caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 it is plugged in and it has a live circuit. what do i need to check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 caniac wrote:it is plugged in and it has a live circuit. what do i need to check?how do you know the circuit is live?did you measure the voltage at the outlet?then see if you have the same voltage on each side of the fuses in the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: caniac wrote:it is plugged in and it has a live circuit. what do i need to check?how do you know the circuit is live?did you measure the voltage at the outlet?then see if you have the same voltage on each side of the fuses in the case.extension cord and plugged a light into each outlet going to the controller. this is a dedicated circuit and the other controller on it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 caniac wrote:JBullard wrote: caniac wrote:it is plugged in and it has a live circuit. what do i need to check?how do you know the circuit is live?did you measure the voltage at the outlet?then see if you have the same voltage on each side of the fuses in the case.extension cord and plugged a light into each outlet going to the controller. this is a dedicated circuit and the other controller on it works fine.Then get out the multimeter and start checking voltage to each side of the fuses. If the voltage is different, them pull the fuse and make a continuity check. If bad, replace the fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: caniac wrote:JBullard wrote: caniac wrote:it is plugged in and it has a live circuit. what do i need to check?how do you know the circuit is live?did you measure the voltage at the outlet?then see if you have the same voltage on each side of the fuses in the case.extension cord and plugged a light into each outlet going to the controller. this is a dedicated circuit and the other controller on it works fine.Then get out the multimeter and start checking voltage to each side of the fuses. If the voltage is different, them pull the fuse and make a continuity check. If bad, replace the fusethat only works if you have one of those and know how to use it. I fail on both parts of that quiz. Is it a standard fuse?this unit worked and worked fine halloween. I did leave my controllers in the yard given that I was going to be setting up Christmas early. was that a bad thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 caniac wrote:that only works if you have one of those and know how to use it. I fail on both parts of that quiz. Is it a standard fuse?this unit worked and worked fine halloween. I did leave my controllers in the yard given that I was going to be setting up Christmas early. was that a bad thing?-------------------------------------------------------Ok, when you asked what you needed to check.......If you do not have an inventory of replacement fuses from LOR, then the 15 amp fuses for microwave ovens will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 The fuses should be fast acting 15 amp ceramic fuses.The link for the LOR fuses is below. I just ordered a pack several years ago when I ordered some controllers, luckily haven't needed to use them, but I have them in inventory for that night when a fuse may blow.http://store.lightorama.com/12pafu15afaa.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: The fuses should be fast acting 15 amp ceramic fuses.The link for the LOR fuses is below. I just ordered a pack several years ago when I ordered some controllers, luckily haven't needed to use them, but I have them in inventory for that night when a fuse may blow.http://store.lightorama.com/12pafu15afaa.htmlso do you think one fuse blew or both? is it common for the controller to not work at all when one fuse blows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 If you have the CTB16PC controller, the power for the board electronics is supplied on the right side.So perhaps if the problem is the fuse, that would be the one to check first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: If you have the CTB16PC controller, the power for the board electronics is supplied on the right side.So perhaps if the problem is the fuse, that would be the one to check first.that is what I have. my confusion is this, it worked fine two weeks ago for my Halloween show so what would cause the fuse to blow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 We don't know for certain that the problem is a blown fuse until a continuity test is made on the fuse or it is replaced and then the controller starts working.I have been using LOR since 2007, have 30 controllers, and never had a bad fuse (so far )But if the LED light doesn't even flash, then it suggests a power issue, either a line cord, fuse, or fried onboard electronics.Wouldn't have a clue without using a multimeter to test the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 How many amps were you pulling on each bank of the controller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: We don't know for certain that the problem is a blown fuse until a continuity test is made on the fuse or it is replaced and then the controller starts working.I have been using LOR since 2007, have 30 controllers, and never had a bad fuse (so far )But if the LED light doesn't even flash, then it suggests a power issue, either a line cord, fuse, or fried onboard electronics.Wouldn't have a clue without using a multimeter to test the unit.a quick look at the circuit board doesn't show any sign of stress (have seen a few fried PC's). fuse sounds easy enough to try but how do i trace a line cord issue. if it is a fried controller then what kind of warranty is on these and how quick is the warranty turn around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: How many amps were you pulling on each bank of the controller?nothing is plugged in yet so that would be zero, will be running LED's and a rope light signing Christmas tree plus a few LED based mini trees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 caniac wrote: Wouldn't have a clue without using a multimeter to test the unit.a quick look at the circuit board doesn't show any sign of stress (have seen a few fried PC's). fuse sounds easy enough to try but how do i trace a line cord issue. if it is a fried controller then what kind of warranty is on these and how quick is the warranty turn around?Tracing a line cord issue is easily done with a multimeter.Is this one of the units you bought from WOW lights? Do they offer the standard LOR warranty or something else?I think I read in another post, either yesterday or today that LORs repair center is backed up 3 or 4 weeks, which is normal this time of year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Linburg Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Radio Shack sells the fuses for lightorama ctb16pc and other modles. It would be the easiest to try and replace the fuse. I just had to replace 2 fuses because I had too many lights on one channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 JBullard wrote: caniac wrote: Wouldn't have a clue without using a multimeter to test the unit.a quick look at the circuit board doesn't show any sign of stress (have seen a few fried PC's). fuse sounds easy enough to try but how do i trace a line cord issue. if it is a fried controller then what kind of warranty is on these and how quick is the warranty turn around?Tracing a line cord issue is easily done with a multimeter.Is this one of the units you bought from WOW lights? Do they offer the standard LOR warranty or something else?I think I read in another post, either yesterday or today that LORs repair center is backed up 3 or 4 weeks, which is normal this time of year.I bought this at WoWLights. Another Option worst case I guess is to buy another controller while this is being repaired (if it needs that) assuming there is no backorder on new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Try the fuse first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I highly suggest you get a VOM and learn how to use it. You are past the Mr. Christmas stage and a VOM is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBullard Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Max-Paul wrote:I highly suggest you get a VOM and learn how to use it. You are past the Mr. Christmas stage and a VOM is your friend.I highly suggest this comment, worded the way it is, was not appropriate.I do agree that this hobby can be enhanced by having a basic knowledge of electricty (both for safety and trouble shooting), and some inexpensive basic electrical test equipment also helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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