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Robert Burton

Anyone had this issue before? Wrong part sent...now not working?

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Going through the trouble shooting steps...and really not coming up with anything.

They sent a 470ohm resistor (for R17) instead of a 470k ohm resistor. I did a "ticket" on it. They sent me a email back and said it should be a 470k resistor, not a 470ohm. I got a 470k ohm resistor. Finished up...and now nothing. I have built SEVERAL of these things before. Again, going through the steps and am at the 18 pin header with very little if any voltage.

The LED light is BARELY visibly lit up. The LOR hardware software does not recognize it.

Anyone else ran into this?
Robert

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[align=left]From the installation instructions for the CTB16PC page 13.[/align]
[align=left] R17 470KΩ yellow-violet-yellow
Warning: Be sure this is the 470KΩ resistor
An error here WILL fry the micro-processor[/align]
Looks like you may have installed the 470K and the 470 in the wrongs places.

R30 4.7K yellow-violet-red
R5 470Ω yellow-violet-brown

Chuck

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Nope. It is the correct one for each.
Have not taken things apart to look at traces yet. Gives me heartburn to do that after getting all the dongles wired nicely, heat sink compound on, etc.

Have built many a ham radio repeater on this work bench. Not saying that I missed a trace or have a cold solder joint. We all make mistakes. When I spoke with Dan early on he mentioned there were some changes on the board over time. For example c1 shows a polarized cap, but yet...c1 that was sent is not a polarized cap.

I can't be the only one that got the wrong resistor.

Will be taking board apart this weekend and check things before sending it back.

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Keep us informed so that others may learn.

Just as a note I have now soldered 13 kits. My process is to inventory all parts against the parts list before I start. I ID all resistors and put the numbers on the tags the best I can. Not saying you did anything wrong. But with an inventory is the time to find parts missing/wrong. Not sure if this is part of your procedures but may be worth start to do.

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That is what I did as well;

From: Light-O-Rama Help Desk
Subject: [#668876] wrong resistors are being shipped with PC controllers
To: xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Monday, October 24, 2011, 2:39 PM

Robert Burton,

A Light-O-Rama help desk staff member has replied to your request, #668876 with the following response:

Thank you.. It is supposed to be a 470K.

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How about posting some high res pictures so others can take a look?

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Robert Burton wrote:

Have not taken things apart to look at traces yet. Gives me heartburn to do that after getting all the dongles wired nicely, heat sink compound on, etc.

When I do occasionally have to take a controller out of the case, one of the things I do is to use some of those wire marker booklets to number each dongel as I unplug it from the board. Then it is much easier to get it all plugged back together for reassembly.

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On the dim status LED. Have you checked that R5 is the 470 Ohm resistor?

For not communicating, have you double checked that the one oddball resistor network is the one running sideways, and that all 4 running vertically are identical?

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Well.....
After building...4 or more...I've lost count. R5 was the winner, or loser. And also, there is the FOUND 470k resistor. Finding I need my glasses more and more.

So what to take away from this besides rely on your glasses more?.... For future searches on DIM LED LIGHT ON THE BOARD...
Check R5. Make sure you haven't put your 470k ohm resistor there ;-)

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I just built my first kit in years (Ramsey). I can't read color codes for [Foul Language Used] any more, even with a magnifying glass. I double checked every resistor value with an ohmmeter.

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rwertz wrote:

I just built my first kit in years (Ramsey). I can't read color codes for **** any more, even with a magnifying glass. I double checked every resistor value with an ohmmeter.

I know the color code, just can't see it anymore, so I always double check with a DVM

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