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CMB16D-QC and dumb LED strips


DrEslinger

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I am trying to set up dumb 16.4ft 12v SMD RGB 5050 IP65 Waterproof 300 LED strips on my CMB16D-QC. I have 2 power supplies with enough watts per side (two 12V/30A/360W). Testing the entire assembly using LOR Hardware utility 4.2.6 . The LED's are common hot with RGB grounds. I connected the positive lead to channels 1, 2 and 3. The ground leads are connected to negative 1, 2 and 3. When I first turn on the channels, I get red then green then blue. I then deselect the channels and tried one at a time and everything went crazy. Sometimes the red came on and sometimes it didn't. same thing happened with the other channels. Sometimes all 3 channels came on when only the blue was supposed to. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong and how to fix it? Thanks

I searched on dumb LEDs but can't find this. If this is already addressed, please point me to the post.

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Not sure from your post exactly how you have this all connected so let me go through it from scratch.

Connect the power supply to the main power terminals on the board, one will probably be enough but both sides need power. Use two if you like.

The strips are common Positive usually black so this goes to any one of the first 3 + terminals.

The individual Negative Red, Green and Blue leads go tho the Negative 1, 2 and 3 terminals respectively.

That's the first strip, repeat for the second strip using terminals 4, 5 and 6

Strip 1

Channel              Color

1+                        Black

1-                         Red

2+                        Not used                       

2-                         Green

3+                        Not Used

3-                         Blue

Strip 2

Channel              Color

4+                        Black

4-                         Red

5+                        Not used                       

5-                         Green

6+                        Not Used

6-                         Blue

 

And so on.

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Phil,

I have a PS for each side because of the watts drawn. Down the road I intend to have 4 strings per side drawing 288W / 24A each. I have daisy chained the Positive lead on each channel. I'll try removing it from the others tonight. I have noticed that the majority of people use the  CMB-24 controller. I was going to have other things on this but changed my mind after the purchase. I'll provide an update later tonight.

Thank you

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This is how I have my LED RGB Floods hooked up to my CMB-16D boards. I have a board for each color.

The the LED connections are all connected on -1, -2, -3 and so on like Phil mentioned. On one board I have all the Negative connections on the + channels.

Not sure this helps but worth posting just in case.

DSC05038_zps4e35f10d.jpg

Tom

Edited by Santas Helper
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Here is a pic of just one LED flood hooked up. The previous pic was with 15 floods.

In my situation, top left board is for red, the top right for green and the bottom board for blue and negative together.

DSC05036_zpsb8778441.jpg

Edited by Santas Helper
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24 minutes ago, DrEslinger said:

Phil,

I have a PS for each side because of the watts drawn. Down the road I intend to have 4 strings per side drawing 288W / 24A each. I have daisy chained the Positive lead on each channel. I'll try removing it from the others tonight. I have noticed that the majority of people use the  CMB-24 controller. I was going to have other things on this but changed my mind after the purchase. I'll provide an update later tonight.

Thank you

If you look at the PC Board, it is obvious that the + connections for each side of the board are common, so there is no need to connect the positive side of your strings to all three positions.  Doing so wont cause any problem however.  Based on what you are seeing, check very carefully in your wiring.  You should not be seeing the results that you are seeing.  I'm wondering if you have something wired wrong.  Note that the channels 1 - 8 bank starts counting at the connectors end of the board, and the channels 9 - 16 bank counts starting at the fuses end of the board, and that the plus and minus connectors is opposite for the two banks.

Also note, you said that you expect to have four strips on each side of the board.  Can I assume that you will be doubling these up - for example, string #1 using channels 1, 2, & 3, and string #2 also using channels 1, 2, & 3?   Assuming that is the case, with two 72 watt strings on a set of three channels, you are running right at the current limit for each channel on a CMB16D (unless you add heat sinks onto the MOSFETs). 

 

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So I think I found my problem. It is operator error. I can light all or some LED's when using the "Light Mode" buttons in the Hardware Utility. When I uncheck the channels while it is running (ON) that is when the strange things start happening. I think my test string proves this and now I am going to try it on the actual LED strings on the house with a short show. I attached my test set up pics. More to follow...  full.jpgcloser full.jpgScreen.jpg

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What exactly do you mean by strange thing is happen when you unchecked channels? I'm wondering if you have a misunderstanding about how it's supposed to work. When you select a check box or button in the light mode, that command affects the channels that are checked at the time the command is issued. Unchecking a channel does not affect that channel in any way. For example, if you select channels 1, 2, & 3, and the Steady check mark and On at 100%, channels 1-3 will come on at 100%. If you then unselect channel 2, and push the OFF button, then channels 1 & 3 will turn off, but channel 2 will not be affected and will remain on.

Make sense?

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk, so blame any typos or spelling errors on Android

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Try the pixel console, the console button at the bottom of the HU. Select the controller id and move the sliders to test the lights.

 

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