Sctiger Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 I'm intrigued at the idea of the RGB floods but am totally lost. I'm doing good just to get my LEDs to work 😂. I noticed that others have said that building the enclosure for the CMB24D controller could be accomplished in 15 minutes (you clearly overestimate my abilities!). What power supplies have you used/would recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 (edited) 50 minutes ago, Sctiger said: I'm intrigued at the idea of the RGB floods but am totally lost. I'm doing good just to get my LEDs to work 😂. I noticed that others have said that building the enclosure for the CMB24D controller could be accomplished in 15 minutes (you clearly overestimate my abilities!). What power supplies have you used/would recommend? First it depends on what RGB floods you are talking about. The CMB series cannot be used with the 50 watt RGB floods. Sounds like you read one of my other posts, I have built many many controllers so I can build them very fast as you will see in the video. Remember I also have all of the parts on hand along with the tools. Makes it very easy. The video below is of a pixie4 that is part 1. You can find the rest there as well. No difference in the construction of any of the LOR Pixel controllers as far as the build. For the cmb I would recommend a 500W power supply but you may be able to get by with a common 350w depending on what you are driving. As far as mfg, they are mostly all made in China. I gave never had one fail. For the 50W RGB I would recommend the pixie4,8,16 for ease of use. Secondly, follow my video tutorial  Edited August 9, 2019 by dibblejr 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluMan Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 You can do it! And in 15 minutes. Here's how for the 10 watt Flood Lights: http://store.lightorama.com/moplcm.html Linked above is the mounting plate for the CMB24D and a power supply (listed below) http://store.lightorama.com/1260waposu.html Linked above this is the Power Supply that I use to run the Floods lights. With those two things and the enclosure, it's about as simple as it can get OR you can have it already put together from Light O Rama if you don't want to even try: http://store.lightorama.com/10wrgbflplpa.html  1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Since this is LORs forum I will agree with the links posted above. However, if you do your research you can find all the parts way cheaper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 4 minutes ago, Mr. P said: Since this is LORs forum I will agree with the links posted above. However, if you do your research you can find all the parts way cheaper. The links are good but It would depend on how the OP wants his controller set up. LOR doesn't sell the power supplies that would mount inside the enclosure. They also don't sell any of the components/ accessories that help tidy things up a bit. The only lights I have that do not have everything in one controller box are the 50w RGB floods. I mount the external power supplies to the framework that hold my circles and floods in place. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluMan Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 1 hour ago, Mr. P said: Since this is LORs forum I will agree with the links posted above. However, if you do your research you can find all the parts way cheaper. Oh I totally agree. There are many cheaper alternatives...I was just giving him a simple, quick, easy (not always the cheapest) way of doing it with almost no labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 If you are only running the 8 Flood bundle, you only need 100W (leaves proper 100% duty headroom). A CMB24 can handle up to 30A /bank NTE 4A per channel . ya can'na load (on at the same time) all outputs in a bank to the max: 48A , but you could gang (parallel), 4 floods per RGB port (LOR sells a Y for the 10W floods. 2 pigtails+ 2 Y's) I have 2 CMB24's in a CG1500 with a W/P 400W PSU on the outside (back). (I wanted control, rather than bulk 😛 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sctiger Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019  On 8/9/2019 at 11:23 AM, TheDucks said: If you are only running the 8 Flood bundle, you only need 100W (leaves proper 100% duty headroom). A CMB24 can handle up to 30A /bank NTE 4A per channel . ya can'na load (on at the same time) all outputs in a bank to the max: 48A , but you could gang (parallel), 4 floods per RGB port (LOR sells a Y for the 10W floods. 2 pigtails+ 2 Y's) I have 2 CMB24's in a CG1500 with a W/P 400W PSU on the outside (back). (I wanted control, rather than bulk 😛 ) Yikes! I got lost just reading your response so maybe the 8 flood bundle is my best option 😂. I was looking at the 10w floods but I really don't need 8! I really don't know what I'd do with 2! Lol Thanks for all the input guys...I think! 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 2 hours ago, Sctiger said:  Yikes! I got lost just reading your response so maybe the 8 flood bundle is my best option 😂. I was looking at the 10w floods but I really don't need 8! I really don't know what I'd do with 2! Lol Thanks for all the input guys...I think! 😉 You will always find another use for a flood I added 2 more to my bundle (now 10 on 8 chan) because an area was a little darker than I wanted due to the shape of the house at that usage point. BTW I actually run 2 sets of a [CMB24 and a gen1 Pixie4 +400WPSU in a CG1500]: 4/6 floods and smart RGB on the gutter line. This keep cable short and minimizes cords crossing walkways Spares are GOOD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 5 hours ago, TheDucks said: You will always find another use for a flood That is true! 5 hours ago, TheDucks said: Spares are GOOD + about 10,000 It's panic time when you discover three hours before opening night that whatever device has failed - and it's NOT something you can get at your local store. Much easier when you can just dig into your storage location and grab the extra one.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sctiger Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 On 8/9/2019 at 8:17 AM, Mr. P said: Since this is LORs forum I will agree with the links posted above. However, if you do your research you can find all the parts way cheaper. A purely hypothetical question since this is the LOR website 😒, but what terms would I search for relating to power supplies? I noticed the one linked above has spade connectors on the outputs for easy attachment to the CMB24. Do most power supplies have this? I'm just afraid that I won't be comparing apples to apples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 1 hour ago, Sctiger said: A purely hypothetical question since this is the LOR website 😒, but what terms would I search for relating to power supplies? I noticed the one linked above has spade connectors on the outputs for easy attachment to the CMB24. Do most power supplies have this? I'm just afraid that I won't be comparing apples to apples. If you watch my video, my power supplies do not come with wiring. You must decide what you want to do as far as that. They are easy to wire up. You MUST match the PS to the watts you will be using for your controller/ lights. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Power supply matching: Output Watts should always exceed maximum load. (lets not get crazy here) For a CMB24 bundle (8 @ 10W floods)80W + 20% headroom for continuous operation + 100W MINIMUM. The reason for not using a 1000W supply here is the supply would probably have problems keeping the voltage under control with all light off (12V typically is +/- 10% ).. No load tolerant supplies get $$ than the cheaper ones. A car battery could supply 100W (if needed), but chemicals provide the regulation, so that would not be a problem. Back to the CM24 You have 2 banks that can be powered independently (and at different voltages if needed). So, if you outgrow your 100W (powering both banks), you could simply add another (1 per bank) or you could replace it. (The $$ are not that much different, it is the initial control circuits that cost the most, not the output )  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sctiger Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 So....please excuse me, I'm at work with too much time on my hands. I never really explored the 50w RGB flood option until now. So if I'm looking at this correctly, I could just buy a couple of the 50W RGB floods and bypass the potential aggravation my ignorance may cause trying to Connect the CMB24 to a power supply and mounting in an enclosure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted August 18, 2019 Share Posted August 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Sctiger said: So....please excuse me, I'm at work with too much time on my hands. I never really explored the 50w RGB flood option until now. So if I'm looking at this correctly, I could just buy a couple of the 50W RGB floods and bypass the potential aggravation my ignorance may cause trying to Connect the CMB24 to a power supply and mounting in an enclosure? 50W floods are SMART, 10W floods are DUMB. So yes, apply AC to the flood, connect the LOR (RS485) cables and they are ready for a show 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts