Is This available? Power Injection Tee?

[Sizzler]

I see things close, but not what I am looking for. Not sure if this is the right place or not, but here goes. What is most simplest way to inject power inline of pixel sets without cutting the Ray wu 3 pin end off? at first I was going to run maybe a 14-12awg sj type cord to end of lets say a 160 pixel string off the same power supply, but in some cases would be easier and more cost effective to add a separate power supply, so I was then going to just take some pig tales and make a kind of tee with dual wall heat shrink, and got to thinking why I don't see pre-made tee? Or am I just not looking in right places? I made a quick drawing (i am in no way a artist) that I was going to send to Ray Wu, and though i'd first get some opinions/better ideas/input? Thanks

[ebrown1972]

29 minutes ago, Sizzler said:

I see things close, but not what I am looking for. Not sure if this is the right place or not, but here goes. What is most simplest way to inject power inline of pixel sets without cutting the Ray wu 3 pin end off? at first I was going to run maybe a 14-12awg sj type cord to end of lets say a 160 pixel string off the same power supply, but in some cases would be easier and more cost effective to add a separate power supply, so I was then going to just take some pig tales and make a kind of tee with dual wall heat shrink, and got to thinking why I don't see pre-made tee? Or am I just not looking in right places? I made a quick drawing (i am in no way a artist) that I was going to send to Ray Wu, and though i'd first get some opinions/better ideas/input? Thanks

Is this what you are looking for http://www.holidaycoro.com/Four-Conductor-Tap-MFF-p/731.htm

[saxon]

53 minutes ago, Sizzler said:

I see things close, but not what I am looking for. Not sure if this is the right place or not, but here goes. What is most simplest way to inject power inline of pixel sets without cutting the Ray wu 3 pin end off? at first I was going to run maybe a 14-12awg sj type cord to end of lets say a 160 pixel string off the same power supply, but in some cases would be easier and more cost effective to add a separate power supply, so I was then going to just take some pig tales and make a kind of tee with dual wall heat shrink, and got to thinking why I don't see pre-made tee? Or am I just not looking in right places? I made a quick drawing (i am in no way a artist) that I was going to send to Ray Wu, and though i'd first get some opinions/better ideas/input? Thanks

Ray does sell your option #2.  I have a dozen of them and they are great for power injection. 

[Sizzler]

1 hour ago, ebrown1972 said:

Is this what you are looking for http://www.holidaycoro.com/Four-Conductor-Tap-MFF-p/731.htm

Ebrown. Perfect example. Close but according to description is for splitting data on 4 wire pixels. I should of stated that my pixels are 3wire ws2811's.

Edited May 1, 2016 by Sizzler
spell check error

[Sizzler]

1 hour ago, saxon said:

Ray does sell your option #2.  I have a dozen of them and they are great for power injection. 

Saxon,

   Thanks for the info. Problem with option 2 is that has to be same ps. Unless break/pull out positive pin. Which I was considering running long 12awg 2 conductor which I have tons of from stage audio setup with speakon plugs. I just though would be nice to have either option 1 ( manually twist what you need or option 4 which would cover a ton of options) or maybe even a straight through coupling that leaves out the positive, so can inject at far end using different P.S.? Do you have a link to the tee you say Ray has, or is it a special request item? Thanks

[saxon]

Sure. Give me few hours to get home and I will link it. 

They work great for my 2811 power injection and pass through points. 

[saxon]

5 hours ago, Sizzler said:

Saxon,

   Thanks for the info. Problem with option 2 is that has to be same ps. Unless break/pull out positive pin. Which I was considering running long 12awg 2 conductor which I have tons of from stage audio setup with speakon plugs. I just though would be nice to have either option 1 ( manually twist what you need or option 4 which would cover a ton of options) or maybe even a straight through coupling that leaves out the positive, so can inject at far end using different P.S.? Do you have a link to the tee you say Ray has, or is it a special request item? Thanks

HERE YA GO

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-2core-BLACK-color-the-male-connect-s/701799_1707253215.html

As mentioned, these worked VERY well for me between my 12 arches and in my globe. If you needed to use a 2nd PS you could pull pins, but I would think that simply not soldering the power leads to the lights would be easier. But I don't know what you have going on. Anyways, they are your option #2.

Hope this helped

[jerrymac]

BE careful.  There are a few DIFFERENT connectors out there and are not compatible with each other.Some have a different centering slot and some have a flat spot as a centering device as well as the size.  Look carefully at the ones you have and the T's you are going to buy.  Additionally use a multi meter (ohm meter) and check EVERY connection.  It is NOT uncommon for some of the wires to be cross connected on the ones direct from China.  

[Sizzler]

11 hours ago, saxon said:

HERE YA GO

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-2core-BLACK-color-the-male-connect-s/701799_1707253215.html

As mentioned, these worked VERY well for me between my 12 arches and in my globe. If you needed to use a 2nd PS you could pull pins, but I would think that simply not soldering the power leads to the lights would be easier. But I don't know what you have going on. Anyways, they are your option #2.

Hope this helped

Saxon.

 

Thanks for link. I'll pick some of them up. It would be nice if could pull the positive pin and reinsert later if needed lol. 

[Sizzler]

2 hours ago, jerrymac said:

BE careful.  There are a few DIFFERENT connectors out there and are not compatible with each other.Some have a different centering slot and some have a flat spot as a centering device as well as the size.  Look carefully at the ones you have and the T's you are going to buy.  Additionally use a multi meter (ohm meter) and check EVERY connection.  It is NOT uncommon for some of the wires to be cross connected on the ones direct from China.  

Jerry,

 

 I know what you mean. I always take a few minutes with a multi meter with a new order checking voltages or continuity as needed. I once got a PS that had 3 short outputs( from Ray Wu in like 06/07) two sets red was positive and black neg as should be and on 3rd set, black was positive and red was negitive. Caused me to burn out a controller. I try not to ever assume it's done correctly, but I sometimes do when in a rush knowing and thinking " I should probably test this first" and luck out when works. It's like throwing the dice sometimes with the China products. Mistakes do happen. 

[saxon]

yes good points. I checked all mine when I first got them, none were crossed. I also get all my connectors from Ray - all the same (13.5 mm). The good thing aboit the tees is that if you wanted too or had to, you could replace the ends with what works for you, except for the 2 core part, obviously. I have ordered several lots of connectors and had 2 that were bad, not crossed but open.

As far as pulling pins....the base of the tee is plenty big enough to write on with a paint pen. And since they are cheap enough, you could always just replace it when/if you change your mind.

Or reinsert the pin - let me know how that goes! 

[marsh28]

You could always go cheaper and just create your own power injection point by soldering a 2 wire connector directly to the 12v and Ground wires.  It works just as well.