Guest guest Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 grandlakedad wrote: Hope this image helps explain my testing procedure. Lines B and C should not have continuity, Line A should have continuity. I refer to the optoisolator's as MOC's less typing and yes they are the white IC's. Another note all components can be bought from Mouser. I also buy sockets for ALL of the IC's so they are quick and simple to replace. Sockets for the resistor networks are also available.How often have you seen an opto truly fail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxdwg Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 don: if this is my problem, i have 6 channels (across 4 controllers) that are acting this way now... the lights (LED's) come on ever so slightly. i know that last year i did in fact have a stuck triac on a different controller and that one, the channel was on at about 80%... these seem to only be about 5% to 10% ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 My point was/is, optos just don't fail that often. I think if you took a poll, you'd see better than 95% of these kinds of issues, assuming it truly is a hardware issue, is a triac.I'd also be resetting the controller before undertaking any other troubleshooting.Just my humble opinion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxdwg Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 no problem, i need all the opinons i can get at this point. when you say reset the controller, what all should i do? i have removed power to the controller. and powered back up both with it connected to the network and by itself. seems to me more like a voltage leak or something. some nights there are no lights left on at all, others they are very faint.i read an old post that talked about resetting the unit to 00, however the HU will not allow me to do that. it tells me to select something between 01 and F0 ...-troy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 see attached for reset instructions, and other good t'shooting info. Attached files Kit_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandlakedad Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I do agree with Don FL that probably 95% of the time it is a triac. I think I have seen only a couple of the optoisolators that have gone bad including one a month ago. Also in my original post I made a mistake saying continuity between the center pin of the MOC and resistor is normal and the right pin should not have continuity to the resistor. I have them backwards, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxdwg Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 ok, so i tried a reset on my controller, and i dont think its resetting. when i remove the jumper from j0, (looks like its on the second set of pins) and then power up the controller, the red led flashes really fast, and never stops.so i then powered off the controller, and put the jumper back on, and immediately my stuck channel came back on (around 5% to 10% power) , and the unit id is still 0C, so it didnt reset to 01... that means the entire controller DID NOT reset, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 No, not correct.The fast flash is normal.Unit ID will stay as is.Is the channel on without any connection to the network? Acts that way with an incandescent string attached (want to eliminate a LED/snubber issue)?Sounds like you had a bad triac... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxdwg Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 i have tried a snubber with 47K resistor, but have not tried incan lights. so i will try a string of those tomorrow on the next reboot/test. (hopefully i will have some time to swap out the controller and i will work on it inside. thanks for your help in troubleshooting.edit: and yes, on with NO connection to the LOR network. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 ok, I got my Triac removed. Not I'm trying to get the new one in the three holes, and its almost like the three pins on the triac are too large in diameter. and will not fit in the holes. Do you make a filing tool, to either file down the pins? Or open up the holes a little more on the board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Sounds like you need to clean up the excess solder from the triac removal. Do you have either solder wick or a "solder sucker" tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yukon Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Same issue here one channel stuck in the on position with a new controller I bought this year. Channel was dim for some time then eventually shut off....I'll have to watch it tonight and see what happens.Is there any issue with Disabling a show immediately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxdwg Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 no, disable immediately does just that... stops right now... gracefully allows the song to finish and then shutsdown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yukon Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Ok cool, wanted to be sure my stuck channel had nothing to do with that....thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlernstrom Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 We just blew a triac today. We plugged a homemade extension cord (I didn't make it...) into our LOR controller. The vampire plug was defective and had both prongs on the same side, effectively shorting out the wire. Killed the triac, then blew the ceramic fuse. Now I have a channel stuck on as described above. Placed an order with Mouser for replacement triacs. Will solder it on as soon as it arrives... hopefully before the show starts on Friday night! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankp123 Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfR34vhTMk0&feature=c4-overview&list=UUo-cfI-GCIUkVs7z6OWGYewDealing with about 24 channels stuck on right now. I have over 25 controllers and have been swapping out open channels for years, to get the bad channels out of the show. Some older controllers 6 years old and newer ones 2 years old. Some have 3 bad channels some just one. This has been a major cause of wasted time and frustration over the years.I would really like to see a Video of how to change out a triac to see if this is something that I can handle.To send them in for repair will take about 3 weeks, as I have done before.I can't seem to find any type of Video showing the repair of a Triac, If anyone know of one please let me know.If I tackle it myself I will make a video of it and post. Hank P . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 If you can unsolder and solder with fair efficiency it is just three leads to deal with. Should take you about 5 min per triac if you know which are bad. If you can't unsolder then you can mess up the board. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankp123 Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Help desk folks are sending me the triacs - hope we can fix them without unhooking all leads to the boards (outputs) Do you know if it can be replaced in such a manner ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyT Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Help desk folks are sending me the triacs - hope we can fix them without unhooking all leads to the boards (outputs) Do you know if it can be replaced in such a manner ?Not how I would do it. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace the triac itself, but it takes well over a half hour to pull the board remove the heatsink and put it all back together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankp123 Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 ok I have learned not to fix my own boards, the thing caught fire when I plugged it in. But ya got to love the light o rama folks, for getting me up and running so fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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