Wiring Suggestions

[RaceMedic]

Hi Folks;

I am looking for some suggestions on the best way to run socket wire around a 3 panel window. I will try and add an attachment.

Is there such a thing as an inline plug to run a string up the middle two lines or is a three way plug the best way to go .. or even just seperate lines all together ?!

Thank-you for your time.

Dave


Attached files

[-klb-]

Many of the female vampire plugs are designed so that a portion can be clipped out, and the socket attached in line. Seems like two of those would do the trick.

[lightzilla]

Last year I was wondering how in the world am I going to run lights around my windows without wrecking the new siding that was installed, but it was easy for me because the wide angle LEDs fit just nicely in the J-channel tracks.

If you are using C9 sockets you could always put the light strings on 1/2" or 3/4" PVC conduit pipe with Zip ties and fasten the PVC pipe that you will custom fit yourself to fit around the window. You need to figure a way to fasten the PVC pipe to the window frame.

I use to make custom light strings ( I use C7 Retro fit LED lights) by cutting the light strings to the exact size of the window ( 3 panels) and then add a male or female plug.

[RaceMedic]

-klb- wrote:

Many of the female vampire plugs are designed so that a portion can be clipped out, and the socket attached in line. Seems like two of those would do the trick.

Thank-you ... that is what I had heard but wanted to verify it.

Dave

[RaceMedic]

Looking at my female vampire plugs that I purhased from Action Lighting there is no indication on which side is for the ribbed wire.

It is also only rated for 10A ... is that normal ?! I will be getting the 20A controllers in the summer sale but also all running LEDs.

Just don't know if I got poor quality ones or not.

Thanks, as usual.



Dave

[Max-Paul]

Hi Dave,

First these are retro LEDs that work off of 120VAC so it does not really matter how you install your vampire female sockets. Now if you were using these sockets with D.C. wiring, I would suggest you use different plug and sockets.

I am a cheap skate and I would not even use a plug and socket means of doing this. I would use a razor knife and carefully cut the jacket off of both wires so I have about .5" of bare wire exposed. Then take the wires that would be dropping down and strip back the end about 1" or there about. I would then wrap the end around the other wires and solder them together. Then I would wrap well with electric tape, maybe giving the joint a painting of liquid tape first then the electrical tape. This is cheap and a better joint. Dont have to worry about it becoming unplugged. Dont have to worry about the contact becoming dirty or tarnished.

Each to their own, but this is how I would do it..

[-klb-]

SPT2 cord is only rated at 10A, so why have cord ends rated for more? Most of us generally only use SPT2 on controller channels, and each channel is only rated for 8A. The 15, or 20A per inlet rating, is per inlet, and most of us are using 12/3 commercial cords if we think we are going to be using that much power. Remember, those numbers are only what the products are designed to safely handle. But your set up will only use what the lights on each channel actually draw. So the inlets will only see the sum of the channels that are on.

I do use SPT2 on a few controller inlets, but they do not have the factory grounded cords on either side, and they are only running 16 strings of LED.

As for the action lighting cord ends, some years they have been labeled for the ribbed side, and other years they have not. Here is how you tell for the ones that are not labeled. Look at the plug side. Figure out which blade is the wide one. Then, on the wire side of the plug, on the end with the wide blade, see which side of the plug has the prong for the wide blade. That is where the ribbed side of the wire goes.