Klayfish Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) OK, I know it seems like a really dumb question, but I've never done it before. I bought an assembled E682 board and a CableGuard CG1500 mounting box. I just got the box and realized I have no clue how to mount it. Let me edit this a little. I see all the mounting holes on the bottom of the box and realize the E682 mounts to them. What's the proper mounting location, so I can mount it and the power supply? My power supply is a 5V S-300-5. A few follow up questions on this too... 1. How do I mount the power supply in the box? I don't see any mounting points on it. 2. In reading the E682 manual, I'm at the point where it's telling me to connect a power supply, but I don't know how. Can someone show me how to wire the power supply to the E682? My oh my, what a difference a year makes. Last year I was spending this weekend outside starting to set up some of my display...I had a physically huge layout as I had 3.5 acres of land. This year I'm in a rental house with a very small yard and haven't even thought about going out to set the display up. I'm using the same features as last year so it won't take me more than a weekend to lay it out on this small yard, the only thing new is this RGB. Edited October 19, 2014 by Klayfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Have no idea what this power supply looks like. But if it has no flange with mounting holes. Then usually you will find a few holes that have pressed in nuts. You are going to need to get some either flat hardware or angle hardware. Drill holes that match the pressed in nuts and more holes over the bosses (nipples in bottom of CG1500 box). I have also seen people mount the power supply in the front cover of the CG1500. As for the board (E682) see how its holes align with the bosses. Also how do you plan to mount the box? Might want to keep clear of the bosses that you use to mount the box to what ever. I suppose I am saying use your noodle to figure out what will work best for you. Or what you need to do to make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Klayfish look on Holiday coro website the sell mounting kits for the CG 1500 boxes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b595/boydchristmaslights/Pixburst%20Photos/DSCN0566_zpscaa2ba71.jpg Here's a good picture of how to mount them both. HolidayCoro and have mounting boards for this very purpose. I went to Home Depot and picked up a piece of Plexi-Glass, I think it was 1/4", and cut it with a scroll saw to fit the box. I used the holes on the side of the PS with some hex head bolts (7mm if I remember correctly. I just took the PS to HD with me and made sure of the thread pattern and size) and corner brackets to mount mine. To mount the E682, I used computer standoffs (brass) and small screws. Steve, Shoot me an email and remind me and I'll get some close-up pictures of how I did mine. I'll take some of the Plexi and the Mounting board from DIYLEDExpress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 When I ordered the box from HolidayCoro I also ordered a strain relief kit. I'm at work at the moment, so I don't have my order sheet with me, but maybe I had ordered the mounting kit too? Inside the box was a black board, about 1/3" thick which was about the same dimensions as the inside of the box. It has small holes in it that line up with the raised holes in the bottom of the box and has patterns leafed on top, but I couldn't make the patterns match the equipment I have. Max-Paul, I have the same power supply unit as what Ron's photo is. Once I have it mounted, I need to figure out the wiring to connect the power supply to the E682? Ron, I'll shoot you an e-mail later tonight. Based on your photo, I'm still missing stuff. What are those thicker white cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sax Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I guess this is a case of one task several ways to do it.I like the ideas of diyledexpress and holiday coro. These kits really simplify things. So that is one way to go.Ron's using plexi is another way to do it.Mine is cheaper and easier. I purchase 5/16 plywood (I use cabinet side plywood thick enough to handle 1/2" screws), cut it to size, then mount the sans to that board using #6 1/2" screws. I make holes or cut outs around the external mounting holes to allow me to mount the box. Since wood does not conduct I don't use standoffs. But I do not over tighten the screws as this will snap the sans board.For the p/s, I use L brackets and mount the supply from the side screw ports with machine screws cut to size. I don't know the size off the top if my head. The p/s floats above the board to allow extra cooling on the backside.I use this method for the sans, the LOR DC card, the 27 channel dmx DC cards and a smaller version of this for the CCR controllers.For the sans I mount the items side by side p/s on the left. For the LOR DC and 27 channel the p/s is on top and board on the bottom. For the CCR I use Velcro which I screw into the wood then use that to hold the controller and ps. 2 strips of Velcro per item.IMHO, if you want plug and play with no thinking, get the kits from holiday coro. They ship with templates on the plexi and include all the hardware. Want to go DIY and cheap, get some wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 When I ordered the box from HolidayCoro I also ordered a strain relief kit. I'm at work at the moment, so I don't have my order sheet with me, but maybe I had ordered the mounting kit too? Inside the box was a black board, about 1/3" thick which was about the same dimensions as the inside of the box. It has small holes in it that line up with the raised holes in the bottom of the box and has patterns leafed on top, but I couldn't make the patterns match the equipment I have. Max-Paul, I have the same power supply unit as what Ron's photo is. Once I have it mounted, I need to figure out the wiring to connect the power supply to the E682? Ron, I'll shoot you an e-mail later tonight. Based on your photo, I'm still missing stuff. What are those thicker white cables? Those are the pigtails. I have went away from those and just soldered the RGB 18 gauge wire to the pixels and then running that wire straight to the controller. Here's an illustration on how to get power to the 682:http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b595/boydchristmaslights/PSandE682_zps5ae596e4.jpg If you're using 3 wire pixels, which I think that's what you told me, The 5v+ (or 12v+) goes to the right-most slot on the Euro connectors. Data is just to the left of that in slot # 2. Skip the Clock (CLK) slot, unless you're using 4 wire pixels, and then put the ground in the left-most slot. This is also printed on the board. Make sure all four males, insert into all 4 females. I saw earlier this year where someone inadvertently had 3 males and skipped one. He found it this year after giving up during showtime last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) 2. In reading the E682 manual, I'm at the point where it's telling me to connect a power supply, but I don't know how. Can someone show me how to wire the power supply to the E682? Run two wires from two of the + outputs of the power supply to the two + inputs on the E682,Run two wires from two of the - outputs of the power supply to the two - inputs on the E682, Not that it's critical, but generally Red for + and Black for - There is a couple jumpers that need to be set on the E682 for 5V power, but I don't remember the details and our blankity-blank firewall at work wont let me download the manual so I can't look it up for you... Edit - I see Ron posted the picture while I was typing my reply... Edited October 20, 2014 by k6ccc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) Yep, I did get the jumper correct for 5V power. I'm at work too, but if I recall correctly, it was a jumper going from pin 2 to pin 3 only. Well...I haven't tried to power up my board yet, I'll do that when I get the power supply connected, but I'm pretty sure I have the jumper right. I only read those directions about 10 times... Edited October 20, 2014 by Klayfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0tm177jtjbfygbo/AABc0EqGubGmLI7jixsoP_Haa?dl=0 Here's some pics of how I did it. This one was mounted last year on the Plexi. This years 682 went on one of the mounting boards from DIY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerrymac Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I cut a piece of Plexiglas larger than the E682, since I couldn't find any plastic standoffs I cut some plastic straws ( to use as standoffs) and used brass bolts and nuts to hold the controller to the Plexiglas. I then used a couple of large heavy duty strips of Hook and Loop (Velcro) to hold the Plexiglas to the 1500. Holds well and allows me the ability to take the controller out easily. I also used the heavy duty Hook and Loop for the power supply's in another 1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) Alright, so the reality is I have next to zero chance of getting RGB this year. But if I don't, I guess I can keep working for 2015. I'm not sure how to connect the wires to the E682 and the power supply. Do you just strip the wires for the E682 side, then lower the screws? For the ps side, I'm guessing you use something else between the wires and where it connects to the unit?? My wire roll is red, blue and green. Use red and blue? Edited November 2, 2014 by Klayfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmoore Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Due to the number of requests for a plug-n-play solution that fits the E682 and a 350w PSU into the CG-1500 perfectly, we have produced a adapter plate along with all the hardware, with or without the enclosure and strain relief's: http://www.holidaycoro.com/SanDevices-E682-Mounting-Kit-CG1500-p/634-kit1.htm Hope this helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks, I may grab one. I know my next step after figuring out how to mount it is how to run the wires out of the box, since the CG-1500 is fully enclosed. When I bought it, I also bought a strain relief "kit". I assume I need to drill a hole in the box, but not sure of the details. Even more pressing for me right now is just trying to figure out how to wire the PSU to the E682. Edited November 5, 2014 by Klayfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmoore Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Thanks, I may grab one. I know my next step after figuring out how to mount it is how to run the wires out of the box, since the CG-1500 is fully enclosed. When I bought it, I also bought a strain relief "kit". I assume I need to drill a hole in the box, but not sure of the details. Even more pressing for me right now is just trying to figure out how to wire the PSU to the E682. The strain relief is a 1" ID mounting clamp that not only provides egress for the controller outputs (up to 8 per clamp) but also provide a strain relief to keep the cables from pulling on the controller wiring plugs (because they will get pulled on). If you order the housing from us, just indicate in the checkout comments that you'd like the hole pre-drilled and we'll do that for you for no additional cost. Wiring the Power supply to the E682 is easy - you just use a length of 2 wire, 14-12 AWG cable from the controller input(s) to the power supply output. The adapter plate is designed to allow you to flip the board 180 degrees so the power inputs can be on the right or left (photos and video coming soon). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Wiring the Power supply to the E682 is easy - you just use a length of 2 wire, 14-12 AWG cable from the controller input(s) to the power supply output. Sadly, that's the part that I'm unsure of. I've got the wire, but I want to be sure I do the connections right. The E682 has those little flathead screws on top that lower a small plate. Is there anything I need to attach to the end of the wire, or do I just strip a little wire and insert? On the PS side, I know I have to attach something to the end of the wire, but not sure exactly what to use... I'm not much of an electrician, but am learning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmoore Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Sadly, that's the part that I'm unsure of. I've got the wire, but I want to be sure I do the connections right. The E682 has those little flathead screws on top that lower a small plate. Is there anything I need to attach to the end of the wire, or do I just strip a little wire and insert? On the PS side, I know I have to attach something to the end of the wire, but not sure exactly what to use... I'm not much of an electrician, but am learning. I'd recommend always to tin (with solder) the wire after stripping and then you just unscrew (screw down) the terminal, insert the wire and screw it back up. The same applies to both sides of the cable - bare wires (tinned hopefully). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Good Grief Klayfish, your over thinking this thing. Strip wire and put between moving plate and staionary contact. Tighten screw. I would advise you to use a crimp on fork for times when nothing is between screw and wire. I also advise that you think ahead and only play with new things in the first half of the year. Dont wait till the 11th hour or month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmoore Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 The photos and video of the unit have been posted: http://www.holidaycoro.com/SanDevices-E682-Mounting-Kit-CG1500-p/634-kit1.htm http://youtu.be/n788F9ridFc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klayfish Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Good Grief Klayfish, your over thinking this thing. Strip wire and put between moving plate and staionary contact. Tighten screw. I would advise you to use a crimp on fork for times when nothing is between screw and wire. I also advise that you think ahead and only play with new things in the first half of the year. Dont wait till the 11th hour or month. Yeah, probably overthinking, but I don't want to create an electrical nightmare...or fire hazard. I guessed I might be able to strip the wire for the E682 side, but wasn't quite sure what to use on the PSU side, as it doesn't seem like a stripped wire would give a good connection. I typically don't wait until last minute. I actually started planning the 2014 display and started sequencing RGB back in January. I had my whole layout planned by February. But then in April, we made the decision to relocate our family and the next 4 months everything got put on hold while we did all that (prepare house for sale, pack, find jobs, etc...) and now being in a small rental house I just didn't get back to the physical build of RGB. However, I never stopped programming sequences, that's how I spend 30 minutes of my lunch break at work , so I've got 4 songs ready to go. My design for RGB is simple, just two bursts and an arch, so if I can get it ready for this year, fantastic. If not, I'll happily run last years show and continue to work for 2015. It'll be easy to redo 2013's show here...I literally have less than 1/10th the space I had last year, so the dancing lights part will take up most of my space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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