes, I'm just kidding!)

Steven, I've done that (when I was younger and not as wise). B)

BUT do "not" recomend it for safety reasons obviously.

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Light O Rama recommend a ceramic fuse, and there is a difference in the way the fuse acts between a glass fuse and a ceramic fuse. what has your experience been using a glass fuse? or is everyone using ceramic

I figured it out ABC is fast acting ceramic fuse agc is fast acting glass fuse

The above ebay links for fuses are definitely ceramic fuses, as the descriptions clearly say (and as I have experienced from purchasing). You definitely should ONLY use CERAMIC fuses in your controllers.

Edited by Surfing4Dough
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  • 1 month later...

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