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Do I need to send a controller back for repair?


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Okay, don't know if this will need to go back to LOR for repair or testing to see what's wrong.

Pulled out all 5 of my controllers to start running tests and sequence some songs for Halloween 2012, well controller 1-3 worked, and 5 worked (ch 5 on controller 3 is on, I just haven't repaired that with a new Triac I got from LOR yet).

But the main issue is Controller #04, channels 9-16 work just fine, but channels 1-8 I can't get any lights or anything to work on that side of the controller, I pulled the fuse, the fuse is good, the controller shows power getting to the board (steady RED LED when Hardware Utility or Sequence Editor is in operation). This is a CTB16PC V1 controller, the firmware is updated to the latest version for this board.

I have also checked all wiring connections to the dongles, but they were all working prior to my packing the controllers away for our move and just got to unpacking them to do some work and testing. That's when I found controller #04 channels 1-8 are no longer functional.

Any other ideas what I may need to check for to see why this controller is not getting power to dongles 1-8? Or am I going to need to ship this one back to LOR for repair? This is one I purchased used some time ago and never had a problem with it until now.

Thanks for any help or insight on what I may be able to do to get this controller working again at 100%.



[align=center]{Glad to see the "EDIT" button has returned!}[/align]

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Orville wrote:

. . . the main issue is Controller #04, channels 9-16 work just fine, but channels 1-8 I can't get any lights or anything to work on that side of the controller, I pulled the fuse, the fuse is good, the controller shows power getting to the board (steady RED LED when Hardware Utility or Sequence Editor is in operation). . .

That is not quite correct. The electronics on the board are powered off the fuse that controls channels 9-16. As you have checked the fuse for channels 1-8, do you have a voltmeter that you can use to prove you have the supply on both sides of the "channels 1-8" fuse? That would be a good starting point.

Regards,

Alan C.
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Alan C wrote:

Orville wrote:
. . . the main issue is Controller #04, channels 9-16 work just fine, but channels 1-8 I can't get any lights or anything to work on that side of the controller, I pulled the fuse, the fuse is good, the controller shows power getting to the board (steady RED LED when Hardware Utility or Sequence Editor is in operation). . .

That is not quite correct. The electronics on the board are powered off the fuse that controls channels 9-16. As you have checked the fuse for channels 1-8, do you have a voltmeter that you can use to prove you have the supply on both sides of the "channels 1-8" fuse? That would be a good starting point.

Regards,

Alan C.


I checked both fuses, both tested good, even swapped them out of a working controller to see if there may have been a problem with the fuses. Didn't find any bad fuses, voltmeter {set on continuity} with the fuses out of their holders tested good.

So I don't know what else could create the issue. I figured it was probably {was hoping it would be} a simple fuse issue, but doesn't appear to be.
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evan.a wrote:

Orville wrote:
{Glad to see the "EDIT" button has returned!}

just be sure not to share how you got the program. Its for the beta and the elite.

Not to spoil any April Fools Day fun, but the Edit functionality should be back on for all members. It is not in Beta, nor for the elite.
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Orville, with power applied to the board. And using your volt meter. Can you get voltage to both sides of the fuse holders? As mentioned, power to make the LED light up is from the 9-16 side. So this proves that, that side is working. Now you have to use a volt meter to prove your getting power to the 1-8 side. Please run this test for us. Thanks

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[align=center]CONTROLLER #04 ISSUE: PROBLEM RESOLVED![/align]

[align=left]

Wasn't a fuse issue, I opened the controller again and started looking at the connections to the board via the spade connections. Apparently one of the spade terminals was not soldered in very well {or at all}! The second power cord I found the neutral (white wire) was NOT connected to the board, pulled it up and the spade terminal was lodged inside the female connector, pulled the spade out of the connector, re-attached the power cord to another neutral and now the controller is working perfectly.

I'm amazed that I have been using this controller for two years without any issues, but there is absolutely no solder on the spade connector that was mounted to the board!:shock:

So controller #04 is now back in service!


[/align]

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