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Lor CTB16 D kit help


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I built my last kit today and am having a problem with channels 5,6,7,8 not lighting up.

I looked for bridged solder joints and there are none. I also taged all the solder joints with the iron to see if there was any cold solder joints and that didn't help either. I then checked the nuetrals on the strip and they all worked but I still can't get 5,6,7,8 to work?

What could knock out a grid like that in a row? Bad resister,triac?

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did you make sure that the white opto's were in the right direction? i had this problem too then i looked more carefully and some of the "F" 's were facing the wrong direction

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Yep
all of the dots on the left side pointing down. On the right pointing up.

kingsislandtechservices wrote:

did you make sure that the white opto's were in the right direction? i had this problem too then i looked more carefully and some of the "F" 's were facing the wrong direction
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Have you checked to make sure the resistors near the triacs are all 220 Ohms (red-red-brown) and that no 330 Ohms (orange-orange-brown) got mixed up since they are provided for 240 V use?

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Greenmeanie do you have an osciloscope or a DMM, if so try making sure that you are getting the correct voltages as inputs to your optoisolators, if you are not getting the correct signals there then the problem is somewhere on the digital side, if not then you might have a bad optoisolator or a bad triac.

If it is on the digital side my guess it is in the 74 series logic part on that side becuase you don't get the problem on the other side of the board.

Let me know if this helps.

Robogeek

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Just checked all resisters are red red brown.

Yves wrote:

Have you checked to make sure the resistors near the triacs are all 220 Ohms (red-red-brown) and that no 330 Ohms (orange-orange-brown) got mixed up since they are provided for 240 V use?
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I have a DMM and checked the resisters they are fine.

What setting would I use to check the OPTO's?



robogeek wrote:

Greenmeanie do you have an osciloscope or a DMM, if so try making sure that you are getting the correct voltages as inputs to your optoisolators, if you are not getting the correct signals there then the problem is somewhere on the digital side, if not then you might have a bad optoisolator or a bad triac.

If it is on the digital side my guess it is in the 74 series logic part on that side becuase you don't get the problem on the other side of the board.

Let me know if this helps.

Robogeek
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greenmeanie wrote:

I have a DMM and checked the resisters they are fine.

What setting would I use to check the OPTO's?


If you were just checking the Optos you can use Diode mode on the input side. this would be done with the board off. This checks the input diode of the optoisolator. It should give you a diode drop of about 2 volts if it shows nothing swap your probes, if it still shows nothing then the input LED in the optoisolator is gone.

If you were checking operation of the digital area you would turn on a channel, lets say Channel 8 and then check for about a 2 volts across the input of the opto if there is voltage then the digital side is working correctly, ie. the opto is atleast getting the command to turn on the triac. The DMM should be on DC voltage for this test.

If the Digital side is verified then it is something on either the output of the opto (the opto output is dead) or the triac itself is dead. its probably not the resistor, 1 you just verified them 2 they don't fail too often.

If there is no voltage coming from the digital side then the 74ACT273B Chip is probably the culprit.

Let me know what happens
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Dan knew right away what I did LOL

I had two of the network resisters mixed up. Thats what I get for trying to break my building record LOL.

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