Muskrat42 Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 Total newbie here and I have some pretty basic questions. I am not even sure of the terminology, which makes it tough to search for answers on here. Please bear with me. I have ordered the Showtime Central Starter PackageShowTime Central with miniDirector and FM TransmitterS3 Basic Plus Suite LicenseUSB Adapter and USB filtered cable30 Amp ReadyToGo 16 channel light controller50' Cat5 cable to connect Director and light controller with 2 additional 16 channel controllers (for a total of 48 channels) and the Plug n Show SD card. 1. What is a "director"? 2. With the LOR Basic Suite software, I can edit the arrangement (sequences?) on my computer, then just plug the card back into the 1st controller when I have finished editing? 3. Using 3 controllers daisy chained together, does only the first one need an SD card? Are there any other accessories I need for the additional controllers? Do the additional controllers from LOR come with CAT5 cables? 4. I have the option of locating all of the controllers together under a patio roof to keep them out of the weather - or - Installing them spread out across my display so they are closer to the light strands each controls. (Reducing the lengths of the extension cords and minimizing cords running over walkways and the driveway) Which option is recommended? 5. What is it called when the lights on a strand come on individually to give the illusion of flow? 6. Can I download the editing software to multiple computers or is it a one time download license? Thanks in advance for any assistance or advice you can give! I am excited to get started, but as you can tell, I'm clueless. Michael
Don Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 Total newbie here and I have some pretty basic questions. I am not even sure of the terminology, which makes it tough to search for answers on here. Please bear with me. I have ordered the Showtime Central Starter PackageShowTime Central with miniDirector and FM TransmitterS3 Basic Plus Suite LicenseUSB Adapter and USB filtered cable30 Amp ReadyToGo 16 channel light controller50' Cat5 cable to connect Director and light controller with 2 additional 16 channel controllers (for a total of 48 channels) and the Plug n Show SD card. 1. What is a "director"? 2. With the LOR Basic Suite software, I can edit the arrangement (sequences?) on my computer, then just plug the card back into the 1st controller when I have finished editing? 3. Using 3 controllers daisy chained together, does only the first one need an SD card? Are there any other accessories I need for the additional controllers? Do the additional controllers from LOR come with CAT5 cables? 4. I have the option of locating all of the controllers together under a patio roof to keep them out of the weather - or - Installing them spread out across my display so they are closer to the light strands each controls. (Reducing the lengths of the extension cords and minimizing cords running over walkways and the driveway) Which option is recommended? 5. What is it called when the lights on a strand come on individually to give the illusion of flow? 6. Can I download the editing software to multiple computers or is it a one time download license? Thanks in advance for any assistance or advice you can give! I am excited to get started, but as you can tell, I'm clueless. Michael 1) A 'Director' is a device that can control the controllers without the use of a computer. The Directors have the ability to allow you to run musical sequences without a computer. 2) Yes/No. Depends on how the sequences from the Showtime Central are delivered. If they are actual sequences, then yes, you can open them in the Sequence Editor, and modify the sequences. If they are pre-programmed sequences already loaded on the SD Card, then you would not be able to. Once you are done editing sequences you have to use the Simple Show Builder or Hardware Utility (MP3 Tab) to create the shows for use on the directors. 3) One director can control any number of controllers. Haven't looked at LOR's store in a while. Last I checked you had to order them separate. 4) Which ever option works for you. 5) With the controllers you purchased you do not have the ability to control individual lights on a string. You can control everything plugged into a channel at once, just as if you were plug/unpluging it from a regular wall outlet. You would need the smart RGB devices (Cosmic Color Ribbons/Bulbs/Pixels) to control individual bulbs/pixels on a string. 6) The license is a 5 seat license. You can activate it on up to 5 different computers.
Muskrat42 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Posted November 5, 2014 Don, thank you! You have helped immensely.
sticks4legs Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 Take some time and go through the video tutorials. It would save you and a lot of others some confusion and the initial oh F--- shock
George Simmons Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 And make sure you have a SOLID plan B in place in the event the Whole Room transmitter's signal doesn't quite reach the street.
Steven Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 4. I have the option of locating all of the controllers together under a patio roof to keep them out of the weather - or - Installing them spread out across my display so they are closer to the light strands each controls. (Reducing the lengths of the extension cords and minimizing cords running over walkways and the driveway) Which option is recommended?It is strongly recommended (at least by me and many others) to install the controllers right next to the light strands. The controllers are in weatherproof boxes that are grey, so they tend to blend in. 5. What is it called when the lights on a strand come on individually to give the illusion of flow? It's called "chasing". I spent a bunch of time my first year modifying candlestick strings by cutting and splicing them such that each of 4 plugs is connected to every 4th candlestick. It was a bunch of work, but I've used this fixture for 8 years.
m1ke05 Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) Don't make the mistake I made before getting into LOR. I went out and bought a bunch of extension cords. Not only expensive, but they are darned heavy to pack away. Look into buying a spool of SPT-1 or SPT-2 wire and vampire plugs. It's way cheaper lighter and fully customizable. Edit; I should also add, that spt wire is only for hooking up your lights, not to be used for powering your controllers, that would be bad. Edited November 7, 2014 by m1ke05
George Simmons Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Edit; I should also add, that spt wire is only for hooking up your lights, not to be used for powering your controllers, that would be bad. Sorry - I must disagree. I've personally got a couple dozen controllers (Not including the various CCDs I have) with spt 1 power cords. You've got to know your load, but then that's true of every configuration. With LEDs, spt 1 is plenty.
m1ke05 Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) You're powering your controllers with SPT wire? There's no ground wire in SPT. Edited November 7, 2014 by m1ke05
zeighty Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 You're powering your controllers with SPT wire? There's no ground wire in SPT.m1ke05, I agree - I am shocked too. No pun intended. George - I have read so many of your posts giving such good advice. Please tell us that you have a ground in your setup.
George Simmons Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 In a yard full of fused controllers and plugs which are all connected through GFCI receptacles I'm not sure how much safer I'd be with a ground wire connected to a plastic box, but I'll give it some consideration some day when I have the time. But ... horror of horrors - and close your eyes now if you're sensitive - the overwhelming majority of my controller dongles are also spt 1.
Steven Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Have you seen where the ground wire goes in the PC controllers? It only goes to a connection point and to the pigtails. If you aren't connecting anything with 3 pins, then the ground adds nothing. A ground wire is useful only if the equipment has a metal case. Look at your coffee maker. Does it have a ground wire? SPT1 typically has a limit of 7 amps. (It can probably carry more in cold weather, but I wouldn't push it.) If you use it to supply power to your controllers, then you really need a 7-amp fuse in series. Otherwise, you may forget and keep adding strings until you get close to the 15-amp limit, and then the insulation will melt.
m1ke05 Posted November 8, 2014 Posted November 8, 2014 Well, that is a fair point, gfi and fused controllers and even fused led or Incan lights. Maybe it isn't really any safer, I was just a bit shocked is all.
scubado Posted November 8, 2014 Posted November 8, 2014 Consider yourself enlightened! Pun intended 1
Steven Posted November 10, 2014 Posted November 10, 2014 Remember this: The job of a fuse (or circuit breaker) is to protect wire. The job of a GFCI is to protect humans (from electrocution). A ground wire (and metal case) will also protect humans, by blowing the fuse if a hot wire touches the case. Those tiny fuses in the plugs of light strings protect the wire from melting when there is too much load on it. They will not protect humans, because it doesn't take very much current to electrocute you. That's why you need a GFCI.
Max-Paul Posted November 12, 2014 Posted November 12, 2014 OMG a group of newbies got a lesson in electricity today. I agree with George and the rest that are trying to open your eyes about ground wires. Do you realize why drills had ground wires added? Most of them at one time have or had metal bodies. The ground wire is attached to the metal body. Now if the hot wire would happen to short to the metal body in times prior to grounds. The body of the drill would become hot and shock you. But the ground wire would cause the breaker or fuse to blow. BTW my show is 98% LED. And the power to each of my controllers are daisy chained. Over the years I have split it up to 3 daisy chains. But all of the wiring is SPT 16 or 18 gauge. A Kill-A-Watt is a must have.
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