Mike Cole Posted November 11, 2011 Posted November 11, 2011 I was out last night doing some testing and watching some songs in my show and saw that one of my PC controllers was intermittently firing on channels 1-8. It would run fine for a song or two, then 1-8 would not respond. Then it would be fine again. I removed the controller and hooked it up inside and ran the hardware utility and again had the same results, sometimes bank 1-8 worked and sometimes not. Did a reset on the controller, but still have the problem. I took the card out of the enclosure, and studied all the solder joints and all looks good. My question is, is there a specific spot on the board I should look at closer that might create this kind of problem? It sounds like a cold joint to me, but they all look good.Thanks, Mike
Guest guest Posted November 11, 2011 Posted November 11, 2011 so when they went out, they all went out at once?Check your power connection on the 1-8 side; at your main power feed point. If that is intermittent, the processor electronics keeps running, but you'll experience what you are seeing if you are losing the hot or neutral side on bank 1-8. It has to be something common to all of them..
Mike Cole Posted November 11, 2011 Author Posted November 11, 2011 I did some more checking, fuses OK, also I have power to bank 1-8 (at the fuse holder), neutral jumper in right location and working, .....must be a cold joint. I'll pull the board again and hit all the solder joints...........unless I'm still missing something.......yes they all (1-8) went out at once........
Guest guest Posted November 11, 2011 Posted November 11, 2011 Just to clarify my past statement, the controller keeps running as it is powered from the 9-16 side.But yea, I'd be heating up anything that is common on that 1-8 side...you may also be able to poke a bit with an insulated/plastic tool and find where your intermittent issue resides. Would be interesting to know if you still have 120V on the center pin of your triacs when this occurs.Probably a long shot at best, but I would guess if that 74273 chip had an some issue, it could take the entire bank down.
Mike Cole Posted November 12, 2011 Author Posted November 12, 2011 Well, did some more checking. Controller works fine on channels 9-16. I reheated all solder spots, and checked center pin at each triac and all have 120v. So now it is beyond me, so I will send the board in.Thanks for your help Don................
Richard Hamilton Posted November 12, 2011 Posted November 12, 2011 I think what Don is saying is to be sure to check the actual wall connection and be sure you are getting power on BOTH plugs. I ran into this issue with someone recently and they had not plugged in BOTH plugs.
Guest guest Posted November 12, 2011 Posted November 12, 2011 I would not expect the issue to be the wall socket, especially if he brought it indoors, assumably to a different location, different outlet, and still had the problem.Definitely something common to the 1-8 side of the board.Mike..does it appear heat related, i.e., works fine until it is on for awhile, then starts having issues? Or has it exhibited these symptoms within a few minutes of powering up?
Mike Cole Posted November 12, 2011 Author Posted November 12, 2011 This particular controller is powered with one plug and has jumpers installed to feed ch 1-8. It has been plugged in outside at the prop location and also removed and brought in next to the computer to test with the hardware utility. The issue exists at any plug. The symptoms start immediately........................
Guest guest Posted November 13, 2011 Posted November 13, 2011 Just for grins, have you tried a separate power cord, in case you have a loose jumper, or bad solder connection on the jumper QC?I assume you've also made sure the processor was seated and all the standard "this likely isn't it but will check it anyway" type stuff?Is this a new controller board LOR built, or did you build this one? I assume it did function 100% at one time, correctt?
Mike Cole Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 Well, I did remove the jumpers and installed another power cord (2) with the same results. This is a kit PC board I built and worked at first test with the HU. I have tried all the suggestions and still have the problem. Luckily I did have a spare kit so I built that yesterday and replaced the problem board and all is good. I will send the bad board in for a fix when things get a little slower at LOR. Thanks again Don for your time and help, Mike
LORisAwesome Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 Sounds like you have it fixed. I know this isn't exactly relevant, but, others mind find this useful.I had some squirrely problems with my show last year. I re-booted the computer and everything was good again.When the problem started, the computer had been up for at least three weeks or so without a re-boot.This year I plan to re-boot the computer each weekend during the day when the show isn't running.Jerry
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