Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

I'm a Noob, again! RGB strips and corners


iresq

Recommended Posts

Taking the plunge for 2013. Starting with window outlines. Probably going dumb here, 5050.

Still How does one do the corners? I'm assuming the stuff can't bend that tight, or can it?

If not, do I just cut and use connectors/solder jumpers?

Photos would be great!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If not, do I just cut and use connectors/solder jumpers?

I have not used strips for anything except under cabinet mounting for inside, but, I've read enough post to say, this is the prefered method.

Now, you could go with CC Pixels or a string of dumb RGB nodes, which resemble the LOR CCPixels.Most have between 4"-6" spacing, thus no problems wiyh the corners.

I will be using myCCPixels on my windows this year. I have a roll of PEX tubing and will drill 200 individual holes, mount the Pixels in each hole and then, mount the entire thing to my window frames. I'll have full control of each pixel of course and the strings will have zero stress on them.

Of course if using the CCPs or dumb nodes, you will not get that continuous light all the way around. It will look more like C7 or C9 bulbs, but with the whole range of colors the pixels or nodes offer.

Just an option you can be thinking about while you're in your decision making process.

Hope this helps,

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can find strip connectors and L corners, I have tried a few of them and Unless you find some much better than I did I would STAY AWAY from them. poor connections and come loose to easy. I cut and solder with a jumper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I have some pixel ideas also but just starting dumb. I have seen jumpers but am not afraid to solder. I guess I'll look at soldering some other type of physical connector as I'm trying to incorporate breakdown and storage into my design.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive cut, soldered, re-weather proofed for a total of 16 window frames with the smart strip. Essentially the same concept smart or dumb, you have leads to lengthen to make the bend. Remember as well if you really wanted to you can make a frame and run the srtip on the inside. Even at 90 degrees from viewing angle, a lot of these strips are bright.

Dont be afraid to cut and solder, just make sure your ready with the right tools and weather proofing needs. I followed in Fast Eddys way, shrink tubing and outdoor silicone. Not a single water issue.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be fooled by the solderless connectors! They might work during your build during the year, but will fail miserably come showtime and cold. Not fun soldering when it's cold out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be fooled by the solderless connectors! They might work during your build during the year, but will fail miserably come showtime and cold. Not fun soldering when it's cold out.

That's the best time to solder.... in the dark with hands shaking from the cold on top of a unstable ladder that's sinking into the dirt trying to get your eyes to focus with all the other lights still blinking.

What could be better??

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the best time to solder.... in the dark with hands shaking from the cold on top of a unstable ladder that's sinking into the dirt trying to get your eyes to focus with all the other lights still blinking.

What could be better??

You must be younger than me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut my CCRs and soldered short wire jumpers at all the corners. I just gooped them with silicon and haven't had any issues after two years. Work was tight and I can't imagine how you guys got shrink tube on there.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut my CCRs and soldered short wire jumpers at all the corners. I just gooped them with silicon and haven't had any issues after two years. Work was tight and I can't imagine how you guys got shrink tube on there.

Steve

When you make the cut I would add a 4 inch section of 3:1 clear shrink tube on each open end. From there solder in your wires as I did all mine at a minimum of 6 inches of add wire. Pull the shrink tube that was placed over the strip ( the clear weather proof tubing) and silicone the heck out of it. Heat so it forces the silicone into every crevice and BAM weatherproof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't cut my dumb strips at all on the bends. I just formed it on the corners with a little bump on the corner to allow for the turn. With these dumb strips, they show enough light from the side view that you don't even notice if there is a bump or not and the light from the street view is continuous.

To me, this was easier and your not having to cut, resolder, mess with resealing, making jumpers or any of that.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The biggest thing to rememeber is that if you are going to solder these, which is exactly what you should do... make sure you clean the original coating off completely.... and if you are OLD like me, wear maginfiers when you solder :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't hafta be old to wear those brother. It's just easier to see and less eye strain. Whether you're 25 or 48 like me, need glasses or not, use the jewlers magnifying goggles. Your eyes will thank you.

Now, when I cut mine for the under cabinet lighting at home, it was pretty simple to do. Just make sure you connect the wires to the right pad on the strip. That's where the jewelers goggles or a magnifying glass comes in handy

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...