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How to Set Dip Switches


juricta

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I just purchased a MATRIX prop and set it up.  Later I purchased a Pixie8 controller.  ALL dip switches are set to OFF (from factory). According to instruction with the controller I have to set dip switches by using the Hardware Utility (HU).

1.  Why can't I set the dip switches manually in the controller?

2.  How do I set the dip switches; what numbers (1 or 0) do I set them to; How do I find/set the unit id

Once I have everything set, I am marking all controllers and wires so they will not change next year.

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1 hour ago, juricta said:

I just purchased a MATRIX prop and set it up.  Later I purchased a Pixie8 controller.  ALL dip switches are set to OFF (from factory). According to instruction with the controller I have to set dip switches by using the Hardware Utility (HU).

1.  Why can't I set the dip switches manually in the controller?

2.  How do I set the dip switches; what numbers (1 or 0) do I set them to; How do I find/set the unit id

Once I have everything set, I am marking all controllers and wires so they will not change next year.

All switches OFF, you  CAN use the HU so set the ID if you don't want to use the switches. (FWIW, the chart that Jimhc shows is near the back of the users guide. It is unusual that LOR shipped all Off. The default is ID 01 )

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On a lot of the LOR controllers, you can set the Unit ID either from the Hardware Utility or via DIP or rotary switches.  If that particular controller does not have DIP or rotary switches, you MUST set the Unit ID using the HU.  If there are hardware switches, you can set the Unit ID either from the HU or the switches.  If you want to use the HU, you need to set the switches to 00.  Even if you use the hardware switches, you can change the Unit ID via the HU with one important note.  If the hardware switches are set to anything except 00, the card will read the switches at powerup and that will override whatever was set in the HU.  In other words, if for example, the hardware switches are set to Unit ID 15, and you decide to change it using the HU to Unit ID 28, it will operate as Unit ID 28 - UNTIL THE NEXT POWER CYCLE.  At that time the switches will be read and it will revert to being Unit ID 15.

 

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Thank you ALL for your help.  I am learning and you have made this easier.

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I set all my dip switches to 0 and use HU to set.

Just what I do. Has worked great for 10 years!

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8 hours ago, Vince4xmas said:

I set all my dip switches to 0 and use HU to set.

Just what I do. Has worked great for 10 years!

I 2nd this option!  It's how my Pixie 2D's, 4D'6 and 16D's are all set via the HU.  All ny DIP switches in all my Pixie Controllers are all OFF, just makes it easier if I do need to change a units ID #[s].

 

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I use the switches on all my CCP2s, Pixie8D and 16D for as long as they have come with DIP switches. I have never had an issue. 

 

7 hours ago, Orville said:

I 2nd this option!  It's how my Pixie 2D's, 4D'6 and 16D's are all set via the HU.  All ny DIP switches in all my Pixie Controllers are all OFF, just makes it easier if I do need to change a units ID #[s].

I am a bit curious as to how using the HU over DIP switches makes it easier? I am always open to the possibility of doing things easier with my show. Thanks

Kenny

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28 minutes ago, Box on Rails said:

I use the switches on all my CCP2s, Pixie8D and 16D for as long as they have come with DIP switches. I have never had an issue. 

 

I am a bit curious as to how using the HU over DIP switches makes it easier? I am always open to the possibility of doing things easier with my show. Thanks

Kenny

Neither one is really easier then the other. On the other hand, the HU settings sometimes will not take and can be a pain in the arse at times.

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Once again, thank you all.  I was having problems letting HU set the options and the Matrix would not work.  I went back and set the unit id dip switches and now it all works perfectly.

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1 hour ago, Mr. P said:

Neither one is really easier then the other. On the other hand, the HU settings sometimes will not take and can be a pain in the arse at times.

I have had intermittant issues with HU making updates when the controller is not the only one on the cable. This was NOT a address clash . It seemed I had the  more with Pixies than the CTB16

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17 hours ago, TheDucks said:

I have had intermittant issues with HU making updates when the controller is not the only one on the cable. This was NOT a address clash . It seemed I had the  more with Pixies than the CTB16

Agree TheDucks.   If folks READ the manual, LOR has always stated best to set Controller ID's with ONLY ONE [1] CONTROLLER connected via cat5 and HU, otherwise it could either cause all units to change to the same ID, or might not take correctly.

All my controllers are set up with a way to disconnect the cat5 from OUTSIDE the unit, not having to open the controller lid to access inside to make changes.  

Therefore, making it easier to disconnect that one controller from the chain and set it independantly of the rest via the HU.

Mainly easier for older CCB100D 5V, and the Pixie2D 12V controllers where you have to remove 8 screws, then take the lid off to access the DIP switches, if the controller uses them.

I don't recall if the original 5V CCB100D does or not, haven't had to open one of those in years now.  I still use a couple of the CCB100D's in my show.  Mostly 12V Pixies used now.

But, that's why using the HU works easier and best for me. 

All depends on what the end user prefers to use.

 

Edited by Orville
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