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Can anyone tell me what is wrong?


scubanimal

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Hello all,

   I’m trying to do pixel strips for the first time this year, and need to splice in wire to do 90 degree bends.  I bought several pixels strips from lightorama 3 strand 12 volt.  The initial part of the strip lights up just fine on command (HW utility) but the next section only the first 3 are on, but not a real color.  Once the strip has been turned on these three do not turn off.   These leds are barely on so in the photo it’s hard to see. The first part of the strip is very bright.   I’m fairly sure this is an error condition but can’t find what it is.  I’ve tried several different connectors, cut the trailing strip several times, cleaned it, tested it with a voltmeter.  Nothing is coming up wrong that I can see but it’s not working. 
   Thoughts or suggestions are most welcome.....thank you

  Ian 

4337ED85-0768-4105-B457-4AD44F1C587D.jpeg

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From your photo, it looks like you are using those almost worthless clip on couplers.  That is likely your problem.  Those things are total garbage. 

Did all the strings work properly before you cut and spliced them?

 

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Looking at the photo, it looks almost like you have a 4-wire strip and not a 3-wire. Please confirm 3 wire but the count of the small joining strips between each segment. As Jim said, the adapters are difficult to use, plus they are not waterproof. Those adapters also are very width dependent therefore you have to insure the correct ones or trim the strips as needed if the adapter is too small. I have them too but I gave up trying to use them and simply solder wires. Even that, is touchy to do, using the correct heat, flux and a very steady hand.

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I concur that the those jumper/joiners are garbage.  Soldered leads are the only way.

My first year with Dumb RGB, I bought all sorts of these push-on things. They do NOT work well with weather proofed strips (even after I cut tat away and cleaned the contacts)

@dgrant They are SMART. (see the arrow) I suspect the power is really poor (low), thus they fail to respond properly.  5V strips would be really sensitive

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I have LPD6803's which are smart 4-wire types, same as LOR's CCR's. +, -, clk and data are all used

Edited by dgrant
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31 minutes ago, dgrant said:

I have LPD6803's which are smart 4-wire types, same as LOR's CCR's. +, -, clk and data are all used

 🥴 4 wire strips it is. (I can see 4 pads the next section)  How did the OP miss that difference when fitting the jump ?

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Hello,

   First thank you for taking the time to respond.      Let me set this straight, they are 3-wire strips,  looking at the photo here I can see why you might think otherwise, but it really is a 3 wire LED.  Yes, it did work before cutting, and actually worked when I first put this set of connectors on.  But as pointed out they are not optimal.   I tried to solder (failed misserably),  For reasons that escape me the solder would not adhere to the gold spots there.  I've ordered a new soldering iron, but as my hands shake this is going to be tough even if I can get it to work.   (any one know a good video on doing that, all one examples I've seen just works).   If there are a better connectors I would love to hear about them.   

  But back to my original question, only the 3 immediate LEDs post the connection light up (but are faint), they do not have the assigned color, and stay lite after I've 'turned lights off' (hardware utility).      My question really is what does that mean?  I keep cutting off sections of the remaining tape and that is not working, I've tested the connector (and alternative).  

 

Thank you,

        Ian 

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2 minutes ago, scubanimal said:

Hello,

   First thank you for taking the time to respond.      Let me set this straight, they are 3-wire strips,  looking at the photo here I can see why you might think otherwise, but it really is a 3 wire LED.  Yes, it did work before cutting, and actually worked when I first put this set of connectors on.  But as pointed out they are not optimal.   I tried to solder (failed misserably),  For reasons that escape me the solder would not adhere to the gold spots there.  I've ordered a new soldering iron, but as my hands shake this is going to be tough even if I can get it to work.   (any one know a good video on doing that, all one examples I've seen just works).   If there are a better connectors I would love to hear about them.   

  But back to my original question, only the 3 immediate LEDs post the connection light up (but are faint), they do not have the assigned color, and stay lite after I've 'turned lights off' (hardware utility).      My question really is what does that mean?  I keep cutting off sections of the remaining tape and that is not working, I've tested the connector (and alternative).  

 

Thank you,

        Ian 

What voltage?  Your symptom is insufficient voltage (been there). There may be a film on the pads preventing solder taking. Alcohol (90%) ,Acetone or MEK (these last 2  REALLY eats plastic, so test before using)

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One tip when soldering wires to strips. Attach the wires to opposite sides alternating so you have a little more space to work with.

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Just now, PhilMassey said:

One tip when soldering wires to strips. Attach the wires to opposite sides alternating so you have a little more space to work with.

Yes, that makes it far easier.

 

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Ducks,

     Yes, you are right, the dim lights are very similar to what happens if using a 5v PS on 12v lights.  This though is a 12v PS, and the first part of the strips lights up great.  Its just the next 3 that have the low light, and I should clarify, no lights post those 3 light up at all.   

Thank you,

Ian

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Please insure you haven't shorted any of the three solder tabs together. Use a magnifying glass if needed. DO NOT touch the soldering iron to the wires/tabs if they are connected to the system. Make sure its disconnected first.

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Thank you dgrant.  I'm going to try soldering again.  My current issue, the joints are fresh (never had an iron near them), but it sounds like I have to try again and appreciate the advice.  Something tells me my current strip is a good practice set as I'm guessing the 2nd half of the strip is now bad. 

Ian 

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If you have solder flux, it makes life a lot easier. Do not overheat the connection but heat enough for the solder to flow.

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