Santabob Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 I would like to know how you get lights to stay around windows on a Brick house ?
-klb- Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 I use 2 methods for my C9 bulbs. On rectangular windows I build a PVC frame that sits inside the brick, and gets fixed in place with 2 tapcon screws into the edges of the brick. For the arched window and entry arch, I hot glue the bases of the sockets to the brick.I have seen the PVC frame work very well with C6 strings. One could heat bend the PVC if you are doing C6 on arched windows.
Cray Augsburg Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 -klb- wrote: I use 2 methods for my C9 bulbs. On rectangular windows I build a PVC frame that sits inside the brick, and gets fixed in place with 2 tapcon screws into the edges of the brick. For the arched window and entry arch, I hot glue the bases of the sockets to the brick.I have seen the PVC frame work very well with C6 strings. One could heat bend the PVC if you are doing C6 on arched windows.I use the same method, except that I use painted 1x4 frames. No arches to deal with, but the hot glue thing seems to have worked for others. PVC . . . Hmmm . . .
Jeff 1S.A.H.D. Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 http://www.thewindowwonder.com/ I have never used them but the may work Jeff
mcnamara9 Posted October 23, 2009 Posted October 23, 2009 I have used hot glue before and you have to be careful with the heat loosening up the bond of the lights on the brick. IF it gets warm or the sun shines directly on it, they will loosen up and fall off the brick and you will have to reglue (which can be a pain). Just an FYI...(but also realize, I live in Arizona so it's still in the upper 80's in Nov. and Dec.)
Darryl Lambert Posted November 10, 2009 Posted November 10, 2009 I used drywall J-channel painted and a couple of screws on each piece into the brick.Then I screwed perma clips on to the J-channel. I use the same strings each year so I don't have to mess around with bulb spacing.:cool:Darryl Attached files
taybrynn Posted November 14, 2009 Posted November 14, 2009 I did have success using the hot glue last year, but I must say I'd like to know what the proper technique is, since I was basically putting globs onto the brick mortor, then just poking the light or wire into it. It was very messy, so I have to image there is a better way to do it more neatly. I did have to re-do a couple spots that came loose, but then it lasted for a month ... and was easy to remove and the glue mostly just came off when I pulled on the lights.p.s. I bought some of the brick attachments from hobby lobby ... but couldn't get them to work.I also tried the window wonders ... and wasn't very happy with them for outdoor use ... indoor use seems fine for static displays.
-klb- Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 My brick has bevels on the front, so when mortared in, there is no square space for the brick clips to have a chance to grab.For gluing on C9 sockets at the house, I just put a blob on the base of the socket, and stick it on the brick. The more of the face the better. I do have to come back after the season and pry off a fair bit of glue, but I don't generally worry much about it. This will plug the drains on the bases of the sockets, but when installed this way, it doesn't matter, and I use the same strings in the same place next year.
chipwdw Posted November 19, 2009 Posted November 19, 2009 i am now using 'clip strip' just about everywhere. i used urethane type adhesive from lowes and it seems to hold up pretty well in FL.http://www.liteclipstrip.comchip
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