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Cart Before the Horse?


jim6918

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It turns out that I underestimated the number of mini lights that it would take to build a mini tree that I liked. First thought 300 would look good, but 600 looks much better. LOL. The 18 mini trees are spread out among 3 controllers, and doubling the amps for the mini trees on those controllers (that are running other stuff) puts me a little too close for comfort. I have open channels on a couple of other controllers that could take some rearranging. I probably would be OK to leave things the way they are, but would rather make changes now than on December 1st.

I have already created and exported a channel configuration and completed a couple of small sequences. Would I be better off editing the configuration on those sequences and move a couple of lines of timings, or edit the master configuration and import into the previously completed sequences? Seems like I would still have to shuffle a few things around either way I go. What do the experts say? Surely this must have happened to a lot of you at one point in time.

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I would say edit the master config and reimport to the already completed sequences, at least that is what I do I have to do it every year for I change things a round a little bit and if I choose to use a sequence from the previous year I find it easier to reimport the config. Of course this is just my opinion, I am sure there are other ways but this is what works for me.



greg

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Of course I had forgotten about your utility, and I am glad you caught me before I made changes. I ran the two completed sequences thru and didn't even come close to 80% on and circuit.

It took me a minute to figure out what I was doing wrong with the utility, then it hit me that I am using Excel 2007 and had to save the channel list as a 97-2003 file. Good thing Office doesn't scare me. I was really blown away just how little amps the two squences were pulling overall.

This is a great utility. Thanks for doing the macro.

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I'll be glad when this first year is under my belt. I will have a better picture on power usage. It's a little difficult calculating amps just from published stats. Last night I brought home from my storage unit the sections of lights and garland that run along my split rail fence. I had generously estimated a draw of 2.8 amps per section, and was happy to find that they only pulled .8 amps. I am pretty sure I have estimated high on everything to keep me out of trouble.

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I would recommend three inexpensive test devices to add to your bag of tools.

1) KILL A WATT meter ($24) - you plug it into the "wall" then you plug lights (etc) into it and it will tell you the actual amp/wattage being used. Use real numbers in the calculating spreadsheets - not estimations.

2) GB Instruments Circuit Alert ($12) - hold it next to a wire and press the clip - it will beep if you have 120V AC present. Helps quickly isolate where the AC is not getting through.

3) GB Instruments GFI-501 ($9) - test 3 prong receptacles for proper polarity wiring, and GFCI circuits for proper wiring. Having the polarity reversed can cause an electrical shock hazard - why guess, test! Plus if you are using GFCI (you should be) - you can make sure the circuit pops using the test button.

All though some might not consider it a must - I always have an inexpensive digital multi-meter handy ($25 to 35).

Steve

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Thanks Steve. First thing I purchased was a Reliance AmWatt ammeter/wattmeter that does the same thing as a Kill a Watt. I have been bringing home from my two storage units sections of lights that I have used in the past and testing them to see how much power they draw. Only item I am not really sure of is the LED icicles that are on order. I had to estimate amps based on similar sets on sale at other vendors. Even there I estimated high so as to have a little wiggle room.

Will certainly investigate the purchase of the items #2 and #3. And, yes all circuits are GFCI protected at the LOR sub panel. Past experience with GFCI receptacles has taught me they can be a major failure point, so I have gone with GFCI breakers in the panel, although they are more expensive. I have fought with lighting situations in the past thinking I had an overload situation when it was a faulty GFCI receptacle. I am shooting for 100% reliability power wise.

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Jim,

I might be able to help you come close with your LED icicle light current requirements while you wait. What color LED are the icicle and What is the count. Yes color does matter in the LED. I have same count strings in different colors and some colors like the blue and gree draw twice as much as like red or yellow. My 70 count blue icicle lights draw .04 amps.

I hope this helps with your power calculations.

Chuck

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