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Controller died


DMONK
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DMONK wrote:

My power stake was only suppling 46 volts to my controller now its dead, all fuses check ok. Could low voltage cause this problem?


The controller will not work on 46 volts.

Trouble shoot the power stake.
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Apparently so, if it doesn't work now...:D

Its completely dead? No flashing LED?

I'll ask the obvious, just to be safe...the board did work before you plugged it into your messed up power stake, right?

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It was a brand new controller that was tested in the house worked fine, then i set up the show and tested the lights worked fine, then when i started the show it worked for about 5 minutes then died. I then brought it back in the house to check it out and could not find the problem. Thinking it was a defective controller i contacted lor and they are going to take care of it. So then i put a different controller in its place and it worked for about 1 hour then it died. Thats when i started checking voltage and found the problem. Thanks for all your help

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I did test the second controller in the house and got the same results. lor is sending two new boards, should be hear next Tuesday. I did replace power stake and all voltage looks good. Show is running at 75% until i get the new boards.

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I would take a ohm meter and check the continuity of the primary windings on the transformer. As voltage drops, current usually increases. I dont think that the primary of the transformer (or the secondary) is fused and so the windings can burn open if the current goes up.

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I know this is a bit late but... the transformer will drop in voltage on the secondary equal to the winding ratio x the input voltage. Since he didn't exceed the V/H ratio and I would imagine the LOR controllers have 78xx regulators.. the chances are that he didn't blow up too much in the power supply section. With 48volts at the input I would imagine that was not enough VDC to actually run the thing..

I would be curious to find out what happened to the controller boards.

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What do you mean 120 volts on both sides of the fuse??.. do you mean with reference to neutral or did you measure across the fuse? If you measured across the fuse you have a blown fuse. You should get close to zero volts drop across the fuse but 120vac when measured to neutral or course.

I only ask because I have seen people make that mistake when in a rush to figure something out.

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Hi Max,

Motor and xfmr act differently. A motor until it reaches sync will draw many times it's FLA. If is slows down due to voltage, and you keep the freq the constant, it will slip too far out of sync and act just as it does after it comes out of locked rotor condition and before it reaches sync speed.

Transformer will pretty much act linear as long as you maintain freq and the volts go down and not up over it's rating.

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I did check from neutral to one side of fuse and neutral to the other side of fuse. I have not done any more test because lor is sending new boards and im afraid i would do more harm than good to me or the controler.:shock:

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First good on ya for fessing up about the voltage thing..

Second, LOR really stepped up to the plate to replace those boards. That does not appear to be a manufacturing defect and they really are not liable to do so, but it appears they did anyway.

IMHO this type of thing shows that LOR is a good company with great customer service. This is my first year using LOR and after reading stories like this I am glad I jumped on board.

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Yes LOR is a great company and the customer service is fantastic. Evan with the shortage of parts they still were able to send out new boards when they really did not have to. I already have a list of stuff to buy for next year. Thank you LOR

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