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Posted

Im just setting up a rainbor brain to test out my rainbow flood for the first time. I have setup my LOR to DMX network. The LOR hardware utilityrecognizes my LOR IDMX1000 but I cannot get it to light by first flood.

Does anyone have some basic steps to use to set the Rainbow brain to work with the LOR hardware utility? This is my only DMX device at the moment so it should not be to complicated.

Posted

First off, what is the ID set to on the iDMX? Let me give you my test setup and see if you can replicate it....

My iDMX is set to unit 10. My Rainbow Brain is set to unit 1. I get this by putting all the DIP switches to the ON position and pushing switch 1 back off. This sets the address to unit 1. In the Hardware Utility, open the Console. Set the unit ID to unit 10. (It doesn't matter if it is an LOR controller of DMX device). Channels 1 to 15 are than used for the individual colors.

Also, just be aware that the start address of the Brain is only read at start up. So, if you set the address with the Brain powered up, turn off the power and turn it back on.

Greg

Posted

Brain is set to 1. Im assuming IDMX is set to 10. THats the first signature it autodetected

HWcontroller.jpg

Going into console I treid to manually set the intensity

HWconsole.jpg

Posted

I have not used DMX on LOR, but have a couple of suggestions of things to try. Firstly, you have selected "iDMX1000 - LOR", which I believe is for LOR units on an iDMX network. I think you need "iDMX1000 - DMX" to access DMX devices. Finally, in "Virtual controller" mode (the only one available at the moment), I believe the unit wll use addresses 10 through to 1F, so make sure you don't have any connected LOR controllers in this range.

Regards,

Alan.

Posted

Ceniam,

What type of adapter or wiring setup do you have coming out of the iDMX? Also, select "Standard Controller" under the Controller Type section. I don't think it makes a difference, but I would try that out.

Posted

Hmmm...I am not sure if that adapter is correct. I don't know what pair it puts the DMX signal out too. You need an adapter that goes to pins 1 and 2.

Posted

I don't know if this helps?

Attached files 207757=11539-LOR-PINOUT.JPG

Posted

The iDMX100 has a "polarity" switch. It should be set for "normal" polarity, which is with the slider towards the "out" connector. This switch changes the polarity of the data pair - pins 2 & 3 on the XLR connector.

Regards,

Alan.

Posted

Ive been doing all sorts of testing and reading through all the manuals.

The Status light on my IDMX-1000 is solid but the data light is always blinking. Should the data light be solid when the LOR hardware utility is sending a command? According the the manual it should.

[align=left]Data LED[/align]
[align=left]Blinks once for every 40 DMX packets transmitted if[/align]
[align=left]no DMX input detected on the DMX In connector.[/align]
[align=left]Steady on when a DMX input signal is being passed[/align]
through to the DMX output.



Is the blinking light dependant on what the output device is connected to the idmx-1000 or would the light be solid despide what is plugged into the DMX output?

Posted

My data light blinks all the time and in no particular pattern. I wouldn't say it is as fast as 40 DMX packets, but it is faster than when the status light blinks.

Let's take the Brain out of the question here....

Is the green light lit on the Brain? I honestly think that the issue is the adapter you have on iDMX. Remember, the DMX signal for the Brain goes through pins 1 and 2, not 4 or 5. If you want, send me an email directly and we can discuss this further. greg@christmasonmanor.com

Posted

Ponddude help me trouble shoot the problem offline. It was the cable going from the IDMX to the brain.

Thank you for everyone who provided assistance to help trouble shoot the issue.

Posted

Glad you got it working and enjoy the Brain!!;)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

So is the adapter from LOR wired wrong for the brain?

That is the exact adapter I have in my cart. Have not bought it yet though.

Posted

No, this was a DIY adapter a workmate wired for me. It was not correct so i rewired it and its now operational.

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