Tim Fischer Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I was fortunate enough to see the owner of Ultralit, the company behind the LightKeeper Pro and the new LEDKeeper, demo the latter product at the Chicago C3 conference. It looked very promising, so I knew I had to get my hands on one and try it myself. As luck would have it, my order from 1000bulbs.com came today.Note that there are two versions of this product. I ordered the "green" version which plugs into an electric outlet. The "yellow" version runs on batteries, and was the version which was demoed in Chicago. I'll try to note differences as we go.I headed out to my box of dead and partially working LED strings and grabbed a few candidates. First up was a string of LED icicles. These were bought at Sam's Club 3 years ago. Due to a mishap with icicles on the roof, and the fact that these lights rust terribly, there were numerous sections out and last season I just replaced that whole side of the house. I also grabbed a string of 100 multi LED's that was half out.First up you plug the defective light string into the wall. You then use the included "clothespins" to mark off the bad section. If the whole string is out, you can put the clothespins at each end, otherwise you'd put it right after the last working diode. Then with the Green tool, you plug the tool into the same circuit (the wall or whatever) as the LED's. With the yellow tool you actually unplug the lights from the wall and plug them into the outlet on the yellow tool.Then you find a place roughly halfway between the clothespins. Find a wire going directly into a socket and put it into the tool. Then you pull and hold the trigger, which causes the tool to pierce into the LED string. The tool does a good job of lining up the wire to the pin, something I found problematic with the "pin and wire" manual method that I have formerly used. Then you flip a 2-way switch on the tool (for the green version, I believe the Yellow version does not have the switch). One of the ways should light up one side of the 'dead' section or the other. Make note of this, and move the clothespin on the "good" side to where you just pierced. You've now reduced your "dead" section by 1/2, and you then find the halfway point of this, and repeat the process. You continue, moving the marker clips each time, until you are down to one bad diode. When you test on each side of this diode it will light up either half of the string. This is your culprit and needs to be replaced. Working with the icicle lights was challenging, but it wasn't the tool's fault, but the fact that they are not in a linear wiring pattern. Even so, I was able to quickly isolate problems in two sections - the first was just a loose (replaceable) bulb, and the second had one of the leads rusted off. I then turned to the multi set, which was a high-quality sealed set. The tool worked even better on this one, being in a straight line. There were 50 bulbs in the dead section (it was a 100-count string) but I was able to isolate the problem down to one green diode within a couple of minutes (and no doubt my technique will get faster as I get used to the tool). Unfortunately, I had tried to diagnose this string with the "pin and wire" method last winter and had blown several diodes from overvoltaging them (something this tool is supposed to prevent). They still pass power, but no longer light up. Having this tool on hand would have saved that from happening.Once you isolate the bad diode, you have three courses of action:If it's a removable-bulb string, find a suitable replacement.If it's a sealed string, find a sacrificial donor string of the same type, and cut and splice in a diode from that one. Note that you will have to try it both ways since reversing the polarity will not light the string.If neither of the above are feasible, the product ships with 2 "replacement pods" and evidently you can buy more. These would be handy for quick and dirty field repairs, until you can solder in an appropriate replacement. You can simply cut off the bad diode with a scissors, insert the wires into the pod, and hand-tighten; No tools needed.So do I recommend this product? Absolutely! It is very easy to use, and it's the only thing on the market that will actually help you diagnose LED problems. I paid $25 plus shipping for my unit. I believe Menards will be carrying the yellow unit for about $22. At these prices, the tool should very quickly pay for itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imawlkr2 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Thanks for the review Tim. I was sold before your review. Now to just get one..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Thanks for the great review Tim. Sounds like it would actually be beneficial to have BOTH tools in your arsenal.Again, very nice review, definitely sold me on purchasing BOTH as soon as the wife's checks arrive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Fischer Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 Thanks for the great review Tim. Sounds like it would actually be beneficial to have BOTH tools in your arsenal.Again, very nice review, definitely sold me on purchasing BOTH as soon as the wife's checks arrive!Either one will diagnose problems. It might be handy to have one to carry around the display and not worry about plugging in... If Menards has any at half or after-season I'll pick another up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maccnh Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I got my ledkepper today to, and went back and order the other one not for led and was shipped out today.. Will use mine some day do to this is my first year doing a light show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Mitchell Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Thanks Tim. I ordered one for myself today too. I bet 1000 bulbs is wondering why they are suddenly getting all these orders for this tester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Cherry Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 (edited) Tim, thanks for the review. your review is accurate except on replacing an LED on a sealed string. The switch and the bulb tester will help you find the correct polarity of the light string section and also on the replacement LED. You will notice on the blub tester it is maked with a + & - mark and also the switch.Here is how to use it.Before removing the bad LED take one side of the LED wire and using the switch find out what polarity of the switch turns on the good LED's on that side, make a note of the polarty of the switch. Now take your replacement LED and touch the wires to the contacts of the bulb tester, if it does not light reverse the LED, it should light, now mark the polarity of the LED wire that is the same as the switch polarity. You will splice these together once you remove the defective LED. the other wires just attach. Turn the string back on and all lights should be on.WARNING:Make sure you disconnect the light string from AC power before trying to replace the defective LED with this method, or you can distroy the entire string section in a fraction of a second. The soldering iron tip can make a shorten ground path and blow the LED's on that section.I recommend a good power strip with a OFF/ON switch or unplug the string. Edited September 14, 2012 by Dennis Cherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Fischer Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Thanks for the clarification, Dennis.And thanks again for the great tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 (edited) Either one will diagnose problems. It might be handy to have one to carry around the display and not worry about plugging in... If Menards has any at half or after-season I'll pick another up.That's what I was thinking, one for outside use when everything is set and placed, and the electric one for indoors when you put up or pull out the LED strings before committing them outside to the display or inside your favorite way to store them for the next season.So was going with BOTH have a place, time and best use for what we do! Edited September 14, 2012 by Orville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eurbani Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Here is a link to the products's page: http://www.ledkeeper.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Fischer Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 Here is a link to the products's page: http://www.ledkeeper.com/They really need to update their website. The product doesn't look like that (they show a prototype) nor do the repair pods (the production ones just twist on with no tools). Plus the manual refers to additional tips out on the website which don't exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Cherry Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) Just to let you know about happenings with the LED Keeper. It has been submitted to several organizations for new innovations and so far we have made the cut for 2 awards. Still have a few more to hear from.First one is the Chicago Innovation Awards, 280 submissions for this year and we have made the final 75. Now the public has a chance to vote. The 5 finalist from the 75 will be announce on October 22nd.If you feel like helping with your vote here is the link.http://www.chicagoin....chnologies-incSecond one we just received notification today for the 2013 Edison Awards. we are a 2013 finalist and can now display a logo for the LED Keeper until May 1, 2013. Edited September 20, 2012 by Dennis Cherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Young Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Dennis:I'll echo the thanks for making this available to folks.I used mine after receiving it from you at LSH early this summer.I quickly made my repairs for this season.Slick!Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Cherry Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Dennis:I'll echo the thanks for making this available to folks.I used mine after receiving it from you at LSH early this summer.I quickly made my repairs for this season.Slick!GregThanks for the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magish01 Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Just got my LED Keeper yesterday. Makes me want to foul up a light string just so I can play with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTechLights Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 We have the LED Keeper "E" (Green) versions in stock and ready for shipping. The cost is $22.49 plus S&H. https://store.hitechlights.com/product_p/ledkeeper-e.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Before removing the bad LED Could you just cut the bad light out of the string and splice the wires back? Instead of a 100-bulb string, it would be a 99? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Cherry Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Could you just cut the bad light out of the string and splice the wires back? Instead of a 100-bulb string, it would be a 99?Yes you can and will work, but if you forget that string has one less LED's and you do it again then it may or may not work very long.One less LED increases the current about 10% and starts shortening the life of the remaining LED's just like the incandescents.Replace the defective LED or use the POD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J. M. Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 So what is in the pod? From the video it seems to be a standard wire splice clamp. What is the difference between that and directly splicing the wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Cherry Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 So what is in the pod? From the video it seems to be a standard wire splice clamp. What is the difference between that and directly splicing the wires?If has a compansion resistor to replace the LED you reomved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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