DMX Matrix Questions

[Little_b]

Forgive me up front as I am still struggling trying to wrap my head around DMX. I think I've read and watched more tutorials these past couple of weeks than I ever did in school.  I am looking to build 1 of 2 things for this year.  Either a (12v WS2811) 20 x 50 12mm Pixel Node Matrix or a Pixel Node Tree with the same items.  Questions:

 

1- What is the preferred spacing between nodes?  View is about 30-100 ft

 

2- I see most everyone has been using the Sandevice E682 controller, but what are your thoughts on Holiday Coro's AlphaPix16?  I would think if I use the E682 for this I would be maxed out, but with the Alphapix16 I'd have room for expansion, assuming I'm reading the specs correctly. 

 

3- Both these controllers have 16 outputs and I have 20 strands, does this mean I need to piece some strands together as long as I don't exceed the total # of pixels for each universe (and calculated power and amps)?  (Soldering is not an issue) Does each output do more than 1 Universe?

 

4- What is the easiest (I know relative) Software to program sequences with?  I've been playing with Super Star and think I get the hang of it, but I'm seeing videos of peoples displays where they have spiral tree effects and other exploding effects I haven't seen in Super Star.  I just downloaded xLights/Nutcracker to try out and I see a little of these. Can I splice the sequences from both programs into 1 in Sequence Editor to get the best of both worlds?

 

I am more of a "Hands on" approach person to more easily understand what is going on, but before I spend big $$$ on a controller I want to make sure I get the right one, and the best bang for my buck.

 

 

[EmmienLightFan]

2. The AlphaPix only came out on HolidayCoro about four weeks ago, and SanDevices was one of the first E1.31 controllers, so that is why you will see it a lot more. Also, SanDevices have lots of different sized controllers.

The AlphaPix16 looks really good. I am getting an AlphaPix4 soon.

 

3. Yes, if you didn't use multiple strands on one output you would be wasting the capabilities of the controller. You will have 1000 pixels, so you should put 340 pixels on the first, 340 on the second, and 320 on the third, and you can use all the rest of the outputs + 20.

 

4. Light-O-Rama S4 will be out soon, and this includes the Pixel Editor, a version of the sequence editor especially for pixels, so I would wait for that.

[Darryl Lambert]

1. There is no correct answer to this. There are many factors to which each person has to weigh, Pixel density, channel count, # of controllers & amount of money your willing to spend are just a few. Usually the closer the viewer, the closer you'll want your pixels. I'm planning on 1" spacing for a matrix, Matt Johnson used 2" & it looks great.

 

2. As ELF said sandevice was one of the first thats why you usually see them referenced. Here is a good comparision chart of some of the others.

 

3. Most controllers will do more than 1 universe per output so with 20 strands & 16 outputs you'll need to do a little splicing/soldering, unless you go with the falcon16-v2 which can have 32 outputs ( when used with an expansion board ). You'll have to watch your set-up though if your going to splice strings. With 20x50 thats 1000 pixels divided by 16 outputs doesn't give you an even number so 1 or more of the strings will have a different number of pixels. As well depending on the pixel, power injection may be reqired if you have too many pixels on 1 string.   

 

4. The pixel editor in LOR S4 seems like it will have the same type effects as XL/NC. One of the developers XL/NC works with LOR now. I haven't had a chance to play with it yet but thats a different story. 

You can create spiral effects in superstar. I'm not that familar with it but I've seen it done.

You can take effects generated in XL/NC & import them into LOR through various methods. ie creating a clipboard file

Edited April 11, 2015 by Darryl Lambert

[Little_b]

Thanks for the responses I really appreciate it. 

 

3- So if I'm understanding it right, for my 1000 pixel matrix the E682 or AlphaPix16 are way too big for what I really need them to do.  Can I get away with using the E6804 or the AlphaPix 4 instead?

[Ron Boyd]

E682, E6804 and P12S from J1Sys will do 2040 pixels. The P12 will do 1 Universe per output, I think, (I'm new to the J1Sys stuff). Jim from Sandevices says the 6804 will do all 2040 pixels from 1 output if needed, with proper power injection. The refresh rate would be way low though.

 

The AlphaPix 16 from Holidaycoro wil do 32 Universes and the AlphaPix 4 will do 16.

Pixlite 16 from Advatek will cover 32 universes also and the Pixlite 4 will do 16 Universes.

 

The Alphapix, Pixlite and P12S all have additional DMX outputs for anywhere from 1 to 4 more universes of dumb nodes.

 

LOR has an E1.31 board coming called the Pixcon. Haven't seen much on that yet, but I assume will run with the others.

 

Now, another option is to use the diyledexpress.com, E1.31 to DMX bridge and either the WS2811 pixel extenders, or  a few of the Holidaycoro TinyPix or EasyPix controllers. The pixel extenders have been tested to about 800 pixels from a board smaller than a credit card.

 

Personally, I would use a Sandevices E6804 and create 4 strings of 250 pixels and run 1 string from each output. But that's just what I would do. The most I've ran from one output on this board is 125 pixels and had zero problems. I also ran 136 pixels from one of the Pixel extenders with zero problems.

 

As you can see, there are a bunch of options. It all depends on how much work you want to put into it. However, whatever you decide, you'll need to learn power injection. On this page:

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Power_Injection

you can learn about all you need to know about injection.

 

One other thing, if soldering is not an issue, the Sandevices boards, come in a completed board or a kit. The kit will save you some $$$. They're not hard to solder together. 

 

As far as software is concerned, my pick is Superstar. The new Pixel Editor, in Beta now, will probably do what you need also. I can't speak much on it since I haven't figured it out yet, but I assume it will be something special, once it goes to production, after the beta period.

 

I hope this helps, probably as clear as mud. 

Edited April 11, 2015 by Ron Boyd

[EmmienLightFan]

Yes, you can easily fit the pixels on the AlphaPix4. That would save money.

 

Everybody saying to go with SanDevices stuff, what makes you use it over the Advatek slash AlphaPix controllers? I am getting lots of controllers so just want to know.

[Ron Boyd]

It's just what I use and it's a rock solid performer. It's a personal thing, and, it works, every, single, time

[godman]

I have all 3 controllers and the Advatek PixLite 16 is my favorite, It is by far the easiest to use (for me) and set up. It has 16 outputs and 32 universes which means for ease of use you can run 16 stings , 1 on each output. I prefer this as it is easier for me to set up in the SE

[Little_b]

Ok so now a new question, when connecting the light strings to the connector.  Lets say I have the 4 output controller and I want to put 250 nodes to one output for balance,  that would require 2 universes, so do I make 1 string that is 250 nodes long, or can I hook 2 strings of 125 nodes to the same output?  (I understand the power injection requirements and needs.  I've been using RGB Dumb strips and LOR's 16 and 24 channel DC boards for the last couple of years, which from what I understand isn't too far off from smart, power wise). 

 

I think I understand most of it, but just need to order a controller and start playing with it.  Things click better for me that way.  I think I will go with the Sandevice E6804 for this project.  If I understand it correctly I can just use a Cat5e cable from the computer to the controller on a new network, correct?  I don't need an adapter like the LOR controllers do?

 

So Godman you bring up another point, is it easier to set up in SE with the bigger controllers to spread out the strands, or is it all the same as long as you configure the channels correctly?

[Darryl Lambert]

Ok so now a new question, when connecting the light strings to the connector.  Lets say I have the 4 output controller and I want to put 250 nodes to one output for balance,  that would require 2 universes, so do I make 1 string that is 250 nodes long, or can I hook 2 strings of 125 nodes to the same output?  (I understand the power injection requirements and needs.  I've been using RGB Dumb strips and LOR's 16 and 24 channel DC boards for the last couple of years, which from what I understand isn't too far off from smart, power wise). 

 

I think I understand most of it, but just need to order a controller and start playing with it.  Things click better for me that way.  I think I will go with the Sandevice E6804 for this project.  If I understand it correctly I can just use a Cat5e cable from the computer to the controller on a new network, correct?  I don't need an adapter like the LOR controllers do?

 

So Godman you bring up another point, is it easier to set up in SE with the bigger controllers to spread out the strands, or is it all the same as long as you configure the channels correctly?

 

Your 250 pixels has to be in one continuous string ( power injection will be required ) The data gets sent to the first pixel which takes the required information then passes the data down the string to the next pixel & so on & so on.

 

You don't need any adapter/dongle for E1.31 type controllers. Just connect to your computer via it's LAN. If your using multiple controllers then you will need a network switch or bridge to connect them. 

 

If your setting up a matrix in SE I would recomend using Vegomatic. It's a great utility that creates a LOR config file for props with multiple RGB items.

[EmmienLightFan]

My config is all such a huge mess. I have about 1000 channels called New Channel, which I have not set up yet, and everything is in the wrong order. I tried Vegomatic, and it worked, really well, but since, I have played with channel settings so much it has got into a mess.