LOR1602W vs. CTB16PC

[OurMikeyRocks]

Is there a difference in performance or reliability between the two controllers?

I am not asking about the current handling capability, nicer housing, etc.

I am considering another purchase and was wondering if there is a compelling reason to select one over the other based on performance or reliability.

[Don]

There are no issues with performance or reliability.

About the only thing that might get you (and I seriously doubt it) is if you were going to want to run the CTB16PC in stand-alone mode. That would be a problem as they don't do stand-alone.

There are other minor differences, of course, but nothing that will affect the operation of your display. I use 4 of them (I think) in my display at home.

[George Simmons]

I use about 25 of the CTB16PC units without performance issues. And if you want standalone all you need is one 1602 and the rest can be the PCs.

[OurMikeyRocks]

OK, Don and George, that's exactly what I will have - one 1602 and the rest will be PCs.

Thanks for the response and advice.

[LightORamaDan]

OurMikeyRocks wrote:

OK, Don and George, that's exactly what I will have - one 1602 and the rest will be PCs.

Thanks for the response and advice.

I agree with your choice... A little late but here is the canned response we give when asked:

The LOR1602W (LOR) is a commercial grade controller with a UL508 (industrial) rating. It is the only controller in the Animated Christmas Market Place with safety certification. The CTB16PC-ReadyToGO (PC) is not safety certified (but is designed with safety in mind!).


The LOR is in a heavy duty steel case, the PC is in a plastic case.


The LOR is has a 2 year warranty, the PC has a 1 year warranty.



The LOR has (non-musical) standalone mode and can as director to control other controllers, the PC cannot.



The electronics in the LOR are designed for 40amps and down rated to 30 amps; the PC is designed for 30amps.



The LOR has unit ID switches for easy setup; the PC requires that you use a program on your computer to set the Unit ID.



The LOR has safety plate to protect the electronics and reduce shock hazard, the PC does not.



The LOR has an on/off switch with easy access fuses, the PC does not.



The LOR and the PC do have the same lighting effects and are rated at the same current. They can be used interchangeably in a LOR network.



Dan

[Bob Wingert]

Since I am clueless I will ask! I have 4 of these CTB16PC (complete package) So, these are for outdoor use, right? I mean they can handle the elements? Again just wanting to be 100% certain before I start blowing things up. Thanks

[bisquit476]

Keep them and the cords out of standing water and you'll be fine

[PaulXmas]

pokrplr wrote:

Since I am clueless I will ask! I have 4 of these CTB16PC (complete package) So, these are for outdoor use, right? I mean they can handle the elements? Again just wanting to be 100% certain before I start blowing things up. Thanks

No!

Please ship them to me...LOL

Seriously they are designed for the outdoors.

Survived -40 in northen Alberta Canada

[lightzilla]

pokrplr wrote:

Since I am clueless I will ask! I have 4 of these CTB16PC (complete package) So, these are for outdoor use, right? I mean they can handle the elements? Again just wanting to be 100% certain before I start blowing things up. Thanks

There are a lot CTB16PC users out there in this world. We are all for the most part doing just fine.

So do not fret you will be o k.

[George Simmons]

pokrplr wrote:

I mean they can handle the elements?

The cover might come open in 60-70 MPH straight-line winds and sideways rain like we had around here a couple weeks ago, so if you're going to have them out in those kinds of conditions you'll want to make sure the door is closed and secured.

[Steven]

George Simmons wrote:

The cover might come open in 60-70 MPH straight-line winds and sideways rain like we had around here a couple weeks ago,

Last year just before Halloween I forgot to screw the cover closed on one of my controllers. The rain got in and it stopped working. When the rain let up I got out there in the drizzle and swapped out the board.

I took the broken board inside and hooked it up, but it still didn't work. But after it dried out overnight it started working again.

Lessons learned: 1. Always screw the enclosures shut! 2. Water can make the boards stop working, but the damage may not be permanent.

[Bob Wingert]

PaulXmas wrote:

pokrplr wrote:

Since I am clueless I will ask! I have 4 of these CTB16PC (complete package) So, these are for outdoor use, right? I mean they can handle the elements? Again just wanting to be 100% certain before I start blowing things up. Thanks

No!

Please ship them to me...LOL

Seriously they are designed for the outdoors.

Survived -40 in northen Alberta Canada

Shoot! I'll be fine then! This is SC and winters are like in the mid 50's - Low 60's. There's been many Christmas's that I've worn shorts

And George, no nasty winds like that here. Unless its August or Sept and a Hurricane's coming

[Greg Young]

Steven wrote:

George Simmons wrote:

The cover might come open in 60-70 MPH straight-line winds and sideways rain like we had around here a couple weeks ago,

Last year just before Halloween I forgot to screw the cover closed on one of my controllers. The rain got in and it stopped working. When the rain let up I got out there in the drizzle and swapped out the board.

I took the broken board inside and hooked it up, but it still didn't work. But after it dried out overnight it started working again.

Lessons learned: 1. Always screw the enclosures shut! 2. Water can make the boards stop working, but the damage may not be permanent.

Another tip - if electronics have experienced direct water exposure - keep them powered down until they are thoroughly dry (I usually allow a week or so of air drying, after I have removed as much moisture as I can mechanically with heat gun set on low heat setting, or hair dryer, etc).

Once they are dry power them up again, and often they will be fine.

This includes cell phones that, for example, have fallen into a pond.. not that I would admit to having experienced that of course!

Greg

[PaulXmas]

Greg Young wrote:

This includes cell phones that, for example, have fallen into a pond.. not that I would admit to having experienced that of course!

Greg

I errr I mean someone I know had his Blackberry on his bathing suitn when he went into the hot tub.

It was a company BB so I...he said it fell into a puddle and was given a new one.

I wonder if that would have worked after it dried out (I needed it for work so couldn't wait a week).

[LENNY RUEL]

So Dan, What happens if I need 32 amps out of my 1602 and one of my PC's? I was just going top order up some 20 amp fuses....

Lenny

[LightORamaDan]

LENNY RUEL wrote:

So Dan, What happens if I need 32 amps out of my 1602 and one of my PC's? I was just going top order up some 20 amp fuses....

Lenny

I recommend that the documented current ratings be adhered to.

In general most electronic equipment can withstand some overload especially if the duration is short.

Dan

[miguel]

One more tip: put the card or phone in rice, the rice will absorb the moisture.:dude:

[ErnieHorning]

LENNY RUEL wrote:

What happens if I need 32 amps out of my 1602 and one of my PC's?

Lenny you just need a little more cooling.

[LENNY RUEL]

Lenny you just need a little more cooling.

NICE !!

Lenny

[Michael Mcdowell]

ErnieHorning wrote:

LENNY RUEL wrote:

What happens if I need 32 amps out of my 1602 and one of my PC's?

Lenny you just need a little more cooling.

I was wondering where my cpu cooler went off to.