RGB Strip Connecting Wire

[mattpatt]

I've seen it here before on what type of wire everyone uses to connect the strips together but I can't find the thread.

Would something like this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PIN-RGB-Extension-Wire-Cable-Cord-for-3528-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-1m-5m-10m-50m-/180940376628?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&var=&hash=item2a20e30a34

What wire does everyone use? I thought about cat5 with each wire doubled up but not sure about that.

Thanks,

Matt

[spomalley]

The most popular wire choices are CAT5 and 4core Security Cable.

[edvas69]

The cable you linked to is cheap and doesnt even mention the guage of the wire, i would look at using security/alarm cable over that cable or CAT5 cable, the reasons being that most people who use CAT5 cable will use solid core due to its cheap price, this may seem a good idea the first year, but as time goes on and the CAT5 cable has been used many times then you run a major risk of the solid cores breaking as solid core is designed for one time permanent installations. CAT5 is also rated at approx 1 amp per core where as the security/alarm cable affords at least double that per core.

The cost of using stranded CAT5 cable then starts to become a bit more expensive and this is where the 4 core security/alarm cable becomes a good choice to use.

There are lots of 22 gauge per core security cable available on ebay when doing a search on alarm cable, you can also find it in 18 guage for those runs with extra distance and load requirements.

[jerrymac]

Not being a great solderer (if that is a word), I am using 4 core 18 gauge speaker wire, but found it VERY difficult to solder to the strip lights due to is large (relative) gauge. I found using a short piece of the wire you linked to worked great for soldering to the strip then soldered to the 18 gauge speaker wire. A lot more work but it prevented me from damaging the contacts on the strips soldering the 18 guage to the contact.

[scubado]

Why solder? WBottomley pointed me to this vendor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-RGB-Connector-PCB-Adapter-3528-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-10mm-Strip-Strip-D-/221046899138?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item33776c01c2

[flogger7]

Why solder? WBottomley pointed me to this vendor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-RGB-Connector-PCB-Adapter-3528-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-10mm-Strip-Strip-D-/221046899138?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item33776c01c2

How's that do in the weather?

[WilliamS]

weather proof with silicone or heat shrink or the combo of both. If William pointed you in this direction then it must work. I havent seen him give bad advice yet.

[scubado]

I would agree with silicon, I've seen exposed contacts start to corrode with moisture. The vendor also has butt connectors which would be great for replacing a bad section or joining small leftover pieces together.

[WilliamS]

if i could find those i the 2811 3 wire setup my display would be done

[vincerules]

I plan on using the same connectors Jeff linked to from Ray Wu.

Jeff, do you have a pic showing how you inject power? I am thinking of using a combo of two of those connectors at power injection points, with one going from the previous 2811 line and the other with the +V -V from the PS.

[WilliamS]

The 2811 is a 3 wire setup not 4. So that would not work, or if it does the connectors may overlap the inputs on the strips. Remember 2811 is power, ground, data. The 2801,6803 the list goes on, but those are power, ground, data, and clock.

[edvas69]

The thing i do like about using security/alarm cable is that it is double insulated so it affords more mechanical protection and is white instead of multiple colours so its looks better as well especially over time where the exposed coloured wire will loose its colour due to UV. the other advantage is because its round instead of flat, it is able to be easily bent in any direction whilst still staying flat.

In the end all the above options will work, so one must decide what will fit their needs and budget best

One word of caution is that these cable alternatives are only designed for Extra low voltage applications (under 50vdc), So all the above examples should not be used with mains voltage applications

[vincerules]

The 2811 is a 3 wire setup not 4. So that would not work, or if it does the connectors may overlap the inputs on the strips. Remember 2811 is power, ground, data. The 2801,6803 the list goes on, but those are power, ground, data, and clock.

Are you talking about the Ray Wu connectors that Jeff linked to? They are 4 pin connectors but they are not power, ground, data and clock. They are 4 wires that can be used for anything you want. The 2811's are only 3 wires, which means one of the 4 on the connector will not be used.

[vincerules]

The thing i do like about using security/alarm cable is that it is double insulated so it affords more mechanical protection and is white instead of multiple colours so its looks better as well especially over time where the exposed coloured wire will loose its colour due to UV. the other advantage is because its round instead of flat, it is able to be easily bent in any direction whilst still staying flat. In the end all the above options will work, so one must decide what will fit their needs and budget best One word of caution is that these cable alternatives are only designed for Extra low voltage applications (under 50vdc), So all the above examples should not be used with mains voltage applications

I like the ideas of your security wire suggestion. I have seen this on other sites, but nobody ever says what is a good gauge to use. For power only from the power supply to the pixel strings (not for the mains). Would 18 be good or 16? If 18 then I think i will go with this from monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=4046&seq=1&format=2 $24 for 250'

So if I understand you correctly, you want to have a power source at the beginning of a string but have the Data and Clock (if it has one) string along? I use Brown for hot, Black for not (hot) blue for clock and green for data. At each union connect Green and Blue through the waterproof connector and don't connect Brown and Black. Heat shrink the end away from the power source and use the other to power the section. This leads to the question... is it possible to also string the DC along and inject power from multiple supplies at each, or every other connector? Can anyone see a major issue with it or is it already common practice?

Jeff

Yea, that is my question about how did you connect the power. Do you have it hardwired? I plan on using 2811 strips (which are 3 wires) and I am thinking of using a combo of the 2 core and 3 core waterproof connectors from Ray. I will use the 3 core for the power from the power supply and the 2 core to pass on the data between the strips. This way there will be no chance of connecting the wrong things to each other. So I will connect to strips directly to each other and then power connectors will run behind straight from the power supply. That way everything is easy to take a part and change or add to if needed.

Edited August 10, 2012 by vincerules

[Guest wbottomley]

How's that do in the weather?

We'll see when my 150 arrive next week.

[edvas69]

I like the ideas of your security wire suggestion. I have seen this on other sites, but nobody ever says what is a good gauge to use. For power only from the power supply to the pixel strings (not for the mains). Would 18 be good or 16? If 18 then I think i will go with this from monoprice http://www.monoprice...&seq=1&format=2 $24 for 250'

.

This heavily dependant on 2 main factors which are distance and the current being drawn down the cable. The guage wire used will determine the amount of volatge drop that will occur.

To best explain how you work out what size guage cable is best to use, then i reccommend downloading the ACL 101 Lighting manual which has a whole section with charts and diagrams on voltage drop and selecting the correct guage wire for your needs. Refer to page 41 onwards.

[WilliamS]

Are you talking about the Ray Wu connectors that Jeff linked to? They are 4 pin connectors but they are not power, ground, data and clock. They are 4 wires that can be used for anything you want. The 2811's are only 3 wires, which means one of the 4 on the connector will not be used.

This is not correct. You are right it can be used for any purpose of power or data and I assume this is the point that Jeff likes, but the layout of the pins on the 2811 strips are not as they are on the 2801 or RGB dumb strips. The solder pads are larger and still centered with only 3. This may cause the center pins becuase they are offset in the number of 4 to bridge the outer and inner pads. The link below is for the 2811 strips, the RGB or 4 wire smart strips have 4 pads. The link below it is for the 4 wire strip. I have both. The 2811 will be the bulk of my house, the 2801 is single led per pixel for my Mighty Mini Mega tree, and matrix. As well the strips that Im using the 2811 3 wire setup, although say 14mm width on the page they are displayed are 10mm. The 6803 and 2801 are both on 14mm strip. All things being equal if they were 14mm strips they still would not work for the 3 wire setup.

http://www.aliexpres..._568458133.html

http://www.aliexpres..._465132154.html

Edited August 10, 2012 by GoofyGuy

[edvas69]

very good point raised there goofy, when getting the premade connectors you must ensure that the connector size you get will match that of the strip you have, I have seen many different width strip in the past and one connector will not work with all. As far as the 3 wire strip the 4 pin will not work as the pins will not align correctly. So when buying these connectors make sure that they will suit the strip you plan to use them for.

[WilliamS]

Yep, I've got a set of the 4 core waterproof connectors soldered up to my one WS2811 ribbon. Works just fine I just flipped and heat shrank the spare wire. I thought about doubling up the +12, but why? You gain nothing, it's more work, and you double the thickness of wire you're trying to solder to a small pad. There's no difference between the 3 or 4 core in this case, you just abandon the extra wire. A little bit of silicone sealer and the solder joints are water tight.

Jeff

Im not refering to the waterproof connectors but the easy snap on ones. These will not work with a 3 pin setup.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item33776c01c2

I think we got sideways on the topic of what was going on and who was refering to what. Using the waterproof connectors is a no brainer. As for the connectors that were in question those will not work. The 4 core connectors like Jeff posted will work with 2,3,4 pin setups. Im using them for not only data, but becuase I ordered so many, the 4 core ones will be used 100% for power injection. This will keep any issues like Jeff had from happening. The 3 core will be power data ground. the 4 core will only be power. You send power to the wrong part of the strip, and now you have an expensive jump rope.

Also a bit of warning, order all your connectors in 1 shot, this includeds extentions you may need. Batch to batch the colors can change, what pin is what color can change, heck even the connectors sometimes change just a little bit where they wont work with your older order.

Edited August 10, 2012 by GoofyGuy

[Jay Czerwinski]

Why solder? WBottomley pointed me to this vendor: http://www.ebay.com/...=item33776c01c2

So before I order - - does anyone know if this works with LOR CCR?