dito

diagram for 5050 RGB LED setup

109 posts in this topic

ok, i am overwhelmed at this point considering RGB LED vs individual ropelights. i know the RGB will be MUCH lighter to put on my roof line and millions more colors than rope lights (non RGB). cost will probably be less with RGB vs individual ropelights.

so far i have gathered that i will need at least the following:

5050 RGB Strips http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209843764-329544925/5m-one-roll-5050-SMD-30LEDs-m-led-strip-waterproof-by-silicon-tubing-and-coating-RGB.html .

at least one power supplies http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209855560-289599951/350W-Dual-Output-Switching-Power-Supply-88-264VAC-input-12V-350W-output-CE-and-ROHS-approved.html .

And you can control the strip using the LOR controller http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca2.html

power wire for the strip (from the power supply I THINK)? 4 wire/speaker wire CL2 rated 100' http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=4043&seq=1&format=2

so my questions are:

-how do i get power to the power supply? do i plug a car battery to it or do i have to buy a plug/converter/adapter that plugs/connects to the power supply? I've heard i can use old computer power supply, what? how? ugh!

-where the hell does the power supply go in line with the other components? does it only plug into the "power input" of the LOR?

-how do i physically connect the LOR controller to the RGB strips? would i take up 3 channels/strip? for example channels 1,2,3 all go to same strip? but what about the common anode?

if someone has a drawing or technical "map"/diagram, it would be really helpful and GREATLY appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok, so i am pretty sure i got the power wire explenation wrong. i THINK the power wires (4wire) go from LOR controller to RGB string, but I am still not sure how you would only use 4 wires for 3 channels. 1 channel for each positive, and a shared negative (common anode)? but do you just hook up to any negative, or...?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are almost right. Have a look at this photo, I just quickly put it together to give you an idea of how to do it.

The 4 wire go from the channels out to your strip.

The strip uses a common positve.

Each colour Red, Green, Blue wire uses one negitive channel of your LOR board and the Black wire goes to the positive of one the three channels.

Attached files 305329=16753-RGB Basic set up LOR.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is how the RGB connects to the LOR DC control pannel

Attached files 305344=16754-RGBlor.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dito wrote:

ok, i am overwhelmed at this point considering RGB LED vs individual ropelights. i know the RGB will be MUCH lighter to put on my roof line and millions more colors than rope lights (non RGB). cost will probably be less with RGB vs individual ropelights.

so far i have gathered that i will need at least the following:

5050 RGB Strips http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209843764-329544925/5m-one-roll-5050-SMD-30LEDs-m-led-strip-waterproof-by-silicon-tubing-and-coating-RGB.html .

at least one power supplies http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209855560-289599951/350W-Dual-Output-Switching-Power-Supply-88-264VAC-input-12V-350W-output-CE-and-ROHS-approved.html .

And you can control the strip using the LOR controller http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca2.html

power wire for the strip (from the power supply I THINK)?  4 wire/speaker wire CL2 rated 100'  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=4043&seq=1&format=2

so my questions are:

-how do i get power to the power supply? do i plug a car battery to it or do i have to buy a plug/converter/adapter that plugs/connects to the power supply? I've heard i can use old computer power supply, what? how? ugh!

-where the hell does the power supply go in line with the other components? does it only plug into the "power input" of the LOR?

-how do i physically connect the LOR controller to the RGB strips? would i take up 3 channels/strip? for example channels 1,2,3 all go to same strip? but what about the common anode?

if someone has a drawing or technical "map"/diagram, it would be really helpful and GREATLY appreciated!


The 12 power supply is actually a power converter. You will need a three wire 110v male end (maybe off an old extension cord). Connect ground, neg and pos correctly and off you go. Run your red and black wire from the output side to you LOR pannel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick thank you to Andrew and Troy.

I have been wanting to test the RGB waters and didn't know how everything connected to the controller. Being a visual person, the pics were awesome.

I just bought a power supply from Season Entertainment, 3 test pixels from Holiday Coro and the controller from LOR.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about your end caps? How you plan to attach the ends? Or do you plan on powering each strip indiviually?? Just curious... I've been doing some research over RGB aswell.
Just making sure im on the right track too. And possibly helping others think outside the box for materials needed.
My customers hate when they get sold something for their Harley & have to come back to buy a gasket or a bolt...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also while Im thinking on this..

You can only control 5 (5) meter strips with a single controller depending on the length the controller is from the strips?

So with that question. In order to control 10 strips (5)meters each I would need a minimum of 2 controllers & how many power supplies?

Thanks

Johnny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hdracer wrote:

Also while Im thinking on this..

You can only control 5 (5) meter strips with a single controller depending on the length the controller is from the strips?

So with that question. In order to control 10 strips (5)meters each I would need a minimum of 2 controllers & how many power supplies?

Thanks

Johnny


That is correct one controller will run five RGB strips two controllers will run 10 and three controllers will run 16 strips. One of the power supplies should have 3 + + + and 3 - - - terminals which you may run 3 controllers with one power supplies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What wattage power suplly could handle up to 3 controllers sufficently with 16 (5) meter strips?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hdracer wrote:

What about your end caps?
I have not gotten that for because I am only planning on planning on using each strip individually.

How you plan to attach the ends? You really don't want to connect strips together equaling more 16.3 feet. When you go longer then 16.3 feet you get a power drop and the second strip. Meaning the second strip will be dimmer than the first.


Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hdracer wrote:

What wattage power suplly could handle up to 3 controllers sufficently with 16 (5) meter strips?
http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209855560-289599951/350W-Dual-Output-Switching-Power-Supply-88-264VAC-input-12V-350W-output-CE-and-ROHS-approved.html is a good power supply. Remember is it a power converter; so it converts 110v into 12V. You are plugging the power converter into a normal 110v outlet. Each of the 3 outputs will produce 3 individual 12v sources

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So if I want to do around my windows & each window is 6ft. ea side & 4ft. top & bottom, which equals 20ft. What would be my options? Also as far as the ends in the windows I would need caps that carry the 4 wire ends to connect the corners in each window? Does Ray Wu carry the ends that make this happen?
Last question.. RGB is like LED, you can only run the power from one way through the lighting, not both ends?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone elaborate more on the programming required?

From the pictures given so far, I understand the 5 strips per controller (which oddly enough I happen to have for another project that never came to pass)

1 strip = 3 channels (1 Red, 1 Green, 1 Blue) x 5 strips = 15 channels... If my Jethro Bodine cipher machine is working correctly...

So programming is

Channel 1 = Strip 1, Red

Channel 2 = Strip 1, Green

Channel 3 = Strip 1, Blue

Channel 4 = Strip 2, Red ..

etc etc etc...

I can see a LOT of time, trial and effort in LOR S2. Does S3 provide a less than brute force method?

Pricing on the strips doesnt look bad, power supplies.. I have, controller I have...

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this maybe a stupid question and if anyone wants to laugh at me go ahead i can take it lol

but is it as easy as me adding a CMB16D-QC to the 4 CTP16PC i already have and just programme it to be box 5 in the line ????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Troy Mann wrote:

hdracer wrote:
What about your end caps?
I have not gotten that for because I am only planning on planning on using each strip individually.

How you plan to attach the ends? You really don't want to connect strips together equaling more 16.3 feet. When you go longer then 16.3 feet you get a power drop and the second strip. Meaning the second strip will be dimmer than the first.




That is not completely true. I actually double up my strips on the same controller for my display and had zero signs of dimming on the second strip. However, I did not double up on every channel...about half. I used the LOR DC board, 30A DC power supply, 18AWG 4-wire for the power feeds and only about 20ft of wire between. I also just recently did the same and the run was like 50ft...I was a little worried, but showed no problems.

Just make sure you do your own testing and take power reading. Hate for you to set up and then it doesnt work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hdracer wrote:

So if I want to do around my windows & each window is 6ft. ea side & 4ft. top & bottom, which equals 20ft. What would be my options?

I don't think you will run into that big of a problem with the extra 4 feet if you tie it together as one window equals one channel.

http://forums.lightorama.com/view_topic.php?id=31939&forum_id=75&highlight=RGB+strip+end+caps

Show some of the tubing and end caps


Also as far as the ends in the windows I would need caps that carry the 4 wire ends to connect the corners in each window?

Does Ray Wu carry the ends that make this happen? Yes


Last question.. RGB is like LED, you can only run the power from one way through the lighting, not both ends?

I believe you are correct. Unless I am missing something

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the correction Cracker. I was also told not to double up, but now I am going to play around with it some more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

digdeepfundraising wrote:

this maybe a stupid question and if anyone wants to laugh at me go ahead i can take it lol

but is it as easy as me adding a CMB16D-QC to the 4 CTP16PC i already have and just programme it to be box 5 in the line ????
That's all you have to do (as long as the DC controller unit number is set to 5 as well)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank you troy looks like im spending more now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cracker please stay involved in this discussion... I like the positive & creative input! Im not afraid to test limits on things as long as people do like you have stated.. Check the voltage readings! I could go on about these things! I just want to be factual from what I have read to what folks here have done that is innovating!
I love innovating from ideas I have seen. Sometimes we gotta test some limits but check ALL for safety!
I appreciate everyones input on this matter!
once again thank you all for responding so quickly to my questions!!
Johnny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank you all for the replies, it has helped clear things up, especially the photos! one question i still have is why can rope light LED be OK at 150ft runs, but RGB can only be 5-10Meter runs?
and yes, thanks cracker, i will have to test my own double strip to see if i get dimming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dito wrote:

one question i still have is why can rope light LED be OK at 150ft runs, but RGB can only be 5-10Meter runs?

I believe the answer would be amperage?? Don't quote me on that, but from my knowledge in electrical I think it would be amperage differances..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dito wrote:

thank you all for the replies, it has helped clear things up, especially the photos! one question i still have is why can rope light LED be OK at 150ft runs, but RGB can only be 5-10Meter runs?
and yes, thanks cracker, i will have to test my own double strip to see if i get dimming.


It has to do with Ohms law and the resistance of a cable, the voltage and the current.

Rope light is usually 110volt in the US and strip is usually 12vdc and some are 5vdc, so with some calculations we can show the difference the voltage makes to current for the same rated wattage used.



So the current required would be:

Current = power(watts) / Voltage

Current = 100 watts / 110 volts

= 0.91 amps @ 110 volts



Now for the same wattage used but running at 12vdc

current = 100 watts / 12 volts

= 8.3 amps @ 12 volts



The reason that strips are only 12vdc and 5vdc is because an LED has a rated forward voltage that it will run with, so the LEDs are connnected in series.

Example. An LED may have a forward voltage rating of 3 volts, if you connect 3 of theses LEDs in series you will get 9 volts and 3 volts will be required to be dropped through a resistor. This allows the strips to have a much smaller cuttable section than what is found on rope lights. For the same rated LED on a rope light working at 110v would require around 30+ LEDs connected in series to become an efficient LED circuit.



Now the next thing is resistance of a cable which effects the voltage and this as well can be shown using ohms law.

Voltage = Current (amps) x resistance (ohms)

So different cable sizes have a different resistance value, generally the larger the cable the lower the resistance.



20 guage wire has a resitance rating of 1.28 ohms per 100 feet

16 guage wire has a resitance rating of 0.40 ohms per 100 feet

So the voltage drop differences for a 5 amp load over 100 feet would look like this



20 gauge: Voltage = 5 amps x 1.28 ohms = 6.4 volts dropped over 100 feet



16 gauge: Voltage = 5 amps x 0.40 ohms = 2 volts dropped over 100 feet



So by using a lower voltage the % of voltage drop is a much higher with lower voltages than higher voltages over a given distance and this is why cable choice is also very important when using low voltage lighting and why power injection is used to get these extra distances.



I hope that makes it a bit more easier to understand why it is so

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.