Guest guest Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 I have one 16 channel LOR controller box that has been working up until now, but tonight, I had music but no lights. I opened the box and the red LED light was not lit, but I had power to my system. I turned the power off and back on, rebooted my system, checked my connections but still no red LED light. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Did you check your fuses on the LOR board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Ditto, Check fuses first. * Note they should be replaced with a Ceramic fuse, not straight glass ones. *Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Fuses look fine, but we will replace them first thing this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 With out using a multimeter there would more than likely be no visible means of knowing if the fuse is good or not.Others have mentioned that Radio Shack stocks these fuses.Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Cmoore's right. You can only check with a meter as they dont show when they are blown being ceramic.And DONT FORGET to turn the power off before removing the fuses ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 cmoore wrote: With out using a multimeter there would more than likely be no visible means of knowing if the fuse is good or not.Others have mentioned that Radio Shack stocks these fuses.ChuckHome Depot in the electrical section has Microwave Oven 15 amp ceramic fuses. These are what you want. These are truely designed for 120 volts, the glass are 15 amp 12 volt for cars and the glass ones are actually more likely to blow at about 14 amps 120 volts where the ceramics may actually allow you 15.5 or 16 amps before blowing. Most fuses and circuit breakers are actually "heat" triggered rather truely blowing on a precise threshold. This means many of us do get away with momentary over ampings on breakers and fuses without blowing them, mostly by using short bursts of overcurrent and then allow cool down "dark periods" within songs. Sort of watching your duty/rest cycles like you do with DMX lighting which has heat accumulation issues as well. I am glad no one is advocating using 20 amp fuses where 15 amps is the UL requirement. There was talk of this a couple years ago and this was a concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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