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What to look for/ask when buying used LOR controllers...


Daryl Hurd

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I have seen a few used LOR controllers for sale on this board and other places like ebay and even at the NW ClAP conference. I was hesitant to buy something used. But it did make me wonder, if I find the right price.. I might be willing..

So with that said, what are the things to stay away from when buying a used LOR?

Does the generation of the unit matter?

Does being homebuilt matter?

Beyond looking at the board and looking for burned chips or bubbling. Is there any hint of one to stay away from?

-Daryl

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Few thoughts...

Being homebuilt isn't something that would make me steer clear of one, but I would ask for some assurance that all channels work, or at minimum, the right to return if the unit is not 100%. And just looking at the board is not necessarily going to show you if you have a bad triac or the board isn't 100%.

If you can see the unit in person, I'd ask for a demo of all channels, and verify it works. Take it for a test drive, so to speak.

Would also find out how they housed the unit when it was outdoors in their display.

I'd also check the seller out on the various decorating boards. If they seem to be someone you can't find anywhere, that would raise a bit of a red flag for me..maybe not a deal breaker, but would raise concern. And even then, being prominent and active on various decorating boards won't guarantee they are the kind of ethical moral person you want to do business with.

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I have bought several used controllers via this venue without any ill effects. Could have been lucky or I just found some good people out there!

Thanks to those that do sell there equipment honestly!

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Bought my very first controller used as well, it is a V1 series board and it's still going strong. And I believe when I purchased it the person I got it from said it was a kit they assembled. Only issue I had with it is one of the power tabs apparently was missed and not soldered in that the white wire was attached to, amazing that the unit WORKED off that very unsoldered tab for almost 2 years before it quit making contact with the board, unit wouldn't power up. So I moved the wire to a good soldered tab, and still going strong with no problems.

Point is, it might work fine during the demo phase, might even work fine for a year or more, but something could crop up eventually to make you think, now why isn't this thing working?

And even if something looks soldered from the top of the board, if you can't see the backside, you don't know if there is enough solder to hold the component and make the proper connection.

Most of us aren't going to have the person take the board apart just to see the "backside" if already assembled. Could be that the Florida sun is what helped that one tab to unsolder, but could only happen if the part was just tacked in place and not fully soldered in.

Having worked in the electronics industry, I have seen this happen, sometimes it's caused by heat, sometimes it's caused by a combination of cold and heat, especially in Florida where you can have a freezing cold temp one day and then be in the 80-90's the next!

Just some of things I've experienced with electronics equipment. Your climate and mileage may differ.

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Price would be something I would check!
I see guys selling a used controller for almost the same price as a new full priced one from LOR, even less if you wait for the sales.

I would sooner pay a few dollars more for something that is brand new verse something that is a few year old. If something goes wrong LOR will make it right.

Don't get me wrong I have bought used, $165 each for two delivered to my house, so I saved on delivery and a bit on each. I figured I can get a controller for $180 during the sale plus about $20 for shipping is about $200 so why pay any more for a used one?

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