caniac Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I have almost the same set-up just 1 size smaller pipe.I use 2" on the bottom then 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" on top. Each pipe slides in about 1 foot into the larger piece.The 1 1/4" fits pretty snug into the 1 1/2"3 Eye bolts are slid though the connection point for guy wires. This allows me to hang all the lights from a short ladder and then 2 of my strongest friends help lift the center pole to full height. Then we lay on the ground and huff and puff while we catch our breath and swear this is the last year we do it like this.At least, that's the way it's been for 7 years now.mine is a little easier, I use the Monkhouse Portable Hole II. 200+lbs of concrete, on its side, hook the lights to the top and slowly move it upright. I number my strands, takes a little extra time to unravel but not much. 30mins and it is up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shubb Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 mine is a little easier, I use the Monkhouse Portable Hole II. 200+lbs of concrete, on its side, hook the lights to the top and slowly move it upright. I number my strands, takes a little extra time to unravel but not much. 30mins and it is up. Do you hang the lights with it fully extended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Do you hang the lights with it fully extended?yep, have it laying on it's side. hook the lights to the topper and then flip it up. I take a 6ft level to use as a guide from the center pole and start with strand one, strand nine, and whichever number is to the left and right, then fill out the "pies". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmonkman Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 My answers one at a time in order of appearance.Yes, a single 20' piece will flex more than a 10' piece but it is STILL stronger than any coupling, fitting or pin, with the exception of professional welding.guy wire is needed. For a 20' 3 wires near the center are fine. Place them in a triangular patternA concrete foundation is HIGHLY recommended. Mine is 18" in diameter and 42" deep. I used a PVC sleeve so I can easily pull it out, lay it down, install MT hardware and stand back up. (This is my flag pole for the other 11 months)Yes, a mega tree will still make a sound. Especially if it hits the power line and your neighbors tv goes out. Then you WILL hear it.Aluminum or PVC is just asking for trouble. Wind and ice loads are only 1 factor. Weight is another and heat. As metals expand they become weaker. Yes, even up north. Direct sunlight can do amazing things.A piece of rebar pounded in the ground may or may not be a good anchor. There are two factors to consider. What size rebar and what type of soils. Never use anything less than #5 or #6 bar. For sandy and/or dry soils you will need at least 3-4 feet driven at no less than 30 degrees. For clayey or well compacted gravels you can get away with less. The easiest way is drive it a couple feet, then if you can move it more than an inch, drive it more.Max Paul, Beeiilll and Greg Young make a lot of great points. And Jimswinder has been very helpful tooVERY IMPORTANT - Yes, galvanized pipe is bent at 90's all the time, but it used for gas or water and IS NOT used to support a mega tree. You can bend these pipes and bury them or secure them to a wall, truss or stud in a building. However, when they are heated they lose structural integrity. Remember gas and water steel pipe are not built for structural applications. They are built to last for many years before they are ruined by corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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