RGBW LED's

[Guest guest]

Okay, this is what I'm thinking, most RGBW LED's usually operate off of around 4.5-5vdc from what I've seen and read on most of them.

So my idea is to take a full wave bridge rectifier to filter the 120VAC input to 120VDC output. The idea is to create my own string of 24 RGBW LEDS in series at 5vdc each this would equal the 120vdc output from the rectifier circuit.

Where I keep seeming to come into the problem with this is how to control each color from the standard LOR CTB16PC controllers plug outlets, where as I'd want to control this with 4 channels (RGBW) or 3 channels if RGB type LED's.

I can get the main power going to the rectifier circuit, which then goes to the common anode {+} side of the RGB/W leads that would all be tied together inside the LED housing. Getting the negative side to be seperate for each color is where I keep running into the problem.

I'd like to stay away from a DC board and operate these with a standard LOR CTB16PC controller. It's been a LONG time since I've been in the electronics/electrical field and I just can't seem to think of a solution to make this work, that is, if there is one.

I'm hoping someone here may have an idea or solution to what I'm wanting to do here. Or is this just not possible?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, answers or diagrams on how to accomplish this.

BTW: The reason I posted this in the "Newbies" section is I've come across some posts asking almost the same thing using pre-made CCR's or other RGB/W LED items and figure everyone could benefit from the answer to this, again, providing this could be accomplished.

[scubado]

Orv, It would be best to follow along in the RGB threads using the DMX or LOR DC boards using the ribbons or pixel ribbons. I've done the homemade route and the ribbons are so much better. It's making my head spin too, so hang in there, you're not the only one.

[Guest guest]

scubado wrote:

Orv, It would be best to follow along in the RGB threads using the DMX or LOR DC boards using the ribbons or pixel ribbons. I've done the homemade route and the ribbons are so much better. It's making my head spin too, so hang in there, you're not the only one.

Well it's I have a lot of LED's just lying around to play with and a lot of old light strings that I can use for the project. This was basically an experimental idea from the start.

Was just seeing if there may have been a way to build a circuit that the standard ~AC~ LOR Controllers, like the CTB16PC could control a homebrewed RGB/W LED string directly from their channel plugs.

I do plan on buying, hopefully the CCB's when LOR finally has them, not too sure I want the CCR, never have liked those "film" type devices as most are too fragile for my liking.

[Steven]

If you go down to the component (individual LED chip) level, then you may be able to separate the common anodes. Otherwise, there is absolutely no way to put the individual colors in series. You could abandon all but one color, and put that color in series, but that's probably not what you want.

There is also a safety issue in that the wire (its insulation specifically) connecting the 4.5v LEDs is not rated for 120v.

I'd like to stay away from a DC board and operate these with a standard LOR CTB16PC controller.

It may be time to re-think your stance. The CMB-16 is not that expensive. You can get a 12-volt power supply pretty cheap, or you can even use batteries and make a power-fail-proof display element. They are easy to hook up, just connect the power supply, lights, and network cable. You don't need to worry about GFCI trips. What's wrong with DC?

[Guest guest]

Steven wrote:

If you go down to the component (individual LED chip) level, then you may be able to separate the common anodes. Otherwise, there is absolutely no way to put the individual colors in series. You could abandon all but one color, and put that color in series, but that's probably not what you want.

There is also a safety issue in that the wire (its insulation specifically) connecting the 4.5v LEDs is not rated for 120v.

I'd like to stay away from a DC board and operate these with a standard LOR CTB16PC controller.

It may be time to re-think your stance. The CMB-16 is not that expensive. You can get a 12-volt power supply pretty cheap, or you can even use batteries and make a power-fail-proof display element. They are easy to hook up, just connect the power supply, lights, and network cable. You don't need to worry about GFCI trips. What's wrong with DC?

The wire I'd be using is rated for 120VAC, no problem there.

The reason I was trying to experiment with something to see if they could be powered AC direct was due to I have a lot of various type LED's in my "junk box" so to speak. I bought quite a few of the RGB, might be RGBW type LED's. I'd have to pull them out of storage to be certain which I have.

Nothing wrong with DC, matter of fact they *would be DC*, only not 12VDC, but 120V "DC", hence why the FWB is the first item in the circuit. But it seems they would have to be split in a different way to do what I was thinking of doing with them, that was trying to run them off 3 or 4 channels on an LOR CTB16PC AC Controller.

But since each channel would require 2 wires and the way the RGB/W LEDs are set up, I just don't see that being an easy thing to do, if it could even be done.

That's where I ran into the problem. I've got basically 5 wires, Common Anode +, then the R -, B-, G- and/or W -, where I can wire it so that I can get one color via the 2 wires from the CTB16PC controller, I don't think it wise or possible to run + side to where it shares all 4 channels one one side of the plug with the - side of the LED's on each channel individually. And I sure don't want to damage a CTB16PC controller trying something like that unless there was a way to isolate the + side from each channel and I just don't see any real feasible way of doing that.

I am acutally planning on buying 2 or 3 of the LOR DC Boards to experiment with sometime in 2012. Just wish they came with their own power supply and already installed in a LOR Case. But I'll be looking at HD or Lowes for a box to install each power supply and DC Card in individually when I finally purchase them.

BTW: I would only use "rechargable batteries" providing I had a charging circuit built into the PS, that way, while AC power is available, the unit would run on the adaptable PS, if the power failed or went out, then the rechargable battery(ies) backup would take over until regular power was restored. This would trickle charge the batterery(ies) even during normal AC operation. Wonder if anyone has done anything like that?

[Steven]

Orville wrote:

I don't think it wise or possible to run + side to where it shares all 4 channels one one side of the plug with the - side of the LED's on each channel individually.

If the RGBW LEDs were 120VDC, then yes, it would be possible, using a single diode per channel (half-wave). You could connect the common anode (+) to neutral, then the hot for each channel from the controller would go through a diode, then to the (-) side.

The problem is that you still couldn't put multiple bulbs in series.