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larry oneill

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Guest Don Gillespie

The lor1602w is what I have I will be upgrading to more controllers this year as for problems absolutly non with the controllers and any questions I did have I posted them here and with the great support from all of the Lor users all my questions were answered welcome aboard and have fun

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larry oneill wrote:

looking to get a lor1602w and a pc-ctb16pc for a 32 channel start up any comments or problems thanks in advance for the help

I am curious why you are planning on one of each, rather than just two PC-CTB16PC's? Last year I had 32 channels and had 2 PC-CTB16PC's and it worked well. A lot of newbies (like me initially last year) thought I had to have at least one showtime controller, until I learned otherwise. If planning to have a show to music, then there is not a significant difference between the two except for price. (If planning a non-musical show, then that may be different.)

Adding two more PC-CTB16PC's this year.
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Guest Don Gillespie

I will be going with the add on packages as I already have the start up packages, no need to duplicate, along with the add ons I might be looking at the cosmic ribbons, what I wanted to do was to see how the first year went and get real comfortable with the system I am learning a lot more now than when I got the contollers it seems to me hooking everything up is relativly easy it is the sequences that take most of the time, and as everybody says you can never have enough extension cords. :P

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Don Gillespie wrote:

I will be going with the add on packages as I already have the start up packages, no need to duplicate, along with the add ons I might be looking at the cosmic ribbons, what I wanted to do was to see how the first year went and get real comfortable with the system I am learning a lot more now than when I got the contollers it seems to me hooking everything up is relativly easy it is the sequences that take most of the time, and as everybody says you can never have enough extension cords. :P

You do realize that you can save over $500 by adding 64 channels of the PC controllers instead of using the Showtime controllers, right? And these can be added to your pre-existing system of Showtime controllers. As long as you understand that, that's fine, since you might have a specific reason for using Showtime controllers (which are usually intended for commercial use).

http://store.lightorama.com/ctascpa.html
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thanks for the help i think i am going to take the plunge and get 3 pc-ctb16pc for a total of 48 channels again thanks for the input from all and for all the great info from all on the forum

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The UL listing is one reason some people prefer the Showtime models. The ability to run shows without needing a PC connected is another reason. Just so long as you're aware that with the CBT16PC's you need to have them connected to a PC... Personally, I have the CBT16PC's exclusively simply due to the difference in price.

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George Simmons wrote:

The UL listing is one reason some people prefer the Showtime models. The ability to run shows without needing a PC connected is another reason. Just so long as you're aware that with the CBT16PC's you need to have them connected to a PC... Personally, I have the CBT16PC's exclusively simply due to the difference in price.

I think I have read that the metal box and applying for the UL rating ($) is mainly what leads to the UL listing. More or less a legality requirement for a business.

To clarify, either of them (showtime or PC) need to be connected to a PC or a director IF you are planning to run a show to music. The Showtime controllers can only run stand-alone if they are just running animation (blinky lights with no music). Not many people do that.
I have PC controllers and instead of running a cat5 cable to my computer, I just bought a Mini Director with MP3 Player during one of the sales and kept it in my garage. It runs the show and has an audio-out jack to send your audio to the FM transmitter you use. Therefore, don't have to have it connected to a PC. (Just initially during setup had to set the controller ID while connected to the PC -- a <5 minute process.)
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Thanks for the clarification. I should have been more specific regarding the standalone animation ability. Since I run everything synchronized to music, I didn't even consider that aspect.

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Guest Don Gillespie

Ok to clarify I have the LOR1602w starter package 32 channels can I buy the PC-CTB16PC-complete and will it work with the system I have now if I cat5 cable them together, if thats the case then I am pretty sure I can increase my channels by a whole lot more this year. As it is now I run everything through my computer.:}

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So what is the difference between a lor1602w and a pc-ctb16pc other than price and assembling some of the wires ... is that it ?!

Dave

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Guest Don Gillespie

Dave wrote

So what is the difference between a lor1602w and a pc-ctb16pc other than price and assembling some of the wires ... is that it ?!




Thats exactly what I would like to know also to save a $170.00 bucks I'll buy 5 or six of them

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RaceMedic wrote:

So what is the difference between a lor1602w and a pc-ctb16pc other than price and assembling some of the wires ... is that it ?!

Dave


As was stated earlier, the Showtime controllers are certified as waterproof, the PC series are not. The Showtime controllers can also run animation (but not music sequences) stand-alone. The Showtime controller are also rated somewhat higher in current capacity (40 amps vs 30 amps per controller)

-Gary-
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RaceMedic wrote:

So what is the difference between a lor1602w and a pc-ctb16pc other than price and assembling some of the wires ... is that it ?!

Dave


If you are planning to run an animated show to music, not much difference. First, both are made by LOR, and a majority here use the PC versions. The Showtime ones are mostly intended for commercial use--they come in a metal enslosure (rather than plastic) and therefore can be given UL rating--probably a requirement for most business's liability insurance. The PC versions come in very nice, sturdy, weather-tight plastic enclosures, like the phone companies use. The showtime controllers can have animation sequences loaded into them and run "independently" (without being connected to a computer or director). However, if planning to use music, then this doesn't really apply, since they in and of themselves can't play music. You need a computer, MP3 Director, or MP3 mini-director to play the music. My understanding is that the only other main difference is that the showtime controllers have a dial switch inside that allow you to set the Unit ID # (assign a name to the controller). On the PC version this is fairly simple too though, since you just connect it to your computer and set the ID number to the controller, and it retains it (took me a couple minutes). Either way, once you set this, you probably won't need to change it anyways.

Both types can do all the same cool animation effects--fades, shimmer, twinkle, etc. You can't tell any difference watching a Showtime controlled show running next to a PC controlled show--both do the same thing. Both have potential for same power too--just need heavier cords and fuses. Either start at 30A potential. I have never had the need to upgrade to the 40A though, so haven't done it myself.

The Show Time controller does have a 2 year warranty, while the CTB16PC has a 1 year warranty. However, make sure to check out the Unconditional Lifetime Replacement Policy for any of the LOR products: http://www.lightorama.com/Warranty.html (bottom of page)

There are some Canadian users that have stated they use the PC controllers in the extreme cold (-49F), and the CTB16PC controller and enclosure have proven to hold up just fine, even when buried in snow.

As somebody on another thread has pointed out before. One thing that is the same for both types is the addiction. You WILL want more channels no matter what. The big difference--the PC controller is a lot cheaper! Allows you to buy more controllers, and lights, and extension cords, etc!

Below is a good chart:
4262622834_dc04de43d4_o.jpg
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The other difference is the terminations on the boards. The "pc" series boards use quater-inch pushon connectors, whereas the lor1602w uses a screw-terminal block.


Edit: The lor1602w is a CTB16K circuit board in a metal case, with power cords already attached.


Regards,

Alan.

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Here are assembly videos of the PC controller that somebody made and posted. This helps you know EXACTLY what you are getting into with regards to assembly. This is for the non-soldiering Card Assembled model.





I haven't watched these in their entirety but they appear to be very thorough and he only edited out a few of the redundant repetitive steps and he still assembles the controller in less than 19 minutes, including taking it out of the shipping packaging. And that is with him explaining everything along the way (and showing the camera). As you can see, nothing hard, just a little tedious. I did both of mine last year while also watching TV. He gives a few good tips on arranging the ground wires in the video. It took me twice as long for my first controller (just to make sure I did everything by the book), and the second was a cinch.

Over the past year, I don't recall ever reading a single post that somebody indicated that they regretted getting a PC controller (rather than a showtime controller). Either will do the exact same job, so whatever you decide is up to you.
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Guest Don Gillespie

Totally clears everything up for me what a great video this has probably been the most helpful thread since I started LOR thanks to everyone saved me a lot of money wife will happy and I can buy more great job guys. ;)

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Don Gillespie wrote:

Totally clears everything up for me what a great video this has probably been the most helpful thread since I started LOR thanks to everyone saved me a lot of money wife will happy and I can buy more great job guys. ;)

Glad we could help! My commission rates are pretty low--accept checks or paypal. wink.gif

These forums (here and over at PlanetChristmas, but mostly here) are a great place to learn (where I learned everything I shared). Make sure you just keep asking the questions, and chip in whenever you can contribute to an answer. We are all still learning this stuff and are just sharing our experiences (not our expertise)!
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