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Wrong channels playing


Tim Storey
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I'm using S4. I originally had 9 controllers, but did not need controller 1, so I configured 2-9. I had my mega tree working on 7-8-9, 16 channels each, R,G,W. Tried a sequence on it - - - all channels working. 

Today, I got all the other controllers configured, CAT5's plugged in. Tried running a sequence. Lights are working, but now on the mega tree, greens (#8) are not coming on at all, when whites (#9) are signaled, both green and white channels come on. Reds work (#7).

No cables were moved and all are plugged in to correct controllers. I ran verifier. It showed 39 warnings but they were all just saying channel is completely off or channel is missing settings. But all of these channels are either the first 16 from controller 1 that I'm not using (don't even have it connected or configured) or they are just beat channels.  

Any idea what might cause this?

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Note that a lot of stuff does not work right in the S5 Verifier.

A couple questions.  First, what is the order of controllers on the network?  No, it should not matter, but may help in troubleshooting.

What is the network speed, and since you have an Advanced license, I assume it is NOT Enhanced.?

What kind of controllers?

If you run the Hardware Utility, does it see all the controllers?

Can you control lights from the Hardware Utility?

Note, some of these questions may not matter, but most may supply clues, so please answer all of my questions.

 

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Thanks Jim.

I am licensed for S5 but am using 4.4.16 and the S4 verifier. Not using advanced or enhanced. 

The controller order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.  #1 is not hooked up or in use at all. I run from the dongle on lap top straight to #2, then daisy chain the others in order. 

Speed - 57.6K

Hardware utility sees all the controllers. I was able to control the lights on all the controllers from Hardware utility. However, that was before I connected them all together. It's my understanding that I can't control the controllers using Hardware utility after I've daisy chained them and that I have to do one at a time with no data out connections between controllers?? Sorry, I've been out of this for several years. 

Before today I had configured 7,8,9 for the mega tree and was able to control them using a sequence - all channels working. Once I got the rest of the controllers daisy chained today is when the problems with green (#8) and white (#9) started. 

 

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16 minutes ago, Tim Storey said:

It's my understanding that I can't control the controllers using Hardware utility after I've daisy chained them and that I have to do one at a time with no data out connections between controllers??

Nope,  You can control the controllers on a chain from the Hardware Utility.  There are a couple things that you can't (or shouldn't) do with multiple controllers connected such as "Change Existing ID" with "Any Unit" as the Old Unit ID, and Firmware updates should generally be done with one one controller connected.

 

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I'm going with something strange is going on here.  Just for grins, can you re-order the controllers so 7-9 are not at the end of the network (at least for a test)?  No that does not matter, but wondering about a data comm issue.  What are the controllers?

 

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Brian Mitchell

To me , it sounds like the channels are not configured correctly in the sequence. I would check that again. 

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Except that he said the same sequence played correctly when only some controllers were connected.

 

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12 hours ago, k6ccc said:

I'm going with something strange is going on here.  Just for grins, can you re-order the controllers so 7-9 are not at the end of the network (at least for a test)?  No that does not matter, but wondering about a data comm issue.  What are the controllers?

 

#9 is a 1602W, all the rest are CTB16PC type controllers.  I'm at work today so I won't be able to try any fixes until later. Also, I'm on crutches. Hurt my knee while installing lights on the roof. #2 & 3 are on the roof. I can change order of controllers or re-configure any on the ground (4-9). If I need to access roof, I'll have to get someone to help me. This weekend I brought 6 of my electrical apprentices in to help me finish putting all the lights up, getting all the controllers set and data cables installed. 

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13 hours ago, k6ccc said:

Except that he said the same sequence played correctly when only some controllers were connected.

 

I think I have it figured out now that I know I can run Hardware Utility with all the controllers connected. I ran it tonight and it is not recognizing #9, which is the 1602W, and is the whites. When I configured it I found it with "refresh", but it wasn't seeing it until then. Then I remembered the 1602W has dip switches, so I went and changed them to 0-9, or I thought I did. It was dark and I was having trouble seeing because the controller is mounted about 1' above the ground and it was dark. I bet I missed the 2nd dip switch setting by a number. I'm going to try reconfiguring tomorrow and resetting the dip switches. 

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Thanks for the help. It was the dip switch set on the wrong number. 

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Hi Tim, 

I am having similar issues. My husband typically does all of this but I am trying to help figure out the issue. What is a dip switch?

 

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He's referring to the switches on the board that set the controller Unit ID.  some controllers have DIP switches, some have rotary switches, and some have not switches and you have to set the Unit ID with the Hardware Utility.  Controllers that have switches can also be set with the Hardware Utility HOWEVER, when the controller looses power and powered back up, controllers with switches will read the switches and over-ride settings done in the Hardware Utility.

 

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1 minute ago, ncarter1105 said:

Hi Tim, 

I am having similar issues. My husband typically does all of this but I am trying to help figure out the issue. What is a dip switch?

 

Dual Inline Package Switch. was designed to fit in place of an (old) style IC. it typically has 7 or 8 white sliders or rockers.

All the LOR controllers I have, only have 1, so should not be hard to spot

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2 hours ago, k6ccc said:

He's referring to the switches on the board that set the controller Unit ID.  some controllers have DIP switches, some have rotary switches, and some have not switches and you have to set the Unit ID with the Hardware Utility.  Controllers that have switches can also be set with the Hardware Utility HOWEVER, when the controller looses power and powered back up, controllers with switches will read the switches and over-ride settings done in the Hardware Utility.

 

That makes sense, we do not have swtiches on our controllers, they are done inside HU. 

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I may be calling them the wrong thing. They're probably rotary switches as Jim said. They're on the 1602W because it is designed to run as a stand alone unit without needing a computer to run the show, as long as you have the Showtime Director with it. In my case I'm just using it as controller #8. Because i had to stoop down about 1' off the ground and my eyesight is not so good, I set the switches at 0-9 and they should have been at 0-8. Even after I did this HU did not identify the unit correctly so I had to change the unit ID in HU. After that everything started working fine. 

You can see in the picture the two rectangular, white objects next to the 2 CAT5 cables - that's the switches. 

Rotary Switches.jpeg

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Those rotary switches can be tricky.  Speaking form experience, when your eyesight is not as good as it used to be it is very difficult to see the little triangle/arrow that points to the number.  

Years ago when I was having issues with one of my older controllers, the folks at LOR suggested that I rotate the switches a few times.  The idea was that there could be some corrosion on the contacts and spinning them a few times would remove that corrosion. 

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Either kind does the same thing  Rotary happen to be labeled in Hex, you need to use the chart in the book if you are not familiar with Binary coded Hex

Stand alone has nothing to do with the switches other than they need to match the sequence

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On 12/8/2021 at 11:28 AM, basis21b said:

Those rotary switches can be tricky.  Speaking form experience, when your eyesight is not as good as it used to be it is very difficult to see the little triangle/arrow that points to the number.  

Years ago when I was having issues with one of my older controllers, the folks at LOR suggested that I rotate the switches a few times.  The idea was that there could be some corrosion on the contacts and spinning them a few times would remove that corrosion. 

That's where a nice sharp point Black Sharpie marker comes in to play.  Switches like that I always got a magnifying glass and put a black spot where the triangle is.  Then I know exactly where the pointer is at.

Edited by Orville
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