Chinese Led with rusty trace :-(

[micheleboato]

I live in Italy and i can t find a vendor that have a outdoor light without transformer so i don t have dimmer effect. There are not led light without controller, full wave,220v anche with extension cord. From US the cost of shipments is expensive and also festive light is expensive

[EmmienLightFan]

I live in Italy and i can t find a vendor that have a outdoor light without transformer so i don t have dimmer effect. There are not led light without controller, full wave,220v anche with extension cord. From US the cost of shipments is expensive and also festive light is expensive

Buy normal lights, and remove the controllers and use a CMB16D from LOR. Doing it like this is cheaper and easy.

Also as it is around 30 volts, it is much safer.

 

 

I always considered the European electrical service better more efficient then ours. Now it's starting to sound like a big pain in the ass.

Drew

It is more efficient. We just have a different design of Xmas lights for safety reasons. 

The lights are good though. Most have a 8 effect chaser/flasher.

After converting so many lights and using RGB, I now appreciate the simplicity of a static display. I would quite like to do some on a group of houses. Someone nearby did a frozen one by putting a couple blue and some white strings up on some houses and buying an Olaf cut out. Together it must have cost $50 and taken an hour and a half. It got in national news.

[robongar]

Reply to Pikadoo:-

Yes, it is better and safer. I don't have to tell you, anything better and safer is genuinely a pain in they ar*s.

The yellow plug or socket he's asking is around 1.5" in dia X 4 " long, so the 2 joined to make a connection is around 7" long. Can you imagine 16 of those hanging from a controller? These are the standard for 110volt

Edited January 14, 2016 by robongar

[micheleboato]

Buy normal lights, and remove the controllers and use a CMB16D from LOR. Doing it like this is cheaper and easy.

Also as it is around 30 volts, it is much safer.

 

 

Hi, what do you mean about "normal lights" Do you have some link?

Hi, what do you mean about "normal lights" Do you have some link?

...and can i use CMB16 togheter with CTB16?

[robongar]

You mean this ugly bastard right?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-16AMP-Commando-Socket-Yellow/dp/B00TU2KS3I

Drew

This is more like it.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Yellow-Arctic-1-5mm-16amp/dp/B007206UT6

Yellow = 110volt, blue = 240volt

Edited January 14, 2016 by robongar

[EmmienLightFan]

Reply to Pikadoo:-

Yes, it is better and safer. I don't have to tell you, anything better and safer is genuinely a pain in they ar*s.

The yellow plug or socket he's asking is around 1.5" in dia X 4 " long, so the 2 joined to make a connection is around 7" long. Can you imagine 16 of those hanging from a controller? These are the standard for 110volt

I meant on the input to the controllers.

Tony Shepard's transformers have the yellow 16 amp connection on.

The transformers he uses are for building sites mainly.

 

It isn't actually 110v. It is 55-0-55. Half the time it is -55, half the time +55. It is for added safety in case the tools are dropped in water or malfunction.

LOR controllers and your lights operate fine on these transformers.

 

 

I use several 16amp 240v connections in my display. For tools I use working on the display, such as my work light and some extension cords, and for permanently powered devices like power supplies. Different plugs helps me see the difference between dimmed and switched connections and permanently powered ones.

This year I was pulling over 15 amps from a single UK 13 amp socket.

The socket is right next to the consumer unit and I could see it had a 30 amp fuse and thick wire. I had no problems apart from an RCD, which ironically had a short in it.

[EmmienLightFan]

Hi, what do you mean about "normal lights" Do you have some link?

...and can i use CMB16 togheter with CTB16?

 

I mean lights that have a transformer and have a multi-function controller. The ones that you are currently trying to avoid. I use them and they work great and although more expensive than US lights, the controllers for them cost twice as much.

 

The CMB16 can be connected together with a CTB16 with just a piece of cat5.

[Orville]

I replaced over 100 blue LED bulbs in my icicle lights this year (6 years old tho)...only the blue ones die..whats up with that??? 

Seems to me that the blue ones require the most voltage, even more than white.   And I'm not sure about this, just guessing that since they are a voltage hog, I wonder if it could possibly be excessive voltage that kills them off in a strand.   I just know out of every L.E.D. strand I have, the blue L.E.D.'s are *always* the first ones to go {burn out}, more than any other color in a strand of L.E.D. bulbs.   I probably replace anywhere from 5-10 blue L.E.D.'s per strand in a multi-color strand in a season than I do any other color.  I have purple L.E.D.'s I've been using for 10+ years, and I've only replaced a total of 4 bulbs in that amount of time in a total of 8 strands.     The Orange L.E.D. strands, same number of strands and same age as the purple, I've replaced a total of 2 orange L.E.D. bulbs in those strands.

 

But the blues, I've had to actually go out and by several packs of the micro-mini blue L.E.D.'s and remove and replace more of them than any other color in a multi-color strand.   They do appear to be the most prone to fail over any other color I've seen to date.   In an all blue strand, they seem to hold up better, but not so well when mixed in a multi-color environment.   Which is sort of weird and strange, but it is what it is, for whatever reason they die off the way they do.