Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

LED string lengths - vs use


htebault

Recommended Posts

eurbani wrote:

LORisAwesome wrote:
The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips.


Binder clips? I didn't see that in the photos. Looks like L bracket (maybe that is just on the work bench).

This looks like a great idea, but I can't figure how you attached it to the roof.

I'm not sure what to call them. The L brackets (to use your term) came in 3 foot sections. I cut them into the small parts that you see there. The hard part was drilling a hole in each end of the conduit so that they were both at the same angle.

If you look at the third photo, you can see the L bracket. My original plan didn't work, and I had to bolt a piece on top of the L bracket. The binder clips go under the shingle at the edge of the roof and over that added on piece.

I'll try to mock up something and take a photo to illustrate.

Jerry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LORisAwesome wrote:

I also bought the C9 stringers and C9 retro bulbs from CDI.

I took it one step further. I made a framework of conduit for my roof outline and attached the C9 stringers to it. The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips. At every joint in the conduit there is male and female vampire plugs to make the electrical connections.

When I put it up and take it down, I attach lengths of 6-10 feet at a time instead of clipping individual sockets. Since I use four colors in my display, this is a great time saver.

Before I made the framework, I was on the roof for 5 hours or more attaching bulbs. By the time I finished I was extremely sore and could hardly move.

I could post photos if anyone is interested...

Jerry
Do you have pics?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

mackdave wrote:

LORisAwesome wrote:
I also bought the C9 stringers and C9 retro bulbs from CDI.

I took it one step further. I made a framework of conduit for my roof outline and attached the C9 stringers to it. The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips. At every joint in the conduit there is male and female vampire plugs to make the electrical connections.

When I put it up and take it down, I attach lengths of 6-10 feet at a time instead of clipping individual sockets. Since I use four colors in my display, this is a great time saver.

Before I made the framework, I was on the roof for 5 hours or more attaching bulbs. By the time I finished I was extremely sore and could hardly move.

I could post photos if anyone is interested...

Jerry
Do you have pics?

Sorry found pics.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is how I fasten them to the roof. I used a legal pad to simulate the shingles, but the principal is the same.

I have only 1 binder clip attached, I normally use four per section.

This is the second season that I have used these, so far no problems.




Attached files 311239=17012-IMGP0346_2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used 4" x 4" plastic eaves trough ... split them in half with a Drimmel tool and then drilled 3/4" holes. Then joined the two pieces back together.

End result .. all you see is the C9 retro bulbs. Two strands of wires completely hidden.

Pics here ... http://www.pbase.com/dgeall/windows

I also used the same eaves trough differently to sit on horizontal eaves of the house ... http://www.pbase.com/dgeall/eaves

End look ... http://www.pbase.com/dgeall/install


Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...