LED compatible with LOR products

[Robbo]

Hi all,
I recently read here in forum that some LED do not perform well with LOR ie the fading etc ....

however I have a set of led lights string of 600 leds with built in controller, this has slow fade etc standard controller in it....now having said that is it safe to assume that if I set the built in controller to always on and use LOR to fade the leds that this will work?

If not what would the alternative be?

[Richard Hamilton]

Robbo wrote:

Hi all,
I recently read here in forum that some LED do not perform well with LOR ie the fading etc ....

however I have a set of led lights string of 600 leds with built in controller, this has slow fade etc standard controller in it....now having said that is it safe to assume that if I set the built in controller to always on and use LOR to fade the leds that this will work?

If not what would the alternative be?

I'm doubtful that it will work. Strings that have their own built-in controllers are usually designed to work at the full 120 vac line voltage. If the voltage varies by more than about 10%, it is likely not to work.

[Robbo]

Thanks for the reply Richard...however I'm even more confused (sorry). The lights I have are 12v lights does this make a difference? and also here in Australia we use 240v/50mhz system....

or is it easier to buy lights more suited to LOR if so what do I look for? I'd hate to go out and buy lights only to find out they wont do what I envisaged them doing.

Thanks
Robbo

[Richard Hamilton]

Robbo wrote:

Thanks for the reply Richard...however I'm even more confused (sorry). The lights I have are 12v lights does this make a difference? and also here in Australia we use 240v/50mhz system....

or is it easier to buy lights more suited to LOR if so what do I look for? I'd hate to go out and buy lights only to find out they wont do what I envisaged them doing.

Hi Robbo,

It's hard to answer that question without seeing the lights. When you say they are 12 volt lights, I am assumming you mean they are still plugged into the 240 VAC outlet and the voltage is dropped to 12 volts by electronics module on the string. My comments still apply. If you try dimming the lights with LOR, the box will see a lower operating voltage and may cease operation. Without knowing the electronics schematic of the parts inside that string, I don't think anyone can answer that question with confidence. And I bet that no drawing is available for it.

By the way, you mean 50 Hz, not 50 mHz (mega Hertz)

[Robbo]

Hi Richard and thank you for your persistence I am slowly starting to understand where you are coming from. You are correct when you say the lights have a transformer on them. So I guess there is a conversion in there somewhere as you say.

I am now assuming that the LOR controllers already have this drop in them therefore the transformer is only getting the lower voltage and not the 240 that is is used too...am I on the right track now?

I have just been surfing the web and found a few sites with light products and found c7's and c9's and other products that are mentioned in peoples posts and threads which makes more sense now lol...previously not knowing what c7's c9's etc were.

Having just looked a bit closer at the lights Richard I notice the following, the AC adapter has the following information on it:
PRI: 240V~50Hz
SEC: 24V~680mA 16.3VA

The lights plug into the AC adapter and can be disconnected from the adapter not sure if this is helpful or not but have included a pic for you to see in case I have missed something else.


Attached files

[Geoff Harvey]

Hi Robbo

The vast majority of US lights work on 110V AC supply and do not have the transformer adaptors used on most lights in Australia (or UK and other 240V countries). LOR can be used to turn these lights on and off, however, the controller you have has no memory and will usually turn on in the mode where it scans each mode sequentially. (From your description and pic, I assume these are KMart lights - I have a set also.) LOR cannot control the controller functions and can indeed have unexpected results if you try fading etc.

There have been discussions on disabling / removing controllers on the Aussie LOR group which I see you have joined. There was also some recent discussion along this topic on this group - see http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum79/17646.html but ignore the flaming. My contributions to the discussions provide my experiences regarding LOR and Aussie controllers together with links to some earlier discussions.

Hope this helps - Geoff

[Robbo]

Thanks Geoff,

I think I am getting there slowly...luckily it only hapens in the early stages of getting started and I thank all for any input given to myself at this stage...I have joined the aussie group as you have noticed and still looking through it for the answers I seek.

My greatest fear is just one that I will buy a heap of product only to find it wont do what I want it to do...hence why I am planning now for 2009, hopefully giving myself plenty time to learn what I need and how to use it and put together a few sequences...the sequences I have already started, thats assuming I go for the 32 channel starter kit....emphasis on the starter lol....it will get bigger gradually

[Richard Hamilton]

I thinkg Geoff answered your question.

And that photo shows me that it is nothing more than a simple stepdown transformer to cut the voltage from 240 vac to 24 volts for powering the lights and the microcontroller on your strings.

[Geoff Harvey]

Wrt the starter package - there are several on the LOR web site. Don't get one with leads - US leads are not compatable with Australian plugs.

I would suggest the generic starter package - software+coms hardware, then select the boards you want. Metal enclosures are heavy and expensive to ship. Many of the Aussie users have made their own enclosures and connected outlets using power boards or the female ends of extension cords.

Geoff

[Geoff Harvey]

Double post - sorry

Geoff