DMONK Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 My power stake was only suppling 46 volts to my controller now its dead, all fuses check ok. Could low voltage cause this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris waller Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Shure can did the power stake lose a neutralLow voltage and high voltage don't play nice on pc bordsHave you pluged it into another plug to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 I brought it in the house 120 volts on both sides of the fuses. pulled board out and check solder joints all look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 DMONK wrote:My power stake was only suppling 46 volts to my controller now its dead, all fuses check ok. Could low voltage cause this problem?The controller will not work on 46 volts.Trouble shoot the power stake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 I did replace the power stake, but i was hoping to find out if thats what took out the controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Apparently so, if it doesn't work now...Its completely dead? No flashing LED?I'll ask the obvious, just to be safe...the board did work before you plugged it into your messed up power stake, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 It was a brand new controller that was tested in the house worked fine, then i set up the show and tested the lights worked fine, then when i started the show it worked for about 5 minutes then died. I then brought it back in the house to check it out and could not find the problem. Thinking it was a defective controller i contacted lor and they are going to take care of it. So then i put a different controller in its place and it worked for about 1 hour then it died. Thats when i started checking voltage and found the problem. Thanks for all your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ Hvasta Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 "uh, Doc, it hurts when I bend my fingers backward..." "Well, then, dont do that!!" Have you retested the second controller inside, on a known, good, power supply or is LOR going to replace the two controllers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis p Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 whats the max amp draw on the power stake mute point now tho sounds like a job for the PPPhttp://forums.lightorama.com/view_topic.php?id=27421&forum_id=80&highlight=portable+power+panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ Hvasta Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Not to mention the Kill-O-Watt tester Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris waller Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 most power stakes are rated at 13 amps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 I did test the second controller in the house and got the same results. lor is sending two new boards, should be hear next Tuesday. I did replace power stake and all voltage looks good. Show is running at 75% until i get the new boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I would take a ohm meter and check the continuity of the primary windings on the transformer. As voltage drops, current usually increases. I dont think that the primary of the transformer (or the secondary) is fused and so the windings can burn open if the current goes up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 I know this is a bit late but... the transformer will drop in voltage on the secondary equal to the winding ratio x the input voltage. Since he didn't exceed the V/H ratio and I would imagine the LOR controllers have 78xx regulators.. the chances are that he didn't blow up too much in the power supply section. With 48volts at the input I would imagine that was not enough VDC to actually run the thing..I would be curious to find out what happened to the controller boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 What do you mean 120 volts on both sides of the fuse??.. do you mean with reference to neutral or did you measure across the fuse? If you measured across the fuse you have a blown fuse. You should get close to zero volts drop across the fuse but 120vac when measured to neutral or course.I only ask because I have seen people make that mistake when in a rush to figure something out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Plasma,Not sure about transformers. But I do know on motors, that when the voltage drops, the Current rises and blows the windings on the motor. Do you know what a transformers current does when the primary voltage drops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Hi Max,Motor and xfmr act differently. A motor until it reaches sync will draw many times it's FLA. If is slows down due to voltage, and you keep the freq the constant, it will slip too far out of sync and act just as it does after it comes out of locked rotor condition and before it reaches sync speed.Transformer will pretty much act linear as long as you maintain freq and the volts go down and not up over it's rating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 I did check from neutral to one side of fuse and neutral to the other side of fuse. I have not done any more test because lor is sending new boards and im afraid i would do more harm than good to me or the controler.:shock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 First good on ya for fessing up about the voltage thing..Second, LOR really stepped up to the plate to replace those boards. That does not appear to be a manufacturing defect and they really are not liable to do so, but it appears they did anyway.IMHO this type of thing shows that LOR is a good company with great customer service. This is my first year using LOR and after reading stories like this I am glad I jumped on board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMONK Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Yes LOR is a great company and the customer service is fantastic. Evan with the shortage of parts they still were able to send out new boards when they really did not have to. I already have a list of stuff to buy for next year. Thank you LOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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