colrowe Posted September 24, 2011 Posted September 24, 2011 Hi there, here is my first attempt at using LOR to drive a 24v relay. I had a lot of problems with the computer locking up. I found that if I only used 100% when programming and placed a small bulb (12w nightlight) in line with the 240v feed it stopped the locking up (been told its to do with a collapse of the coil that messes with the usb.Here is a clip of the skull, comments please. This is my first year with LOR and I am learning loads.Colin (UK)
Ken Benedict Posted September 24, 2011 Posted September 24, 2011 I found that with the relays and solenoids, full on and full off don't work as smooth as they should. Try making a down-ramp that lasts one fifth to one tenth of a second from a full on value. That took care of the solenoids and you should have the same results from the relays.Watching your video, the ON seems ok, but the OFF is noisy and clunky.I had 24vdc solenoids hitting chimes. If I did full on for 1/10 second followed by a quick off, the chime had a double-hit, where it came back and struck the solenoid before the solenoid had time to retract. Changing this to a 1/10 second downramp fixed the problem.Let me know what your results are with the relays.I was using the LOR DC controller card with a 24vdc power supply.Also had to super-glue a small felt button on the back of the plunger to make it really quiet so people could hear the chimes. Worked well.
metallus2000 Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Generally whichever board you are using has a screwtap that can adjust the mouth pressure...check out cowalicious to see what I mean. Your skull is snapping too hard on the jaw. Watch the video on product videos tab.http://www.cowlacious.com/assembled-scary-terry-talking-skull/I know its not the lor board, but there should be a way to adjust on the servodog board. I just ordered one, so I'll let you know if I figure it out.Ken
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