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Electronic water valves


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I have a question that maybe can be answered here. I have these valves from KIP Inc. They are 120 volt 7 watt valves. From my calculations they will consume about 1365 Milliamps (if someone could check that, it would be cool) I want to use these in a sort of "mini jumping fountain" type of a set-up. My question is can the Light-O-Rama boards handle this without blowing. I know that the draw is very litle (amperage wise) and what I don't really know about is the initial draw that it would use. Is there some way that I can protect the boards? I am looking at around an 8 channel board and either letting it run in stand alone mode or even trying to sync it up to music at some point in time. If there is anyoine who can help me, please let the knowledge gush forth.

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There must be an error somewhere in your calculations. I get 58 ma and yes any lor board can handle that just fine.

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abigroot wrote:

I have a question that maybe can be answered here. I have these valves from KIP Inc. They are 120 volt 7 watt valves. From my calculations they will consume about 1365 Milliamps (if someone could check that, it would be cool) I want to use these in a sort of "mini jumping fountain" type of a set-up. My question is can the Light-O-Rama boards handle this without blowing. I know that the draw is very litle (amperage wise) and what I don't really know about is the initial draw that it would use. Is there some way that I can protect the boards? I am looking at around an 8 channel board and either letting it run in stand alone mode or even trying to sync it up to music at some point in time. If there is anyoine who can help me, please let the knowledge gush forth.

As Mike mentioned it is a fraction of an AMP.... Here is the possible issue. The valves are a highly inductive load. I would not recommend the CTB08 but the CTB08D and CTB16D should handle it ok..... If it were me I would put a resistive load in parallel with the valves. That could be a few C7 bulbs or C9 bulbs....This is not to protect the controller but rather the valves.
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abigroot wrote:

Is there some way that I can protect the boards?


Well to be sure, you can put an in-line quick burn fuse in the wires from the water valves to the controller. Maybe a 2 amp fuse or something like that. At least you won't have to worry about a surge from the valve.

Reason I say this is, I'm going to have to run an in-line fuse to each channel to satisfy the city requirements on the size wire while using 120v. Here in Oklahoma City, if your running smaller than 12 gage wire and it's 120v, you have to have it fused to the lower amps to pass code. At least this is what I was told. But at least it would protect my controllers.

Just a thought.

Tom
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So if I get this straight, could I actually put a few valves on one channel of an 8 channel board, only thig you would recommend is that I puta c-7 or c-9 in parrallel with it? By that I assume that I should hook one of the two wires coming from the valve to one wire of a c-7 c-9 string (or just a single light by cutting the string up?) and then to the controller. Then do the same with the other wire? Would the same thing be accomplished with a small resistor from radio shack across the leads as well?

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abigroot wrote:

........ By that I assume that I should hook one of the two wires coming from the valve to one wire of a c-7 c-9 string (or just a single light by cutting the string up?) and then to the controller. ........

NO!!!!

That is putting them in series.

Parrallel is like piggy-backing the plugs.
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OK, so the two leads of the valve go right into the controller as well as the two leads from the lights? Is there any amount of lights that I should string together? It might work out just as good if I am able to use a small section of rope light around the fountain at the same time the valve shoots. I plan on making a mini Belliago in my pond and these valves are only $28.00 through MSC Industrial Supply.

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Can anyone confirm or reject the fact that I should be putting a string of lights on the channel as well as the valve.

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What he is saying is that, in addition to the valve/solenoid you should also have, in parallel, a resistive load of some type. It think this is to provide a current path for the inductive spike that occures when the LOR switches on and off and help reduce the voltage that appears on the valve/solenoid.

I wonder, as an alternative, why couldn't we use an AC rated capacitor to shunt the high frequencies votage spikes to the return?

Your light/resistive load should be in parallel with your valve. So, yes you should put your light or string of lights on the same channel as the valve.



By the way, I also purchased 16 AC relays to have in parallel with every channel becuase my primary use is to control a haunted graveyard show with a synced soundtrack. Hope it works!!!

:-)

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Wiring a string of rope lights and a valve to a channel would not be a problem. The only concern is keeping water from entering the rope light core. I don't know how close to the water's surface (or under) you are planing on placing the rope. If you are planning for the rope light to be in the water I would use a transformer and 12 volt rope light. This has a 2" cut distance and moisture would not be a factor.

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So, using a 12V transformer, driven from the LOR, we still should add a resistive load to help save the transformer from inductive voltage problems I guess?

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abigroot wrote:

Can anyone confirm or reject the fact that I should be putting a string of lights on the channel as well as the valve.

Dan said a few so it does not have to be a whole string. One bulb might be enough but having 2 or 3 would be better in case one burns out.

TED
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Santas Helper wrote:

Reason I say this is, I'm going to have to run an in-line fuse to each channel to satisfy the city requirements on the size wire while using 120v.

You've got to be kidding!!??????????? Are you saying that they are going to inspect your Christmas display???

TED
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So, do folks in general add fuses to the channels? I guess and 8 amp would be what to use.

So what does everyone do? Do they try and limit each channel to like 2 amps for the sake of the channel bank? Or are they just careful with programming not to turn eveyrthing on at once?



Santas Helper wrote:

Reason I say this is, I'm going to have to run an in-line fuse to each channel to satisfy the city requirements on the size wire while using 120v. Here in Oklahoma City, if your running smaller than 12 gage wire and it's 120v, you have to have it fused to the lower amps to pass code. At least this is what I was told. But at least it would protect my controllers.
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