Broken C1 ceramic capacitor on the DYI CTB16PC kit

[ckjhill]

I'm unsure of the replacement part for this one. I broke one end off of the C1 10uf ceramic capacitor. Tech support said I could use a 1uf tantalum capacitor. Radio shack has the 10uf tantalum capacitor 16wvdc max or 0.1uf ceramic- capacitor 50wvdc max high k dielectric. Which one can I use for a replacement? On the assembly manual it says that C1 is a 10uf 50V 10% ceramic capacitor. Thank You

[huskernut]

given those 2 choices I would go with the same capacitance 10 uf. looking at where it is on the board, the 50v is the maximum rating but the Tantalum should be fine.

That said it has been 20 years since I was hands on with circuit boards

[ckjhill]

Thanks!!

[Max-Paul]

huskernut wrote:

given those 2 choices I would go with the same capacitance 10 uf. looking at where it is on the board, the 50v is the maximum rating but the Tantalum should be fine.

That said it has been 20 years since I was hands on with circuit boards

As long as the cap is of the same value and has as good or higher voltage rating it should work. But there is quiet a different way a ceramic and tantalum cap will work. Ceramic will not hold a D.C. charge like the tantalum cap will. A ceramic cap is more for blocking D.C. currents and acting like a A.C. resistor. And a tantalum cap is used for filtering out A.C. and will store up D.C. charge.

But it looks like the two you have spotted at R.S. Neither will work in this application. I do not know what actual voltage is found across the terminals on the board. But if the original part was rated for 50VDC. Then I would not suggest getting anything with a lower voltage rating.

[ckjhill]

Works great!!!!!

[Guest guest]

So you went with the tantalum with a 16 VDC rating? And the original part was rated at 50 WVDC? :shock:

[ckjhill]

yes , so far so good

[Guest guest]

without seeing a schematic, and all my boards are outside, can't say what level of nervous I would be at..but there is some risk when you are under the original part's specs from a wvdc standpoint, as typically that rating is what it is for a reason.

But..it could be as simple as..in bulk, the 50 volt devices were cheaper than 16s or 25s or 35s...but personally, not a risk I would take, without LOR blessing it.

If you do get thru the season without any issues, and you very well might, I would definitely replace with the same part that was originally in there before next year.

I'm sure LOR would send you one for minimal if any cost.

[fan1080]

I have to agree. Caps are typically derated for voltage, meaning, they are spec'ed for in-circuit voltage ratings that are usually significantly higher than the voltage they will see in-circuit.

This is done to protect the components in case of a surge or transient. Just becasue it seems to work ok now, doesn't mean it will work for ever. You wouldn't want this to lead to a larger more expensive failure.

From what has been discussed here in the past, LOR seems very good about sending out parts when asked. I would call support and request a new cap from them.