In Line Fuse question

[ezimnow]

What in line fuse is everyone using and where  are you getting them?...I want to go with an inline fuse between the PS and the controller and on any wires that I may do PI...

I’m going to be using 18/3 RGB Flat cable and 18 awg WS2811 12V pixels (50 per string).I'll be using a second PS as my source for PI.  My longest run will be about 47ft and I'll be placing the second PS close to that run and using a Null pixel on that as well.   Any other runs over 15' I'll run a Null and inject power if needed after I run some tests in the garage . Biggest thing now is I think for safety reasons I want to be sure I everything fused..One other question,  what size amp fuse do I want based on what I am running here?

Thanks in Advance as always...

Eddie Z

[Ron Boyd]

 

Here's how I'm doing mine. My fuses are right after the PS out. 2 Power supplies in another box, (attached to the back). I can inject power to 35 points with this box. Otherwise, just an automotive, in-line fuse holder from Wal-mart will do.

 

http://dinrailterminalblocks.com/fuse-blocks

http://dinrailterminalblocks.com/single-level-terminal-blocks

 

The din rails came from ebay

Edited July 8, 2015 by Ron Boyd

[pyrotech]

What are the inline fuses for?   

 

I am new this year to pixels.  I was planning to go directly from my power supply to the pixels.   Am I missing a step?

 

Thanks,

Tim

[ezimnow]

The fuse is a safety factor to prevent the full power from the power supply from discharging thru a short circuit and potentially causing a fire..

 

i am using this link to pull my information ....http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Power_Injection

Ron thanks for that info...I may have to send you a PM for more info ...

Edited July 8, 2015 by ezimnow

[k6ccc]

I am using a couple different fuse arrangements depending on what was handy that particular day.  If you look at the photos of my year round landscape lighting at:

http://newburghlights.org/Landscaping.html

About halfway down the page are two photos of the inside of one of my brick columns, in the right side photo you can see a 12 position fuse strip that uses the 1/4 inch by 1 1/4 inch glass fuses.  I used that because that was what the local electronics store had in stock that day.  For most stuff I am using fuse blocks that use the automotive ATC type fuses.  The ones I'm using are similar to this one:

http://www.powerwerx.com/fuses-circuit-protection/10-circuit-blade-fuse-block-cover.html

I'm aiming to standardize on the ATC type fuses so I only have to stock one type of fuse (and they are available EVERYWHERE)

[LOR Staff]

Fuses = always a good thing

 

You can burn down your house just as easily with 5V/12V as you can with 110V.

 

People see low voltage and immediately think it is safe all around.  Well....  Not really.  You probably aren't going to electrocute yourself on 5/12 (notice I said PROBABLY.  You can), but you sure as heck can start a fire.

[LOR Staff]

Here is what happens when you short a small 9V battery with steel wool (a 'too small' conductor)

https://youtu.be/7eT-buIKUpY

[sticks4legs]

I've soldered simple automotive fuses in line. Easy and quick, just confirm your amperage. They also make it easy to power down the unit when needed in a pinch, just pull the fuse.