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Current vs. wire gage


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For those wondering what wire gage to use for each channel of your display and to supply power to your controller, I offer the following charts. I suspect it will answer guestions for some, generate questions for others and some may say (I haven't burned my house down yet, so why bother:waycool:).

I scanned these from my Aircraft Mechanics Handbook, the way I see it, if it is good enough for an airplane (with F.A.A. blessing), it should work for my Christmas display.

Also if you are serious about doing this, I also recommend purchasing a clamp-on AC current meter, it's a cheap investment vs. living in a hotel for a couple month's and paying the deductable on a insurance claim.

I have 3 charts to post so please do not respond until I have posted all 3.


Attached files 26961=1530-continuious 3.jpg

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Thanks for those charts -- believe it or not I was setting out to look for that tonight for an un-Christmassy project: I'd like to rewire our hot tub to work on 240V instead of 120V which the previous owner had it wired as (it's works either way, but works much better with 240).

-Tim

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gremler wrote:

I don't know why some of the pictures showed up as an attachment and others are viewable, I did the same post for each.:?

Depends on the size of the pic -- if it's small enough (not sure what that means, specifically) the forum software shows it, otherwise it attaches it.

-Tim
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Thanks for the info. I am sure it is something that most need to know about.

I was looking for the Popcorn emoticon and couldn't find it as the last time I saw "Free Air" discussed it turned into a 6 page debate between electrical engineers and those who defined the code.

Found it Popcorn%20Emoticon%2Egif

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