CTB16PC vrs CTB16D

[Wayne K]

Can anyone tell me what the main differences are in the CTB16PC and the CTB16D controlers? Is there a comparison chart some where? I have been buying the ctb16d controllers and it seems like a waste of dollars to buy these controllers to run 50-100 light string on one channel such as setting up a candy cane wheel or something that most of the controler channels only have a very minimal load or funtion on them. From what I have been reading they both will control lights the same way. The major difference it looks like to me is that # 1 they don't have the unit ID switches on them and # 2 they will not run in stand alone mode. So my 1st question is how do you ID these and how are they IDed in the software? Trying to get this all figued out before the big summer sale so I know what I am going to buy this year.

Thanks for any info on these

Wayne

[Surfing4Dough]

I agree that the CTB16PC is the way to go if you plan to run a show to music (since the stand-alone mode is only for non-musical sequences). Both control lights the EXACT same way (a common misunderstanding). Both can be run off either a computer or a director/mini-director. Save the money so you can buy more controllers now or later.

Good discussions on this topic:

http://forums.lightorama.com/forum25/23291.html
(changed to this discussion half way down the page)

http://forums.lightorama.com/forum80/22003-1.html
(best discussion starts on page 2)

[lightzilla]

I own 2 of those kind of boards you own but the other 19 controllers are all PC controllers. Stand A Lone is not important to me. However all you need is one Stand A Lone to run a whole network of controllers no matter what the controllers.

The ID set up is rather easy to do and it is found in the "Light O Rama Hardware Utility" that is incorporated in the Lor 2 software.

All new PC controllers are set at "01" when they come in so you will need to set the ID.

[Wayne K]

Sounds like I may look at the pc controllers this year. How is the id set? Do you have to hook up one controller at a time and set the id with the hardware utility? Once that Id is set does it stay or do you have to redo them every year when you restore power to them?

Thanks for the additional answers

Wayne

[George Simmons]

The unit ID is set with the Hardware Utility. It's best to hook up one controller at a time, but not required. The controller holds its ID from one season to the next.

[Surfing4Dough]

I personally prefer setting the ID via the computer. The numbers on the rotary switches can be difficult to see unless in good lighting. Plus it seems they are just one additional mechanical part to break (I have read reports of that here).

[Guest guest]

Wayne K wrote:

Sounds like I may look at the pc controllers this year. How is the id set? Do you have to hook up one controller at a time and set the id with the hardware utility? Once that Id is set does it stay or do you have to redo them every year when you restore power to them?

Thanks for the additional answers

Wayne

I use the Hardware Utility, one CTB16PC controller at a time, more than one with the same ID # and trying to set new ones for each controller won't work(per the manual!)

So if you bought 3 controlelrs, they all come with their id set at 00 or 01 (I'm not certain at the moment), but if you have all 3 connected at the same time and all having the same ID, the HW will only think ONE controller is there and when you change the ID, ALL those controllers WILL BE SET to whatever ID you just assigned them. I know, I speak from experience! Only do one controller at a time and prevent the headaches!

LOR Dan posted somewhere around here on the forums some time ago that these things have a very long term memory of some kind and the ID should remain in effect for a VERY, VERY long time, more than most of us will live!

Have fun!

[Guest guest]

I've looked at this a couple times, again today after reading this thread...built 3 D series controllers last year for 3 basic reasons:

1. knew i was going to do some wiring harnesses for groups of mini-trees, didn't want to mess with crimps...preferred screw terminals.

2. since I was doing animation only, stand-alone mode was an option i considered. That would, of course, drive the decision to make at least one controller D series, until you consider point 1.

3. At some point, i decided I liked the idea of being able to look at a controller, know its controller ID, and not have to wonder if i set one wrong. I guess thats somewhat personal preference...

This year, I've bought 4 more D controllers, as I'm doing some expansion with the trees, and likely some other stuff that would dictate harnesses. But, as I expand this year to an area between my driveway and the road (a 100x50 canvas begging to Christmas light artistry..), it made me wonder, since I'd be doing more "dongle based" connections, minimal if any harnesses, that PC would make sense.

I looked at it two different ways...curious everyone's thoughts on the logic here.

I'm doing everything kit-based, so pre-built numbers may not be the same.

A D-series kit, high power heatsinks, runs 160 bucks..so in simplest terms, 4 bucks/amp if you manage to use all 40 amps the board can provide.

A PC-series controller kit, we'll assume published specs of 30A, 120 bucks for board with HP sinks, and you're still at 4 bucks/amp.

Again, that cost is best case, assume you can get maximum efficiency from the controller without exceeding any per channel specs.

Now, consider a 500A display...would require 17 PC series controllers, or 13 D series. Again, this is a best case/perfect world analysis. It assumes you use up the 30A/40A limit without exceeding the per channel limits. Considering the 13th/17th controller takes you over 500A, there is some balance there. But no argument that you can skew this a bit with the assumptions regarding current consumption.

13 D series controllers will run $2080, 17 PC series $2040. Assumes just the controllers, no dongles, case, etc.

If the PC series, as Jeff alludes to, can do 40A, then it leans towards PC series (Dan..comments?...)...that cost drops to $1560, and you have the same number of kits to build.

it also assumes, of course, you don't need/want the D series differentiators...screw terminals, or in the case of one controller, stand-alone capability.

So I'm still on the fence, whether to continue with D series, or mix in some PC series..the OCD in me wants all the same stuff , the thrifty/efficient engineer side of me says mix in the PCs where it makes sense.

[Surfing4Dough]

DonFL wrote:

If the PC series, as Jeff alludes to, can do 40A, then it leans towards PC series (Dan..comments?...)...that cost drops to $1560, and you have the same number of kits to build.

My understanding is that all you have to do is put the PC controller in a metal enclosure (the plastic isn't rated to control that potential heat), install 12 gauge power cords (the 2 power input cords), and upgrade to ceramic 20A fast acting fuses. Obviously must use the high power heat sinks too.

[Wayne K]

DonFl

I just looked at the complete controller cost of a pc with heat sinks 121.95 plus 19.95 = 141.90 and the d was 219.95 that is 78.00$ per controller cheaper. Looks like to me I can get 3 pc's for the price of 2 d's. I will check more later, I just logged on to check something else and seen these post

Wayne

[Guest guest]

You're correct..obviously a different profit margin on the two when comparing assembled.

Its another valid comparison point...PC assembled is cheaper than a D kit, assuming HP sinks..

[Guest guest]

DonFL wrote:

3. At some point, i decided I liked the idea of being able to look at a controller, know its controller ID, and not have to wonder if i set one wrong. I guess thats somewhat personal preference...

That what they made Sharpie markers for! All my CTB16PC controllers have been written on with a black sharpie on the top of the box and even the front and inside front cover what ID # each one is. All I have to do is look at the controllers box and I know at a glance what controller ID I'm working with. And Sharpies are a lot cheaper than buying a controller with ID switches which still can't be seen UNLESS you open the box anyway! So if you want to know from the outward appearance you'd still have to mark those "D" controllers with a sharpie on the front, top or side to know what ID # it is without having to open it!

[Guest guest]

Yup...sharpies are a pretty common approach, or labels, or anything to visually ID them externally..

A mentioned, that point is personal preference...not the main driver behind the decision choose one over the other.