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My first mega tree (a small one) and I am confused creating the prop..


Donl1150

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I am trying to create my first mega tree prop in S5.  It will be a small tree - 4 ft tall.  I want it to be 360 degrees and I plan on using 8 strings of 50 pixels each.  At 2” spacing, it works out perfectly to have each string up and down creating two legs of 25 pixels each.

I am confused by the selections I need to make in the Prop Definition window.  Here is what I have selected, is this correct?

Left Column:

     - RGB pixels, no motion effects

Center Column:

     - Tree 360 wedges

     - Actual # strings = 8

     - Nodes per string = 50

     - Folds in each string = 1

     - Truncate cone % = 0

     - Tilt forward = 0

     - Motion effect start = 0

     - Quarters = 4

Right Column

     - Select AUX network

     - Insert correct Unit ID and the remainder auto-number

Then when I import it to my preview I can begin sequencing with it?

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Thanks Jim.  Logic told me it was probably right and you've confirmed. 

So now I have imported into my preview and I see the one line for the prop, totally crosshatched.  I left click on the item and "Enable Channel Level on Pixel Prop".  This creates a single row for each of the 400 nodes. (25 rows x 16 columns).  And then those can be further opened up to show the RGB channels creating 1200 rows.

I know how to create Groups and sequence each individual color/node etc.  I think I know how to proceed to manually sequence individual nodes for a song but certainly there must be a better, easier way.  I have searched for some training videos but the Luminous Harmony ones don't seem to have one unless I missed it.  Any guidance at this point is much appreciated.

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So I think if I consider the mega tree as a matrix - just angled at the top - I need to learn about how matrixes are sequenced.  The L Harmony videos talking about Motion Effect rows are nice but she goes quite fast and more at a 'high level' of where things are and what they do.  I am probably searching for something that isn't out there.  If I could watch someone click step-by-step to create say.....a spinning effect on the tree........I would learn it much quicker.  Looks like the old 'trial & error' method for me.  Good thing it is still August!

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Hello! I am the creator of those videos you've been watching. You definitely do not want to sequence at a channel level for RGB - it's not efficient in S5. Watch the tutorial on motion effect rows and get those created, then right below that in the playlist, there are multiple videos about "Motion Effects" that will teach you how to actually create your effects. They're in the order that they should be watched. Good luck!

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Thank for responding Aubrey.  Although I couldn't find the series of ME videos you reference, I think I have figured out the basics of how the ME generator works.  I have finished adding my two new pixel trees to an existing sequence and used the generator to incorporate them into the song.  The result looks pretty darn good.  By the time I do the same for my remaining 10 sequences, I should become fairly proficient (I hope) using ME and pixels in general.  I think my show this year will be a nice step up from last year.

I hope to attend one of your on-line sessions one of these days when I find the time.  Thx.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have my 2 mega trees put together and have begun testing them.  They are each 8 strings of 50 folded in half to create 2 16 string trees - about 4' tall.  I guess I will call these Mini Trees.

I am using a Pixie 16 that has 2 power supplies, one for each bank of 8.  One side apparently blew 3 fuses and the other side blew one.  They are all 4A spade type fuses.

I tested them one port at a time so it seems odd that 4 would pop a fuse.  I was using a single color but it was at 100%.  So I have a couple of questions:

  1. Where is a good source for replacement blade fuses?
  2. Do I need to stay with 4A or could I go a bit higher.....say 5A or 7.5A?
  3. What would cause them to pop like that?  I checked all the connections and they are tight.

 

Thanks

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First I would check your connections. Ensure +, - and data are correct on the green terminal lugs - more than Like you boogered that up.

There is no way if yoi followed my build you would blow a fuse with that many pixels- no way if built correctly

2- Auto parts store for fuses

Now if you connected all Of your lights together to one port and all white 100% then yes but never with 100 at 100%

DO NOT change the fuse amp!

JR

Edited by dibblejr
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5 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

2 - Auto parts store for fuses

 

Or Amazon.  I think I bought 50 5A fuses from Amazon for about the same price as less than 10 from the local Auto Parts store.  Same brand of fuses too.

 

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3 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

First I would check your connections.

There is no way if yoi followed my build you would blow a fuse with that many pixels- no way if built correctly

2- Auto parts store for fuses

JR

 

1 minute ago, k6ccc said:

 

Or Amazon.  I think I bought 50 5A fuses from Amazon for about the same price as less than 10 from the local Auto Parts store.  Same brand of fuses too.

 

I would not recommend changing the AMPs to 5a

They are 4a from factory

More thaN likely his connections + and - are backwards

 

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3 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

 

I would not recommend changing the AMPs to 5a

They are 4a from factory

More thaN likely his connections + and - are backwards

 

I was not suggesting changing the fuse size.  Most pixel controllers (other than Pixie) use 5A fuses - hence the reason I stocked up on them.

I would agree that if he blew a bunch of fuses on a new controller and strings that there is a wiring error.

 

Edited by k6ccc
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UPDATE 9/9/21

I double checked my wiring and DID discover two mistakes.  1) One string was wired with a plug on both ends of the 50 pixels and 2) One string had the ground and power wires reversed.  All others were wired properly.

Somewhere along the line in my testing, I would up blowing 4 of the 16 fuses.  I am having GREAT difficulty finding these 4A fuses locally but I believe I finally found some at both Grainger & Amazon.  I ordered a bunch from each and should arrive in a few days.

I am hoping I have not blown out any circuits on the board but if I have, does LOR have the ability to repair a board or would I have to order a new one?

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Crossing the streams (wires) will guarantee a blown fuse. We've all been there. In my case the lights and the E1.31 controller were fine after a new fuse. I had some connectors which were wired backwards. Lost a lot of hair over that.

I would triple check the connections again and then once more before proceeding.

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59 minutes ago, Donl1150 said:

UPDATE 9/9/21

I double checked my wiring and DID discover two mistakes.  1) One string was wired with a plug on both ends of the 50 pixels and 2) One string had the ground and power wires reversed.  All others were wired properly.

Somewhere along the line in my testing, I would up blowing 4 of the 16 fuses.  I am having GREAT difficulty finding these 4A fuses locally but I believe I finally found some at both Grainger & Amazon.  I ordered a bunch from each and should arrive in a few days.

I am hoping I have not blown out any circuits on the board but if I have, does LOR have the ability to repair a board or would I have to order a new one?

As long as you didn’t plug directly to your computer comm port without the adapter the blown fuses will not cause any other problems.

That is their job, blow to protect the circuitry.

You should never need any again. I’ve only blown 1 by mistake and 1 on purpose for testing.

Glad you got it.

JR

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