plasmadrive Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Which Wireless Bridge did you use, and where the universes full up, (you used all 4K channels)?Wireless Router - $45http://www.bestbuy.c...outer&cp=1&lp=1 Wireless Bridge - $50http://www.bestbuy.c...ridge&cp=1&lp=1 I got them from Best Buy. Those links may be old. I did not use the full channel count in the universes. I used a total of 3300 channels over the bridge. No visible lag or skips of any kind. One qualifier however, I was only about 30' physically from one side to the other on the bridge during normal operation. I was able to run all the way from the street (about 70' from my laptop) during testing and setup without a hiccup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Those links were still perfectly good. I ordered the pair. Will let you know how they work out. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Those links were still perfectly good. I ordered the pair. Will let you know how they work out. Thanks!Cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks for the real world experiences. I know at some point you might start having problems with the delay going through each switch. But thanks for letting us know that you did not see any problem with going through 2 switch. A reading of various specs for switches shows the latency to be on the order of a few microseconds. This is way too fast for the human eye to notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 So getting back from my trip, I found the wireless bridge and router waiting for me. Today, I attempted to connect having the router first connected the output of the switch which is fed from my show computer. The bridge indicated it was connected but I couldn't get to the P12S/X card. Trying everything and nothing worked, I finally went back to how I thought it should have gone in the first place. I connected the bridge to the switch output, then connected the router to the P12S/X card. Used the auto-sync mode or whatever it was called and sure enough, they talked immediately and I was able to connect to the P12S/X and using xLights, I was able to command the card/pixels using E1.31 without any problem. So, I'm now wireless!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 I want to add to this, after getting the bridge set up and connected to the router, it all worked great.....except.....I was seeing lots of blinky, flashy when running xLights to test everything out which was not smooth transitions and flowing light displays. I tried, struggled and so on, trying to figure out what was wrong. Since I'm using a ECH-P12S card, I asked for help from Ed at Joshua Systems and he and someone else there were trading emails all day with me, trying to understand it too. I contacted Ed at SanDevices in preparation to buy their E682 card but he wrote back and pegged the problem I was seeing instantly. My mistake!!!! I was trying to run xLights to communicate with the controller at the same time the LOR control panel was running, which in-turn was commanding E1.31 communication too...so two different processes were communicating at the same time to one controller. Since I'm using xLights just to test with and possible acquire some of their fantastic patterns for use in my LOR sequencing, I won't be running xLights for the show itself. So, anyone who reads this, don't make my mistakes and I'm very, very happy with Ed at SanDevices who offered me completely unbiased technical help which was really cool of him. I'm willing to bet that his controller is very good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 His controllers are good.. I used two of the 6804s for the Plasma Icicles. He was a big help to me as well. Glad you see you got it up and running.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 Another question…. After looking at my new setup, it’s probably best if I place several power supplies at different locations instead of running it from a single location. Originally I was going to install a 20A or 30A PS inside an enclosure with the E6804 and inject power from the single source. But due to distance, don’t think that would be a good choice. Does the 6804 have an option to power the board from like a wal-wart but not send out +V power….just Ground and Data/Clock? I guess I could leave the +V disconnected on the output. Just seeing if there is an option? Or I could install a PS inside an enclosure with the 6804 and just use for the first set or closest pixels and inject power further down the line. I’ll just make sure the +V of different power sources don’t connect…that would be bad From your experiences….which way worked best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 If you are worried about too much line-loss, you could just run larger extension wires/cable to the injection points. My smart pixels, I'm only going about 10 feet and injecting power every 50 pixels but from the 24-channel DC controllers, some RGB strips will be about 50-60 foot maximum runs, so I'm going to use 16/4 weatherproof cable for each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 (edited) So I had time to test tonight and having a problem I can't figure out.Using a SanDevice 6804 connecting to 12V 2811 strips. I built the controller with a power supply to power the 1st strip on all 4 legs. Then I'm going to inject power between the 2nd and 3rd strip, 4th and 5th, ect with a different power supply. I know I'm not suppose to connect multi power supplies together so after the 1st strip, I made an adapter to pass through the data and ground only. No power or positive. When I inject the power between the 2 strips or between 2nd and 3rd strip, the positive and ground are going both directions. Towards the controller and away from the controller. Again, I have that adapter between the 1st and 2nd strip so the data and ground pass through, but no positive. Here is my problem....The lights on the strip work great when powered from the controller, but the lights shimmers that are powers injected. Meaning from the 2nd strip to the last. It doesn't like the power injection. I know it's not the cables or the injecting power supplies. I tested them by connecting them to the first strip. They work perfect. Power level is good too....12v going in. But when used as injecting....the sequence will run, but it shimmers. Maybe I'm missing something or not connecting right. Edited October 2, 2014 by CLD Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Kevin when you use multiple power supply you connect all the ground wires together only not the positives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Kevin when you use multiple power supply you connect all the ground wires together only not the positivesDennis,That's what I did. I connected only the data and ground through....no positive. Ground is required or the lights go crazy. But I was determine to figure it out and I think I did. I changed my injecting power supply to a small non-fan type and no shimmering. Seems the fan is causing noise on the line. The fan type works fine when connecting directly to the controller but not injecting. Assuming the controller somehow filters the noise otherwise I don't know why. Problem #82....replace all injecting power supplies with non-fan type. Ever get to the point where your troubleshooting a problem for like 3 hrs...throwing and kicking stuff, tell yourself that you give up.... but only walk away for a min to go right back in it? But once you figure it out...you feel like super good...yet super dumb at the same time that it was a simple fix. I'm hungry (missed diner)...it's only midnight. Time for a slice of pizza and a very cold beer....or two :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Kevin glad you figured it out. good to know about the fan . know how good you feel I'm a retired maint machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggySS Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 I ran into that same issue when injecting power but it sound like I was lucky to just have a handful of the 40 watt waterproof ones. Never would have thought a fan would cause issue. I know the frustration you speak of. I am the type that can't sleep until I figure it out but then when I finally throw in the towel and move onto something else the light bulb comes on! By then though I have torn most everything apart so its a chore to get it all back in one piece. Never as pretty either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazydave Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 What power supplies are you using ? Chinese/meanwell/other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazydave Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) I'm not running ANY power from the e682 so all my strips are injected. Using meanwell p/s. I haven't noticed any flickering when fan kicks on. All grounds from the controller/powers supplies/ strips are all connected to a common point Edited October 24, 2014 by Crazydave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 I think I had a couple "weird" ones. I say that because they caused flicker on only white....colors were perfect. And only 2 of the 4 I was using caused it. But using the same ps that goes to board first and then the strips....no problem. Just for injecting. Those 2 which I happen to pick out of the rest gave me troubles. The other 2 were fine. I didn't want to chance it and didn't have time to test so I just replaced them all with no fan type. The ps where waaaaay over kill anyways. All my grounds from the controller, through the strips and ps are all connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Messer Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hate to say this.. Last year I had a flicker on a j1sys card when the fan kicked on in the case. I found that I had not tightened the ground up for that string on the card. Dang simple things will make you pull your hair out. The next flicker I got was water in a water proof connector. Cleaned it out and now that all have zip lock baggies folded over them. No issues after that. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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