John Slade Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 You can insure your channel selection is correct... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Use the hardware utility as John stated. Open the console and change to the unit ID you assigned on the controller. Move the bars up and down to verify your lights are turning on and the controller is set up correctly. Close Utility.Now open the Sequence Editor. First verify your Network Pref. Make sure the network adapter that is connected to the controller is set to the correct port. You can verify the network adapter in “Device Manager” in the Windows control panel. You will need to close the SE and reopen if you made any changes.Once the network is set up correctly, open the sequence. Verify the seq channels are assign to the correct controller and network. To do this, click on the channel button. A window will pop open showing the channel settings. Verify the Device Type (Light-O-Rama Controller), Network (your Network adapter), Unit (Controller set ID) and Circuit (channel). Makes sure the “Control Lights” is checked under the play button and you should be good.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oj70chevy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 in post #10 can anyone tell me what the adjustment on the left is that has the arrow + going clockwise is for?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flogger7 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Voltage adjustment. Use a multi-meter on the v+ and v- terminals and turn it In my case, I have one set of runs that is a bit longer than I would like. So I have the ps dialed up to 12.4 volts - at the far end of the run it reads closer to 12 volts due to voltage drop along the way.When I received another one of my supplies, it was delivering just under 12 volts and needed to be dialed up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 When i get home this afternoon i'll give all those a try. I was pretty sure last night that i did everything, but obviously i missed something. I'll go step by step through your recommendation. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oj70chevy Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 flogger7 wrote:Voltage adjustment. Use a multi-meter on the v+ and v- terminals and turn it In my case, I have one set of runs that is a bit longer than I would like. So I have the ps dialed up to 12.4 volts - at the far end of the run it reads closer to 12 volts due to voltage drop along the way.When I received another one of my supplies, it was delivering just under 12 volts and needed to be dialed up a bit.great info here. just got my ps yesterday. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 drivemewilder wrote: The DC board is my 10th controller, so on the dip switch i have it set to 1 0.Someone will say I'm picking a nit, but the number that comes after 09 is 0A. (Although the LOR network allows gaps in the unit numbers.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Steven wrote: drivemewilder wrote: The DC board is my 10th controller, so on the dip switch i have it set to 1 0.Someone will say I'm picking a nit, but the number that comes after 09 is 0A. (Although the LOR network allows gaps in the unit numbers.)You're right, and i'm glad to see someone calling me on it. Since it's my 10th controller i set the switch to 10. But in the software 0A comes after 09. So i tried all the different combo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 CLD Kevin wrote:Use the hardware utility as John stated. Open the console and change to the unit ID you assigned on the controller. Move the bars up and down to verify your lights are turning on and the controller is set up correctly. Close Utility.Now open the Sequence Editor. First verify your Network Pref. Make sure the network adapter that is connected to the controller is set to the correct port. You can verify the network adapter in “Device Manager” in the Windows control panel. You will need to close the SE and reopen if you made any changes.Once the network is set up correctly, open the sequence. Verify the seq channels are assign to the correct controller and network. To do this, click on the channel button. A window will pop open showing the channel settings. Verify the Device Type (Light-O-Rama Controller), Network (your Network adapter), Unit (Controller set ID) and Circuit (channel). Makes sure the “Control Lights” is checked under the play button and you should be good.KevinNothing is happening when I move the bars up and down in the console. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Got it! The jumper wire i'm using between the Board the the Dumb strips was broken somewhere near the center. It was coiled up and i noticed a kink. When i cut out the kink and spliced back together, it began working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums114 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 So I want to work with RGB strips next year and looking what I need to buy to work with my LOR. I see the power unit in the post but what other components do I need to buy - would it just be that board thats in this post (link for that also...)? Also what is a good brand for RGB strips (links, etc...)?Then I am assuming you just connect that board to the LOR system??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Loads of info on these forums, definately look around. A few minutes of searching will yield you tons of info that you are looking for. I know it can often times take hours to go through everything and find the answers you are looking for. Here is a good link that i found useful:http://forums.lightorama.com/forum80/32218.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums114 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ok - I see what I need - two questions:1. So you just use a normal network cable from the main LOR to this DC board then?2. I see 2 fuses on the board and 2 spades for the input power. Do you need to run power to both either side of the fuses or is just one side needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 drums114 wrote: 1. So you just use a normal network cable from the main LOR to this DC board then?Correct.2. I see 2 fuses on the board and 2 spades for the input power. Do you need to run power to both either side of the fuses or is just one side needed?The negative input power spades are wired together.One positive input power spade is for channels 1-8 (and the controller itself). The other is for channels 9-16. Assuming your power supply is big enough to power all the lights you will connect to the board, you should run both in parallel.It is technically possible to use a separate power supply for each channel (or each 3 channels if using RGB), but that's not usually recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivemewilder Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 The negative input power spades are wired together.I keep learning! I did not know that. I have 2 pos and 2 neg coming from the power supply, 1 of each going to both sets of channels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flogger7 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 If you are going to run on one wire, make sure you aren't overloading it vs it specs to have all the load on one wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 And for anyone reading this who doesn't already know, "L" is black, "N" is white, and Ground is green.My ground is only green if I water it enough.. if not.. it becomes brown! :shock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ Hvasta Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 If you've got a spare or two PC power supply that works, this page has got good tips how to make it work for your bench or DC card.http://www.scary-terry.com/atxps/atxps.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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