csimmon5 Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 This is my first light-o-rama controller purchase and I am unsure which way would be the best to go. I know I want to do 32 channels ( 2-16 channel controllers ) with at least 30 amps per controller. I notice a lot of guys on here go the DIY route. I have no problem with soldering. I guess my question is: What is the cheapest way to go? Heatsinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 I think you can answer you own question as far as what is cheapest by looking at the store. The PC series has available many options for assembly. From you doing all the soldering, up to completely assembled. The PC series is the only series that you can get that you do some of the assembly, that LOR has a enclosures for. If you go with the other boards, they you will need to find your own enclosure for it. As far as heatsink, that will be needed if you are considering loading the board to near max. With the heavy duty heat sinks you can go 8 amps per channel max or 15 amps per bank of 8 max.What I did when I first started purchasing boards, is I purchased a board already soldered up so that I had an example of how it should look. This year I ran 10 boards and all except one I did the soldering. All of mine are the CTB16 series. Just my preference. This was my 3rd year using LOR. Sure beats my home grown version from years ago.Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iresq Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 When you are figuring out cheapest, you need to take into account your time. I use all PC controllers. Some I built, others I've assembled. Building was OK and fun. It takes me about 4 hours start to finish. For $26 ($6.50/hr), I'd rather have the boards come assembled and tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 For me this is a hobby. I enjoy the building the boards. Would I keep track of my time if my hobby were to go play golf, or build a race car?Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyfunk Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 iresq wrote: When you are figuring out cheapest, you need to take into account your time. I use all PC controllers. Some I built, others I've assembled. Building was OK and fun. It takes me about 4 hours start to finish. For $26 ($6.50/hr), I'd rather have the boards come assembled and tested.I feel the same. It takes about four hours to save $26. That's four hours I could be doing something else, even working, considering I bill $80 an hour. I did build two boards so... been there; done that.At this point, I'd rather spend the four hours building arches or some other display item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csimmon5 Posted December 21, 2008 Author Share Posted December 21, 2008 Thanks for the help. And most of you just buy the cheap $1 ext. cords to use as the outputs?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iresq Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 I use the cheap $1 cords and splice wire to them. Works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponddude Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 A lot of this is going to depend on what you want to do now, or eventually do. I know I started in this just wanting to control the lights. Now I am so addicted that I plan on controlling servos, adding trigger inputs as well as adding video. I was going to simply buy the CTB08D to control the servos, then LOR announced the release of the I/O board, and I got even more excited. When you are starting, don't just think of the present, think of the things that you want to add. I don't think you can find an LOR customer that hasn't purchased at least one other controller every year....present company included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddmoon Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 I opted to purchase a board that was already assembled except for the power cords and enclosure. I built my own cords which was much more expensive than buying the $1 cords and splicing into the board.I started with a 16 channel system this year and now that I have a handle on things I will be purchasing another system for next year. I will also be hard wiring the ethernet and sound system into my home. I ran everything temporary this year just in case I did not like things.I have some many ideas and there is just so much to do. I did not start this year until just before Thanksgiving so I was under a time crunch. This year I will start my planning and design now and I will also be purchasing power cords and lights as time and money permit.Power cords were never enough this year. You really do need to plan for where and how you want things and figure out your power cord needs and distances.I will also be upgrading to a FM transmitter for next year as well. Oh, so many ideas and at least this year I have more time to plan and get ready. Music does make a big difference to me. Getting a handle on the programming and timing to music helps a lot. Importing is ok, but I like to make my light show shine so you still send a lot of time polishing the programming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hertig Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 csimmon5 wrote: This is my first light-o-rama controller purchase and I am unsure which way would be the best to go. I know I want to do 32 channels ( 2-16 channel controllers ) with at least 30 amps per controller. I notice a lot of guys on here go the DIY route. I have no problem with soldering. I guess my question is: What is the cheapest way to go? Heatsinks?Keep in mind that if you are going to use 30 amps per controller, you will need 4 dedicated 15 amp circuits to plug the controllers into. If you don't have these already, factor this into your cost.I put in AC a while back, so had the room and power for additional circuits in my main breaker box. Currently I'm running 2 20 amp circuits for the display (One I put in specifically for Christmas decorations and one I put in for a future garage conversion, but now use because 1 20 amp circuit was not enough). I also put in an RV outlet, which I can make an adapter for if 2 circuits are not enough (although they were marginal for my static display, not everything is on at once with LOR).If you have the empty slots and power, and can do the work yourself, adding circuits is not too bad, just the cost of wire, outlets and breakers. Having a professional do it would be more, but possibly not too bad. If you have to replace your main, that can be pricey.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddmoon Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I ran a power service to the other end of my house for an AC system that I never installed. So I have a 100 amp 220 V service available to me on the far side of my home where I like to some of my displays. Additionally I turned my shop into a game room so I have a 100 amp sub panel available with two empty circuits for me to use that I am going to wire for my LOR system for next year.This year I ran two different power cords from different legs of my house to power my LOR system and a third power cord from a third leg of my home for my static display.I am going to add to my LOR system for my 2009 show so I am going to add some 220 outlets that I will use as 110 power system with a SO cable power cord that I will plug in for a sub panel plug in for the light show and then when it is over I can unplug and roll up so things are nice and clean during the rest of the year.I will post pictures once I have this setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanward Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 As stated, I think running the proper house wiring and GFCI receptacles and breakers (in the breaker panel) is the most expensive and a very important part of this "game."I opted to do everything myself, including the PCB assembly, which was the easiest part. Adding more breakers to the main panel and keeping everything up to code (junction boxes in the attic, correct size romex, etc.) is the more expensive and a bit more difficult part (sweating up in the attic in mid-afternoon).Stan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iresq Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 John Hertig wroteKeep in mind that if you are going to use 30 amps per controller, you will need 4 dedicated 15 amp circuits to plug the controllers into. If you don't have these already, factor this into your cost. Not necessarily. You need to understand your power needs to properly to asses your power supply. I run 4 boards off of 2 20 amp circuits and I have plenty of room left (LED's).Additionally, using the 80% rule, if you are pulling the full 15 amps per side, you should have these connected to 20 amp circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddmoon Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I agree with your assessment. However I have a penchant for the Chevy Chase Christmas thing and now with the whole LOR thing I have moved to a new level of idea's and concepts for displays.I have the capacity for the additional power loads and I am thinking forward to the future as well. I will need more power and outlets so I am doing things all to code and wiring for my future needs.It never hurts to have options and I really do not like crawling around in my attic so I will at least wire things to an outside connection point and then add as needed later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I admit I didn't actually calculate my power requiremests .Here's how I connect to 4 controllers that control 60 C7 candlesticks, 4 strings of 300-bulb icicles, 20 more C7 bulbs, about 2 dozen strings of mini lights, 10 more C7 luminaries, 6 candy canes, 2 wire frame deer, 3 wire frame presents, 12 curtain strobes, and a whole bunch of LEDs.This is all plugged into a GFCI-protected outlet that also powers the garden lights (which are not on when the Christmas lights are, thankfully!)The result? No circuit breaker trips, and only 1 GFCI trip. I must be doing something right! By the way, the orange cord you see is 2-wire (with no ground) that I bought cheap at a clearance sale at a hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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