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Controller keeps changing its ID


timjahn

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I have a 10 year old 1602w controller that keeps changing its ID on my 2 controller network randomly. This causes half my lights to go out, since the show expects a certain ID for that controller. The problem controller is the 2nd controller on the network, connected to the first controller with a phone line (originally ethernet cable but as part of my trouble shooting, I switched it to a phone cord).

Sometimes the second controller isn't recognized at all.

LOR support mentioned my network is probably having issues. I'm using the old serial adapter from 10 years ago and an ethernet cord that runs directly from the computer to the first controller. The ethernet cord is a max of 150 feet long or so, and at each end, there is some exposed wire between the end of the cord and the wrapping.

Any ideas as to what's causing the issues with the second controller? I've considered replacing the controller itself, getting the newer USB adapter, or replacing the main ethernet cord altogether. Is there a special kind of ethernet cord I should be using?

Any help is appreciated!

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Are you really sure that it's changing IDs or just losing network connectivity?  When it acts up, does the status LED remain solid or does it start flashing?  Since the first controller in the network remains working, I would not suspect your 10 year old serial to RS-485 adapter.  I am agreeing with LOR that it's likely a network issue.  Although having a little wire exposed by itself is not a problem, it does indicate a poor cable, and without the connector clamped to the cable jacket, there is almost certainly mechanical strain on the wire connection to the connector.  I would be replacing the network cable or if you have the ability to do so yourself, cut off the connectors and terminate them properly with new connectors.

BTW, a suggestion that you update your profile with your location.  It can be helpful to know where people are from a technical issue (for example, you would know simply by seeing where I am located that snow is not an issue), or a local person coming over to help, and also from letting people know that there is someone with a show they may want to visit if nearby.

 

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It's also possible that the dials on the controller is giving you fits. I had this issue years ago, and a replacement if the dials fixed this issue.

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@k6ccc - I updated my profile with my location, great suggestion! I think trying a new cable is probably a good idea. I have a regular old ethernet cable - is there any special kind I should have?

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32 minutes ago, timjahn said:

I updated my profile with my location, great suggestion! I think trying a new cable is probably a good idea. I have a regular old ethernet cable - is there any special kind I should have?

Plain old straight through Cat-5 cable.  BTW, one of the things I tend to harp on here is to get out of the habit of calling it an ethernet cable.  Yes, both RS-485 and ethernet use the same type of cable, but if you (or other people reading your posts) start using E1.31 which DOES run on ethernet, it creates confusion.  I can't tell you how many times some newbee here has asked if they can plug their LOR network into an ethernet switch.  By referring to is as a Cat-5 cable, it helps to avoid that confusion.  For what it's worth, I do run three LOR networks plus E1.31, and I use a different color cable for the E1.31 LAN - purple for RS-485 (with color marking tape to identify which LOR network), green for E1.31, and blue for my "normal" home LAN.

 

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I ordered a new Cat5 cable and it'll be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping swapping that cable out will solve the issue.

Tonight I noticed the sequences were all off and not synchronized to the music the way I had programmed them! The lights would even keep going after music ended. When I used the LOR software to disable shows, the lights kept going! I had to physically unplug each controller.

Really hoping the new cat5 cable fixes this.

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If lights are going *after* the show is disabled, and you have one of the 1602 series of controllers, I'd wonder if you have some sort of standalone sequence on there. Doubt it, since you didn't mention the lights coming on after you plugged it back in (but I'm assuming you did, even though you didn't mention it.)

 

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I haven't plugged them back in yet but I have no idea how a standalone show would get on the controller since I've never done anything like that. It doesn't have an SD card slot or anything.

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1602's have stand-alone ability, though it's animation only. You would have loaded it via the hardware utility at some point.

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I removed the old cat5 cord and replaced it with a brand new one.

When I plugged the controllers back in, the lights from the one controller were still going all by themselves. I opened the Hardware Utility and shut all the lights off. That worked.

When I ran the show, same issue. The lights were all out of sequence. Then the problem controller couldn't be located by the Hardware Utility.

I opened the problem controller after and the led status light inside is steady and red. Is that expected?

So clearly the cat5 cable wasn't the issue. Is the problem controller just busted??

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Connect only that controller and go back to the hardware utility.

See if it can find the unit. If it can, click the "Stand Alone" button. Then click the "Delete" button (if it's not grayed out) near the bottom of the HWU window. 

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@Don - I connected just that controller and after setting the Max ID to as high as it could go, the hardware utility recognized that controller at some random ID that it shouldn't have been (and that I didn't set it to). The Delete button was greyed out in the "Stand Alone" section of the HWU.

This random ID setting happens all the time with this controller. I have no idea why!

This is so frustrating. I have no idea why this controller is rarely recognized by the HWU and why when it is, it has some random incorrect ID.

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Really sounds like those dials are loose and causing the problem.

I honestly don't think you're going to find a fix for it. The dials need to be replaced.

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Yet again, the problem controller is not able to be recognized by the hardware utility and the lights from that controller are off during the show. The led status light in that controller is solid though. This seems to me like the controller itself has to be busted. LOR support insists that this is a network issue but I fail to see how this isn't the hardware in the controller itself failing or being broken in some way.

Has anybody ever used the LOR emergency replacement program? How long does it take for a new controller to get to you? We're only a week out from Christmas, so I'm hoping they can overnight?

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1 hour ago, timjahn said:

Yet again, the problem controller is not able to be recognized by the hardware utility and the lights from that controller are off during the show. The led status light in that controller is solid though. This seems to me like the controller itself has to be busted. LOR support insists that this is a network issue but I fail to see how this isn't the hardware in the controller itself failing or being broken in some way.

Has anybody ever used the LOR emergency replacement program? How long does it take for a new controller to get to you? We're only a week out from Christmas, so I'm hoping they can overnight?

Put in a support ticket, and ask if they can overnight. I'll bet they can...

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Broken address wheels would be a network problem.

The problem with diagnosing network problems - and I am sure we told you this in your ticket, is that an issue can manifest itself anywhere, by anything.  We rely on you to do the troubleshooting.  Once you have isolated the issue down to a single controller with a new cable all on it's own, we would agree that the communications issue is being caused by the controller.  But until then, we can only offer hints and suggestions on where to look for the issue.  Remember, we always try to SAVE you money.   When 99.9% of network problems are outside of the hardware, we will continue to point you at troubleshooting.  However, that is always up to you.  Say the magic words that you believe you have done everything,. that it is the hardware and that you want to send it in for repair, and we will start the RMA/Emergency replacement.

Yes, you can ask for an emergency replacement.  Your 1602 is out of warranty, so you would need to pay 60% of the list price of a new one, as well as the shipping charges.  Overnight shipping on one of those is going to be expensive (as in $100-$150 or possibly more).  You then send your bad one in (you pay to ship that as well).  As long as we receive it within 10 days you are all set.  If not, we charge the credit card the other 40% of the cost.

We can also try to repair that one.  The cost would be no more than $25 + shipping both ways.  

Since you already have a ticket open, just let us know and we will help.

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I appreciate you guys trying to save us money and having us troubleshoot on our end first. Totally makes sense. And I've responded to that ticket.

i guess I just feel like now that the problem controller is rarely recognized with a brand new data cable and when it is, it's some random ID, it has to be the hardware. I've tried all the other network troubleshooting I was told to try.

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22 hours ago, timjahn said:

I appreciate you guys trying to save us money and having us troubleshoot on our end first. Totally makes sense. And I've responded to that ticket.

i guess I just feel like now that the problem controller is rarely recognized with a brand new data cable and when it is, it's some random ID, it has to be the hardware. I've tried all the other network troubleshooting I was told to try.

No problem.  In your ticket say the magic words and we'll start the process.

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