Can't wait question

[David Spangler]

New for 2013. I layed out a plan for my lights next year and went and bought all the lights I need on sale. I'm starting to build my displays or at least getting the material together. I've have also downloaded the demo software and started playing with that. My question is which controller or contollers, probably 32 channels, should I buy? And is it worth waiting for the spring sale? I'm sensing if I wait it sounds like the stuff on sale goes fast and there is a chance what I want I won't be able to get. How fast does the stuff sell and is it like those internet wars where it's a lot of people on line and you can't order?

Thanks for any help.

[T17443]

Sign up to be on the LOR notification list and wait for the sale(s). The savings are great and you willget more for the money. I was impatient last year and bought 2 controllers during the spring sale. I then rounded out my display during the summer sale. I plan to do the same this year. If you want to see the magic now use the Visualizer. It does a fabulous job. I lived by the Visualizer this year and was amazed how much my actual display looked like the rendering. During the sale you will be able to buy 48 channels for nearly the same price of the 32 you would buy now. As far as whick controllers you should buy, what type of lights are you using? Always get the 16 channel controllers as opposed to the 8 and if you are using LEDs the 15 amp version will be more than enough. If you are using incans do your math before ordering to ensure the controller will handle your amp load.

[David Spangler]

I'm using LEDs. Is there a big differance between the residential controllers and the commerical other then the case and fuse access? Are the commerical worhth the extra money?

[Surfing4Dough]

Welcome to the hobby. Right idea to start working on all this now. Keep working on the demo software to get the basics of sequencing (or start working on sequences for your 2013 show).

Watch all of these:

http://www.lightoram...orialLinks.html

and these:

http://www.lightoram...ck_Start_Guides

With regards to what to buy:

Buy this starter kit:

http://store.lightor...com/spk800.html

And buy as many of these as you need (I would get the Card Assembled ones which are simple to assemble with no soldering needed, or get the kits if you like to solder) :

http://store.lightor...tb16pcpage.html

I would wait until the spring sale to at least try to get in on the better deals--they do go very fast though. You can always order at regular price after the sale if you don't get them at the sale price. LOR does have a summer sale too (no limit of inventory, so they don't run out). However, most newbies like to have at least their first controller in hand by that point so they can start playing with it. I would also keep an eye out on the forums here for used controllers from experienced members (somebody that has been a member for at least a year). There have already been plenty of postings for items for sale during the past week -- another good way to get a good deal. The equipment is very reliable so I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used one at the right price (and usually shipped cheaper than directly from LOR).

[shfr26]

Get the PC version, no need for more if you are using a computer to run them. The first sale is a very quick one, usually sells out in about 10-15 minutes. There are several people selling now and a few will be selling in a few weeks. Check the coffee shop and sell who has what and the price.

[Surfing4Dough]

Is there a big differance between the residential controllers and the commerical other then the case and fuse access? Are the commerical worhth the extra money?

Nope. They both control lights the exact same way if you are planning to synch to music (either from your computer or a director). Commercial (ShowTime Pro) controllers can run stand-alone, but just for silent animation, not to music. To do music, you need to use a computer or a director for either type.

[hawgfan]

If I can't get in on the spring sale how long does it take them to get controllers back in stock, I'll probably be at work when the announcement comes down, plus I need to wait on the good ole tax return

[james campbell]

Nope. They both control lights the exact same way if you are planning to synch to music (either from your computer or a director). Commercial (ShowTime Pro) controllers can run stand-alone, but just for silent animation, not to music. To do music, you need to use a computer or a director for either type.

plus I think the main difference is the commercial ones are ul listed,and have metal boxes,but function the same way

[Surfing4Dough]

plus I think the main difference is the commercial ones are ul listed,and have metal boxes,but function the same way

More or less, both are designed for safety (and weather). For one though, they paid the money to be able to prove it and receive the stamp of approval (which may be a requirement for a business/commercial display).

If I can't get in on the spring sale how long does it take them to get controllers back in stock, I'll probably be at work when the announcement comes down, plus I need to wait on the good ole tax return

They will resume normal orders at regular price immediately.

[htebault]

Having lived through my first year - there are a couple of planning items I found very helpful.

1. The Visualizer - absolutely agree it is KEY to development (a second monitor also helps)

2. Design and keep track of every power use to know how much power you are going to use. I used an Excel spreadsheet so I could track what each channel, each 8 channel group, each controller and utlimately the whole show used.

3. Using the spreadsheet - I then laid out where the controllers where to be located and had new circuit breakers installed to feed the new GFI outlets that are only used for the LOR show.

I use a mix of incan's and led's, it all worked exactly as designed. The only item I had was during heavy rainfall - was one controller would trip the GFI - I was able to limit the problem by making sure the tomato cage tree's were isolated with PVC from the grass/water. It gave me great lessons on putting out a display that withstands the elements.

[Surfing4Dough]

2. Design and keep track of every power use to know how much power you are going to use. I used an Excel spreadsheet so I could track what each channel, each 8 channel group, each controller and utlimately the whole show used.

3. Using the spreadsheet - I then laid out where the controllers where to be located and had new circuit breakers installed to feed the new GFI outlets that are only used for the LOR show.

This utility can be very useful for this:

http://www.t2lights.com/christmas/lorutility.html

[PMC]

I would recommend to all new users to get a Kill-A-Watt Meter

Edited January 7, 2013 by PMC

[Surfing4Dough]

I would recommend to all new users to get a Kill-A-Watt Meter

Agree. Most will find that this model will do everything needed but is cheaper ($18 shipped):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001

[plasmadrive]

More or less, both are designed for safety (and weather). For one though, they paid the money to be able to prove it and receive the stamp of approval (which may be a requirement for a business/commercial display).

Wellllllll....... technicallyyyyyyy...... NEC says that any controller used must be "listed". That includes residential. This applies to the 120vac controllers.. not to the 12vdc or 5vdc controllers if I remember correctly..

Howeverrrrrr..... I doubt any inspector will come around being a d#ck at Christmas and asking to see your "listed" controller or he will shut you down... Sometimes common sense and the threat of public humiliation actually work.. even on inspectors..

[james campbell]

Having lived through my first year - there are a couple of planning items I found very helpful.

1. The Visualizer - absolutely agree it is KEY to development (a second monitor also helps)

2. Design and keep track of every power use to know how much power you are going to use. I used an Excel spreadsheet so I could track what each channel, each 8 channel group, each controller and utlimately the whole show used.

3. Using the spreadsheet - I then laid out where the controllers where to be located and had new circuit breakers installed to feed the new GFI outlets that are only used for the LOR show.

I use a mix of incan's and led's, it all worked exactly as designed. The only item I had was during heavy rainfall - was one controller would trip the GFI - I was able to limit the problem by making sure the tomato cage tree's were isolated with PVC from the grass/water. It gave me great lessons on putting out a display that withstands the elements.

kudos to you for working out the problem and not just eliminating the gfcis. some folks around here have done just the opposite

[steve synek]

Wellllllll....... technicallyyyyyyy...... NEC says that any controller used must be "listed". That includes residential. This applies to the 120vac controllers.. not to the 12vdc or 5vdc controllers if I remember correctly..

Howeverrrrrr..... I doubt any inspector will come around being a d#ck at Christmas and asking to see your "listed" controller or he will shut you down... Sometimes common sense and the threat of public humiliation actually work.. even on inspectors..

Technically................Don't call me a D****, but this is correct. Thank goodness in my 14 years, I only had to tell someone it was time to take down the lights as they weren't listed for use over 90 days. (I had to act on a complaint that the red lights lit for Valentine's day looked bad in the neighborhood. Thank goodness they didn't mind complying with my request). I would have to argue that even the DC controllers are required to be listed. .............Do as I say, not as I do-- I have to go check my Tupperware containers to see what amps/volts/temp they are listed for

Steve

[plasmadrive]

Technically................Don't call me a D****, but this is correct. Thank goodness in my 14 years, I only had to tell someone it was time to take down the lights as they weren't listed for use over 90 days. (I had to act on a complaint that the red lights lit for Valentine's day looked bad in the neighborhood. Thank goodness they didn't mind complying with my request). I would have to argue that even the DC controllers are required to be listed. .............Do as I say, not as I do-- I have to go check my Tupperware containers to see what amps/volts/temp they are listed for

Steve

LMAO!!!

[steve synek]

I just took a moment and read the code again. As a decorator, I would argue against my above statement. ( one way or the other I am going to win on this issue since I am on both sides) The code on temp. installations is not specific on control of the lights. It does talk about the "decorative Lighting" must be listed. I would argue that the control is not the lighting. It does say branch circuits shall originate in an "approved" (something the Local Authority can do-approve- without the requirement for a listing) power outlet, switch board, ect...............................

As a general rule, Inspectors like to see listings as it helps identify specific requirements for the installation of equipment. I am thankful that I don't have to check "things" that plug into outlets as part of my job.

Steve

[DGBradley]

^{My two-bits: Make sure you have the power to run your controllers. Now is a good time to get those new circuits installed if needed. I discovered the hard way this year that my outlet had reached it's max load. Fortunately is was only a burnt up outlet to replace. It could have been much worse.}

Edited January 10, 2013 by DGBradley