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CMB24D RGB Controller V2 - Vent Added


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Dont know why it took me so long to add this....just been busy. I added a vent to the front over the PS so it push's the hot air out of the enclosure. The vent was extended so its about 1/4" above the fan to catch all the hot air the PS produces. The vent itself is louvered and has a "bug net" so no small little creatures crawl inside. Last night I had it run for several hours powering about 500 RGBs and the inside of the enclosure was barely warm. PS itself was warm to the touch, but that's expected. You could also remove the foam piece from the bottom of the enclosure so it sucks in the outside air from the bottom and blows it out the front vent via PS fan. Good circulation.

 

http://www.store.creativelightingdisplays.com/CMB24D-RGB-DC-Controller-ReadyToGO-No-Assembly-CMB24D-RGB-RTG.htm

 

 

 

Kevin 

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OK Kevin, You know I like ya.... you know I love what you do here... and not to rag on ya.... But....

 

...... this seems a fairly simple band-aid to a bad design. (I mean that in a good way). 

 

However, what about intake?  Is there enough air intake with the thing closed so the fan works correctly?  Lack of air won't stop the fan, just not allow it to move air thru the supply.

 

The best way to implement what you have here is to make sure there is a decent seal (perhaps rubber or foam) between the vent housing and the supply.  The most efficient way to keep those supplies cool is to allow the air to draw from the outside thru the supply and then be forced to exit the enclosure via the fan without any of the exhaust air coming back into the enclosure.  I assume you glued the vent in so there is no water ingress from the vent, right?

 

You should also look at the "Pollution degree" that these supplies are rated for.  If they are not rated to take the moisture, dirt, bugs and so on that the outside gives them, they could be a fire hazard.  Most likely they would just shut down, but there is no guarantee that would be the case 100% of the time.  Filtering the incoming air ain't all bad either.

 

I understand DIY guys doing this kind of thing for a hobby for themselves, but as a trusted vendor ......... I'm just sayin.. 

 

Sorry, but this supply in the small, un-vented box thing has worried me from day one.... I am glad you came up with something that looks clean and perhaps might solve many of the issues.. but perhaps not all. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Plasma….

 

I’ve been super busy at the reg job and haven’t had time to check in for a couple of weeks. I appreciate the comments. Its makes me relook at things and see if I can do it differently.

 

The vent itself as well as the pipe that extends to the PS is glued and silicone to the enclosure door. The vent is louvered to keep from water entering. The pipe does not seal to the PS nor would using foam or rubber would be a good idea. The PS does warm enough that could make a mess of the rubber or foam. But the vent pipe sits about 1/4" over the PS fan exit and is the same size of the fan.

 

The enclosure has 8 holes across the bottom for cable entrance with a foam piece to seal. I do not use any of these holes for the RGB waterproof output cables. I drill new holes and mount with clamps. So if you remove the foam bottom, basically the whole bottom of the enclosure is the intake. Also the enclosure door is not air tight so air will come in that way too. With the fan running, intake air from the bottom and exit out the front vent. The PS housing does get warm….you can touch it with bare hand, but the hot air will be pushed out the front of the enclosure through the vent.

 

I did another test. I ran (16) 50ct RGB strings (800 total) at full all-on. Each 50ct string at 100% is 1.75A DC X 16 = 28A DC. The PS is only rated at 30A, so running at 28A is pretty much maxed. I ran it for 4 hrs with the door closed and it was 82 degree that day. In a typically show, I would only drive half that power and full power for short period, but I wanted to push it for this test. It was more than warm, but less than hot inside. Not hot to burn, catch fire or shut anything down. My CTB16PC gets warm inside too with the door closed.

 

Now I did think about building a controller where a rainproof higher amp PS (400W) was outside the enclosure and connected via waterproof cables. The enclosure with the controller would be smaller. It’s on the radar.

 

 

As for the vent itself, I will be sending out an email to all those who previously purchased without the vent so if they would like to add it.

 

 

Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

 

Real jobs do get in the way sometimes huh?  :P

 

I have a couple of suggestions.  I would suggest a sticker on the box saying what orientation the box should be mounted in.  (Louvers won't do much good if the thing is laid on it's back on the ground).

 

Removing that padding material at the bottom completely may be an issue in wetter times and places much more so than at 82 deg in the parched, "water starved" :( state we call home!  (Please do a rain dance for California ya'll. We would appreciate it big time). 

 

You are correct that there should be some air intake around the edges and I am sure that helps.  I would check to see what the Pollution Degree rating of that supply is.  As assembled  these are meant to be out in the elements  for perhaps months at a time.  Having a higher Pollution Degree rating could help with longevity.  

 

With all that said:
One of the saving graces of this hobby is that we do flashy blinky as opposed to all on all the time.  That for sure would will help with this "supply in a box".... Flashy Blinky could lower our power dissipation by as much as 80% over an average night as compared to a constant load.  Couple that with the fact that at night it is cooler, and in the mid west and east, it gets down right friggin cold at night,  this assembly should work for the hobby we enjoy with some common sense use..  In the east perhaps even better without the fan vent. 

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  • 1 month later...

I'd be interested in retro fitting mine with a vent too, if I can get just the vent.

Send me a PM with your zip and I'll get a shipping quote.

Kits are $5 ea.

From previous shipments within the US, shipping has been about $4 for up to 3 kits.

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