Ron Boyd Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I have had a couple of inquiries on how I did my pixel circles. It's a pretty simple project. once you have the materials, should take a couple of hours to complete. I used Coloplast for the actual circle. The circle is about 16 inches in diameter and the pixels are about 1.5 to 2" spacing. Even though there are only 32 pixels in 2 of them, I had to power inject after 2 circles. the pixels I used are WS2811, starting at the bottom and working clockwise. here are a few pics to show the front, back and the rigid circle I used to mount them. The rigid circle is just a small cut out from a piece of Plastic pipe scrap that a friend had. If memory serves, it's 10" in diameter. iI just mounted the gray piece to a section of 1/2" EMT. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pbwrhiwzjjh7mz4/AACl-kSet3P2c1vEVeCYY_9_a?dl=0 Edited October 26, 2015 by Ron Boyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks Ron! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Ron, I am planning to add (8) "Boyd Circles" to my display this year. Any chance you could send me a LOR SE file depicting programming of these circles? I specifically like the "jelly bean" effect (2-3 light groups - rotating). Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmienLightFan Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I'm going to make two of these and put a single colour snowflake in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpageler Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 What a ma-roon, didn't realize the yellow (maybe it's light green, I'm visually impaired) light should flicker during a test partern. Never looked at boards if pixels were working, only when outlet 1 wasn't working. The yellow led does stay on if the test parttern is solid r, g or b, otherwise it doesn flicker. Did re-confirm that I had the correct parameters set with correct light types and the start/end channels for all 4 outlets were number correctly. Outlet 1 still doesn't work. Seems like board gets stuck in test mode with pixels plugged into outlet 1, or looses link to webpage. I have a hell of a time getting it out of it. When pressing the "restart controller" button, I get "page not available offline". Just spent another hour like I did the other day, in re-bootng computer, restarting webpage, unplugs cat5/power cord, hitting various button on webpage. Finally got the "restart controller" button to actually re-start controller. At that point, seems to dis-engage from the stuck test mode. The computer is my show pc and is not wifi or hardwired to internet, thus the working offline webpage mood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 On 3/1/2016 at 8:13 AM, Vince4xmas said: Ron, I am planning to add (8) "Boyd Circles" to my display this year. Any chance you could send me a LOR SE file depicting programming of these circles? I specifically like the "jelly bean" effect (2-3 light groups - rotating). Thanks Ron https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gr8dpung32fpj21/AADyDvYc-Msv2-15RljOsmA-a?dl=0 Included in this folder is, Visualizer files, Visualizer Props, Superstar file depicting 3 different ways I do the effects you are trying to accomplish. Also included is the las file of these same effects exported from Superstar. I threw in the SS file for anyone who would like to see how they are built. The first effect is done using morphs. This is the least labor intensive of the 3, but you have to work a bit with the timing to get the desired effect. The second is just a series of scenes. takes a bit longer to create, but the effect can be made as fast or slow as you want. Also, If I want to avoid Channel Collision and change from, say, red to green, (similar to a fill), I use this one. If you take a look at the Frosty video on the website, at 1:23, where it changes from Green to Red to Blue to Green to Red, this is an example of this effect. The third is a series of images. this one is the most time consuming to create because of having to select a single block. you can click, hold and drag, but it's still time consuming. If using a single color, I like this tool best. See if this helps and if you need more, I'll get you a few sequences loaded up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks much Ron! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Ron, hate is ask, but could I also get the SE file? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 The SE file is the "sup.las". There's not any music, just a few effects. When I get home today, if you like, I'll set up a sequence with music with just the circles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Oops. I saw the file type as AutoCAD Layer State on my system and did not realize it was the SE file. This should work for me just fine, but if you can send more.........more is always better! Thanks again for assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gr8dpung32fpj21/AADyDvYc-Msv2-15RljOsmA-a?dl=0 Try this. I put the original files in folders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Checked it all out after work today and very helpful......thanks Ron! Much appreciated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 You're quite welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightzilla Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Ron, How did you cut the holes in the coro for the pixels? A punch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Drill Press, 1/2" spade bit, or 12mm if you can find one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Stacked up and alligned (8) coro sheets trimmed in circles and plunged with a 1/2" wood spade bit for 16 perfected spaced holes for bullet pixels. Just needed to trim the coro a bit in on some of the cut holes. I was concerned a drill bit would tear up the coro and needed to use a hole punch. Thanks for the easy solution Ron! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 Exactly how I did it. You're most welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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