Voltage

[Stringle]

Hi just order a system it say240v is there many used in the uk please do any body know !

[k6ccc]

There are a few Brits here on the forum.

[Stringle]

Thxs getting info ready for next years show

[robongar]

Where in the uk?

[Stringle]

Imm in Suffolk

I have and do a light display every year been doing them for some 30+ years but I like to try out the lor system next year

[EmmienLightFan]

Hi!!!!!!

 

I'm also in the UK in Essex.

 

 

I have a 240v LOR controller controlling my window lights. 

 

Yes, the controllers will work, however it is complicated. Tell me which lights you want to control and I can explain how.

[Stringle]

Imm not using the control this year so may give you a shout next year if that on with you ? !!

[EmmienLightFan]

Imm not using the control this year so may give you a shout next year if that on with you ? !!

 

This is a year long project. The sooner you start the better. 

[robongar]

Imm in Suffolk I have and do a light display every year been doing them for some 30+ years but I like to try out the lor system next year

I've private messaged you

[Stringle]

Can't reply to the message sorry but I have used the 240to 110 v dropper in the past but found it very hard to import the light we liked ,

But we can get 240v LEDs now in the uk so was hoping I could use them.

[EmmienLightFan]

I will try to explain it here.


Lights purchased here are different to the ones in the US. Now, the majority of string lights from shops here use 24 volts AC. Then, inside a multi function controller, or small plastic box, there is a bridge rectifier that converts the 24 volts AC to around 28 to 30 volts DC.

You cannot connect the 24vac transformer to an LOR CTB16PC.

Controlling lights like this is actually still quite easy. You will need a 30 volt power supply which is easy to get from Ali Express. You will also need a controller that can dim 30volts. Light-O-Rama's CMB-16D-QC can do this, and it is much cheaper than the normal 240 volt controllers.

What you do is cut off the multifunction controller and work out which wires are the two negatives (Used for the two "series" of lights) and which is the common positive. To do this twist two wires together and touch them and the extra one on the power supply. Keep swapping until you find the combination of wires where every LED in the light set lights up. Some controllers have the - wires coming out on the outside and the + in the middle, and some have the left wire as the + and the other two the -s. I have a diagram that I can post if you want.

 

I don't use LOR's CMB-16D-QC, I use a controller that cost just £30, however this one is connected to the computer using a different method and it is much more complicated. If you are very computer savvy I can explain it. It used a Raspberry Pi and ethernet. However the LOR controller can have a larger load so more lights can be connected to each output, not that you will find a 30v power supply that will allow you to max the board out for under £100.

 

You may have string lights that don't have a transformer and run on 240vac (Often the more expensive ones). To use these you will need a 240vac controller. There is a webpage explaining how to bypass or remove the multi-function controllers from these on Big Clive's Website

 

Rope lights without a multi-function controller can be connected to a 240vac controller with no modification. For rope light with a multi-function controller (Or that have any flashing), use the instructions in the link above to disable the controller. 

 

Motifs and rope light wireframes are the same as rope lights, bypass anything that makes them flash and if they don't flash they can connect directly to the controller, however they don't look very good at all when controlled.

Edited December 13, 2015 by EmmienLightFan

[Stringle]

Ok I see how many lights are you running in the uk this year and did you find them here easy !

[EmmienLightFan]

My display is mainly pixels, however I have three sets of lights from the UK in my display. Here is a video:

 

 

The snowflakes are from Festive Lights. It is good to buy from their connectable range as you are not paying for another multi-function controller and transformer that you will not use every time you buy a string of lights. I also know how festive light's lights are wired and you don't need to cut the actual string of lights to connect them. You can buy an extension cable and cut the male end off that.

 

The lights on the left fence came from Sainsburys.

 

What I would do if you were buying lots of lights is buy a few sets, test them and see if they work with the controller, pick your favourite supplier and keep using them.

[Stringle]

Looking great do you transmit the music on fm too ?

Pixels lights ? And you have three sets per display to change colour ? !!!

I now get most of my lights from festive lights & Christmas r us

Edited December 13, 2015 by Stringle

[EmmienLightFan]

Looking great do you transmit the music on fm too ?

Pixels lights ? And you have three sets per display to change colour ? !!!

I now get most of my lights from festive lights & Christmas r us

 

I don't transmit on FM. The rules are stricter over here. It would be a pirate radio station. I started a thread on the Blue Rooms, a UK AV forums, and it didn't go down well.

 

Pixels are LED lights which are individually controllable. Each light has three channels. Pixels are RGB, red, green and blue, meaning they have red, green and blue LED's. I have a lot of RGB stuff in my display and will probably be going 100% RGB next year. 

 

RGB on 220v is just the same as RGB on 110v. Most power supplies have a little switch that switches between 110v input and 220v input or sometimes they automatically switch. And RGB is normally all low voltage, often 5 volts or 12 volts.

 

There is dumb and smart RGB. With dumb RGB, all the LEDs on a strip or string are the same colour. Pixels are smart RGB.

 

 

I have never heard of Christmas R Us and can't find a website. Do you have a link?